CalG

Why would any service provider remove the plastic engine covers to inspect the conditions of the rubber parts beneath while performing an oil change which is "mostly" an under car assignment.

Perhaps you have the covers removed from your vehicle and observing the hoses would be simple, or you may have requested to "check it over". But then with the covers removed, you must also be aware of the failed pieces. (And you did)

Would you pay them the hour's labor gladly, to just look around? And then put the price of replacement on an oil change.
The service provider just can not win!
Does it need to be someone elses fault?

CalG

A8AWD

Agreed. They would never see it while changing the oil.

Ali A8

and please do not think I am blaming anyone. Its an old car and parts break down over time however the reason I removed the plastics was I saw that everthing in that area was covered in oil when all I did was pop the hood. You are correct I cannot expect them to check everthing but it was pretty obvious something under there was leaking which is why I removed it. They may have been too busy to notice the mess while refilling the oil or I am sure they would have mentioned it to me.

CalG

Standing up for the common man.

Nothing on you for sure.

We are in this thing together!

CalG

DutchDoofus

It's a normal practice to take a look around and report any things found. Only takes 5 minutes.

Squeeto

Can you post it in the FAQ section? I need to do this soon to.

ricoblanco

<b>Tools Needed:</b>

10mm &amp; 13mm metric sockets
14mm &amp; two 17mm cresent wrenches
5mm allen head socket or key (for engine covers)
Phillips &amp; flathead screwdrivers
Rags

<b>Parts Needed:</b>

Intake manifold gaskets - <b>part # 077-129-717 N</b>; $35.26 for a pair at <a href="http://www.autohausaz.com">autohausaz.com</a>.

Breather hoses (rear):
<b>Drivers side - 077-103-221-D
Passenger side - 077-103-221-K</b>
$94.64 ea. at dealer - ouch!, $67.21 ea. at <a href="http://www.genuineaudiparts.com">genuineaudiparts.com</a>.

8 rubber o-rings (for fuel injectors) - #10 (11/16" O.D. x 1/2" I.D. x 3/32") - Available at Home Depot for $2 for a pack of ten

2 hose clamps

Optional: 3mm ID cloth braided vacuum hose (~4ft.)


<b>Procedure:</b>

Remove the plastic engine covers if they aren't already.

Remove passenger side breather hose from intake hose leading from the air box to the throttle body. Remove intake hose and set aside.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/139731/im_bh.jpg">

Disconnect small coolant hose from expansion tank and carefully set aside. You will need to remove a black plastic cover, which is held in place with one phillips screw, next to the expansion tank to remove hose.

Disconnect the brown and green knock sensor connectors as shown.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/139731/im_ks_2.jpg">


<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/139731/im_1.jpg">

Disconnect the orange vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator.

Disconnect all eight connectors for the fuel injectors.

Put a rag underneath the inlet and outlet lines to the fuel rail. Disconnect the lines using two 17mm cresent wrenches on the fuel outlet line (with the fuel pressure regulator), and a 14mm and a 17mm for the inlet line.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/139731/im_dis.jpg">

Disconnect connector for the intake manifold change-over valve (on front of manifold) and the fuel injector air control valve connector nearby.

Remove the vacuum lines from the fuel injector air control valve.

Remove large EVAP hose and small cloth braided hose from front of manifold.

Intake manifold change-over valve:

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Intakemanifoldchange-over.gif">



Fuel injector air control valve:

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Fuelinjectoraircontrolvalve.gif">

Remove front breather hose.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/139731/im_fbh.jpg">

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/139731/im_tps.jpg">

Disconnect the connector for the thottle position sensor (TPS) and the air intake temperature sensor (on lower left of throttle body looking directly at it).

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/139731/im_isv.jpg">

Disconnect connector from the idle stabilization valve (ISV).

Disconnect the vacuum hose from the top of the throttle body.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/139731/im_ccd.jpg">

Disconnect the vacuum line from cruise control diaphragm. Remove the cruise control diaphragm from bracket using a 13mm socket wrench to remove the nut.

Remove the cruise control diaphragm arm from the throttle body by carefully removing the small C-clip next to the ball socket. Remove the arm and put the C-clip back onto the ball socket so it won't get lost. Set the CC diapragm assembly aside.

Remove the accelerator pedal cable from the throttle body. This is similar to the CC diaphragm arm as it has a C-clip holding a ball socket on. Remove the cable from the holder on the fuel rail as shown:

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/139731/im_accelerator_cable.jpg">

If you have an air compressor, it would be a good idea to blow the dirt and grime out of the areas where the holes in the block will be exposed.

Now remove the fuel rail by first removing the four 10mm bolts on top. Then, start by gently pulling on the four corners with even pressure Then pull up on the middle of both sides. Work your way around the rail, nice and even. Slow and steady wins the race. When the rail comes out, set aside on the work bench on top of a towel with the injectors facing up. Remember, the O-rings should be replaced on the injectors if they are removed. When you put the new O-rings on the injectors, use a thin layer of motor oil on the outer part of the O-rings prior to reconnecting the fuel rail to the IM.
* You may be able to leave the rail in place, but I'm pretty sure I had to remove it to access the IM bolts.

Disconnect blue connector as shown.

<img src="http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh156/ricoblanco/Blueconnector.jpg">

Now remove the four 13mm bolts and four 13mm nuts from the intake manifold.

Now the fun part. Gently (well, maybe not *that* gently) pull up on the manifold. It will take a little finessing, but it will come loose.

At this point, I lifted the manifold just over the posts rising from the block, brought it about an inch towards me, and then slightly tilted the rear of the manifold up. Doing this will give you access to the vacuum lines connecting to the rear of the manifold. Remove the lines from the positions shown.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/139731/im_vac.jpg">

Lift the manifold up and out of the engine bay and set on the workbench.

Shove some rags into the eight intake holes on the block so nothing falls in.

<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/139731/im_bh_final.jpg">

Now you have unrestricted access to the rear breather hoses!

While you're in there, you may want to replace the valley pan gasket, as you can see mine was leaking.

You must replace the intake manifold gaskets.

One last thing to do (if not done already), is to replace the 3mm ID cloth braided vacuum hoses on the front of the manifold. We all know how much fun *those* are when they start leaking!

Install is the reverse of removal.

<b>Torque Specs</b>
<b>Intake manifold nut &amp; bolt</b>

25Nm (snug)

<b>Fuel injector rail bolt</b>

10Nm (don't go crazy with the wrench!)

<b>Fuel inlet &amp; outlet lines</b>

25Nm

CalG

DD

It might take more than five minutes to remove the plastic covers from the engine in order to inspect the hoses. The right side bit needs the air pipe from the MAR/air filter box removed before it will come away.

True it's only 8 little screws and a few hose clamps, but I would not do it for someone who has only asked for an oil change.

Directed requests to "look around" would get attention surely.

I'm off the soap box now ;-)

CalG

Squeeto

Did you replace intake manifold gaskets when you did this?

ricoblanco

I also managed to break the little coolant hose connector on the large hose in the front of the engine (whoops-$$$). The gaskets were ~$38 IIRC at autohausaz.com. One other thing you're supposed to replace is the o-rings for the fuel injectors. I wouldn't order them from autohausaz though as they have the wrong size. I have to go out to the garage to find what size they are supposed to be. They can be picked up at the hardware store.