Galco

Planning to tackle the front and rear brakes this weekend and was wondering if there is a need for any special tools, i.e. 14MM hex, etc. that I should round up before hand?

I already have the VAG-Com set up for retracting the rear electronic parking brake.

Thanks in advance.

Mister Bally

IIRC, just common hand tools. I used a Harbor Freight caliper compressor tool for the dual piston fronts. However, In the old days I used a C-Clamp and an old pad to "evenly" compress both pistons.

MP4.2+6.0

Front's use just a 7 mm standard allen wrench. Best to get a 3/8 socket type rather than the simple L shaped allen wrench since it needs a bit of pressure. Just takes a screwdriver to pry out that pad retainer clip you see in the center of the caliper facing outward toward the wheel spokes.

Hardest thing I find often is separating the wire connector for the wear sensors at the bracket so you can unplug it without breaking the housing that stays with the car side of the plug. Trick is to push the small locking tang that is part of the connector down that fits into the bracket while turning the connector; I usually put a crescent wrench on that and turn gently. Needs a 90 degree rotation to get it out.

Like Mr. Bally says, be careful to use a block or something to apply pressure across both pistons. If you don't, it's a mess if you pop one piston out, and they come out forcefully and are made of aluminum that can get screwed up too. You can simply apply a C clamp against the old worn pad to cover both pistons at once.

In the rear, I think it's a 13mm two bolt attachment. Per the prior threads you should have the VAG COM and first retract the pads. Pretty cool when you see (hear) it happen just like clockwork.

Have some wire or tie straps handy to hold caliper as you fit new pads, clean stuff up, etc. Maybe 1-2 cans of spray brake cleaner for the job. Inspect all the suspension parts, tie rod ends, CV boots, etc. while you are at it, particularly at the rubber bushings and relevant ball joints.

Best to bleed the brakes after if you are up to that. Audi says to flush the fluid every two years, and it is part of the first four years maintenance. Ever since I have done that with several Audi's with lots of total miles and brake jobs I have never lost a hydraulic part since.

Also know that if your brake fluid reservoir is near full when you start, you really do need to take some fluid out or it will overflow given the size of the dual front pistons and the modest reservoir. I just use an old turkey baster to do it.

Mister Bally

<<<Have some wire or tie straps handy to hold caliper as you fit new pads, clean stuff up, etc.>>>

Right after WWII, my late dad worked in the parts department at Nash-Kelvinator in Detroit. He worked in the Kelvinator refrigerator department. He gave me a few partial rools of bailing wire that were used to bundle loose parts in/on skids before banding them up. I still use that wire to this day to hold loose brake calipers on any car i'm working on!

MP4.2+6.0

I have a few of those hand me down tools in my stuff from my late dad. Not top of the line of course, but it brings back smiles and memories.