A8CT

I didn't really notice this before, but now that I've put some miles on the car, I have the slow 1-2 shift off the line. Almost feels like a dead spot in the acceleration.

It sounds like this is fairly common issue that I believe can be resolved with the reflash. I can do the fluid drain and fill, I've done it a bunch of times on my D2's. Has anyone used the conventional fluid and then gotten the reflash done?

The TSB requires reflash to use blue fluid but not the other way around. On the 5 speeds ZF's, there were different coding options that would change the shift points in vag-com. Is this true for the D3? Car has 98k and otherwise shifts flawlessly. I think the idle might be a little rougher than it should be (no codes) so I'm thinking maybe a MAF and/or o2 sensor that's on the edge. I'm going to check those with measuring blocks and address that first.

MP4.2+6.0

1. Search archives. There was one post in past few years about a reflash only w/out fluid change.

2. If idle rough, also pursue other obvious stuff like cleaning up intake (Techron); plugs change (you are getting near next major service point); and even possible motor mount problem (which you can look at visually plus activate via VAG COM).

Might want to update your autosig too. It always just references a D2.

A8CT

1. I did see that but was hoping not to be number two though. Literally looks like one guy did it, I sent him a PM.

2. I just did TB, plugs, filters two weeks ago. Ran a bottle of Techron and did a 600 mile round trip last two days.

I had the front mount removed to do the belt and it looked fine. I do get the "Torque support" error every time but read to ignore that and there was even a TSB to install a capacitor to eliminate the code. Maybe it is actually bad though? On my D2(s), it was a similar feeling when the front mounts went bad but they were split in 1/2 which mine isn't.

I'm going to check the intake manifold bolts, clean the throttle body and then check the MAF and o2 sensor measuring blocks next. I did have an "Idle Air Temp sensor" code when I bought the car. I believe that's the MAF, I cleared the code and cleaned the wire and it hasn't come back.

JLM04A8L

If you check my previous posts the dealer did a reprogram when I complained about a hard shift between 2 and 3 gears....You noted a loss of power/acceleration which was not my case.

MP4.2+6.0

1. on the W12, I found what turned out to be a cracked torque support. Huge project to do on a W12, which was covered by CPO. Engine had a bit more roughness pre change (for a 12; still very smooth even relative to V8/4.2). Back to 12 cylinder really smooth since the change--which was also done at the same time as the 75K major tun [W12's have a 40K cycle; shorter than 4.2's].

2. on my C5, I'm pretty sure at least one mount is bad. It's a 2000 and I don't think much VAG COM data is stored for it, but I do know cycling it via the testing procedure that the solenoid is not clicking as it should. Meanwhile, motor has been feeling a bit rougher. not a lot, but a bit. I suspect a mount: 130K plus and 12 years so not a big surprise to me. Doesn't affect running, just a bit more vibration felt at idle through the wheel.

Separate thought, besides what you are thinking and have already done, if it's feeling a bit flat, have you looked at your intake linkage? Common 4.2 malady; see other recent post that has been going on for a while more for more info/data.

bmwm750

I am about to freshen the fluid and change the filter in my 06 A8, and have done a lot of research on the various fluids that were used in these cars and the software updates that were part of the TSB.

The TSB is attached to this post.

The blue fluid that often gets referenced is ZF LifeGuard 6+, or Audi G-055-162-A2. This fluid did not stay around very long, and was superseded to LifeGuard 8, which is Audi G-060-162-A2. This fluid is green. For reference, the original fluid was LifeGuard 6, which is Audi G-055-005-A2.

The TSB seems pretty clear that you cannot have the TSB done while keeping the old (LifeGuard 6) fluid.

Based on everything that I have found, you can intermix 6+ with 8, but neither of these should be combined with the original 6.

You can use VCDS to verify if your car ever had the software update done or not by referencing which software version you have (either "old" or "new"). If you have the "new" software, you can try an Adaptation Drive.

Now, what's interesting, is in my case, I have an 06 4.2 A8, with HKT trans code, yet I have software "0100," which is the "new" software for an GCF/ GNU trans code, whereas I should have "0110." Clearly, I don't have the "old" software, but it would appear to not be the correct "new" software. Of course, when I asked my dealer this, they just scratched their heads.

Either way, since I clearly don't have the "old" software, I am planning to use LifeGuard 8 fluid (buy it under the ZF product name, as it is 1/3 the price of the Audi branded fluid) and then do an Adaptation Drive.

Brozee

Let us know what part numbers and where and how much you get the fluid for. How many miles do you have on your 06 that you need a flush? Or are you getting the hoot? I wouldn't be changing it unless you were having issues..

If you won't need the software flash you can take it to any reputable trans shop to have it done, just bring your fluid.

BTW where did you locate what trans code you had? In vag-com under trans?

mishar

If you currently run Lifeguard6 (gold fluid) you can't change it for the green one just like that.

1. I think your software is for the existing fluid and as far as I know only dealer can upgrade it.

2. You can drain only about 6 liters so 3.5 will stay in there and it should not be mixed with the green fluid. In order to reach acceptable mix of old and new fluid you need to do reflash few times. People are talking about 36 liters of a new fluid what indicates 6 reflashes and a huge expense.

I've just finished ATF change (at least 6 liters change) using Lifeguard6. Old one was almost black and it even lost that ugly smell. New one is golden and smells like hell.

Brozee

At 80k miles mine was still very clean and clear. Only reason I had it changed was due to the hoot. Just don't see any reason to change it unless your experiencing problems. To each their own

mishar

I had a bit of hoot. That's why I changed it. I wouldn't just for fun.