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With that code, you have a bad O2 sensor. If it is in the heating circuit, those are the thicker wires to the O2, so it is probably not in the wiring on the other side of the connector where sometimes the smaller conductors are fragile. B4 S1 means bank 4, sensor 1. Bank four is the back side of the motor on the right side as you look at it under the hood--driver's side for North America or Continental Europe. S1 means a forward sensor (rather than one behind the converter. You can also try unplugging it and then plugging it back in in case it's the connector, but probably more likely is the sensor. The sensor won't particularly cause rough running usually (unless the MAF is also messed up), and the heater element has to do with getting it working faster when the car is cold.
Thanks for the help.
So the heating circuit is working when engine is cold only? and it is not needed when heated? My MIL turns on after a few Km after reset.
I think my shaking problems has to do with the throttle body now, all points at it and do you think only one hard screwed pin on the thottle body that spin around could case any problems? and that is why it is shaking?
So the heating circuit is working when engine is cold only? and it is not needed when heated? My MIL turns on after a few Km after reset.
I think my shaking problems has to do with the throttle body now, all points at it and do you think only one hard screwed pin on the thottle body that spin around could case any problems? and that is why it is shaking?
my shaking and fluttering needle was due to a bad MAF.
it can be from various reasons, but mine was MAF.
I unplugged it and drove and the issues went away.
$175 C$ for a Bosch MAF and all is good for now.
So the heating circuit is working when engine is cold only? and it is not needed when heated? My MIL turns on after a few Km after reset.
I think my shaking problems has to do with the throttle body now, all points at it and do you think only one hard screwed pin on the thottle body that spin around could case any problems? and that is why it is shaking?
Heating circuit is only to warm up O2 sensor when exhaust into which it is screwed is still cold. Once exhaust heats up--to like 900F and more--heating circuit is irrelevant. Probably mil turns on only later because some functions have a built in diagnostic. If it finds them out of whack during a self test, then it turn the light on. For example, vacuum leaks and secondary air injection usually take two cold hot cold cycles, cam sensors are checked when motor at operating temp but not under load, etc.
I don't know what you mean by "do you think only one hard screwed pin on the thottle body that spin around could case any problems? and that is why it is shaking?" Maybe post a picture and describe it more? If you mean the basic throttle body is not screwed down at the four or so bolt/screw points, then of course that will cause a huge vacuum leak and poor performance.
Heating circuit is only to warm up O2 sensor when exhaust into which it is screwed is still cold. Once exhaust heats up--to like 900F and more--heating circuit is irrelevant. Probably mil turns on only later because some functions have a built in diagnostic. If it finds them out of whack during a self test, then it turn the light on. For example, vacuum leaks and secondary air injection usually take two cold hot cold cycles, cam sensors are checked when motor at operating temp but not under load, etc.
Is there a way to look exactly what or why the MIL light gets on by connecting vcds? When i look at Engine 01, it says check ECU Engine II, When going there i only see oxygen sensor as a fault code, by deleting it, the MIL dissapears and reactivate after maybe 10 minutes. Is this mean that the MIL lamp is only on because of the oxygen sensor? because it turns off when erasing the oxygen sensor code, or is the computer automaticly turn off the MIL when clearing on the Engine groups?
I don't know what you mean by "do you think only one hard screwed pin on the thottle body that spin around could case any problems? and that is why it is shaking?" Maybe post a picture and describe it more? If you mean the basic throttle body is not screwed down at the four or so bolt/screw points, then of course that will cause a huge vacuum leak and poor performance.
Is this mean that the #11 Air distribution housing must be replaced? If i screw, it will turn, but to take the screw out i have to screw it out, it can not be taken out by just pull it out.
Is there a way to look exactly what or why the MIL light gets on by connecting vcds? When i look at Engine 01, it says check ECU Engine II, When going there i only see oxygen sensor as a fault code, by deleting it, the MIL dissapears and reactivate after maybe 10 minutes. Is this mean that the MIL lamp is only on because of the oxygen sensor? because it turns off when erasing the oxygen sensor code, or is the computer automaticly turn off the MIL when clearing on the Engine groups?
Is this mean that the #11 Air distribution housing must be replaced? If i screw, it will turn, but to take the screw out i have to screw it out, it can not be taken out by just pull it out.
Looks like two problems then:
Yes, if you clear codes and the O2 heating circuit one keeps coming back, to me that's pretty definitive to replace the sensor.
And yes, unfortunately you would need to replace the big manifold piece #11 if that screw is spinning and thus stripped out. And in turn, there is likely a vacuum leak in there as a result. If you are want to kludge it, you could try threading it for a slightly larger bolt. If you were in the USA, it might be a lot easier to find a bolt diameter just slightly larger in SAE than the metric. But, maybe more reasonably for a nice car, see if part #11 is on EBay. Replace seal #9 while you are at it, since it has probably gotten deformed some with the uneven torques.
Is this mean that the #11 Air distribution housing must be replaced? If i screw, it will turn, but to take the screw out i have to screw it out, it can not be taken out by just pull it out.
HeliCoil is your friend. Every serious hardware store has it. Comes with few inserts and tread cutting taps.
05-27-2015, 02:50 AM
