CMS062407

Well, I was in a parking lot, car turned off, lights turned off..but a couple of accessories plugged in...anywho, my wife came back from shopping, about 30 minutes after I shut the car off...and, the car wouldn't start back up..typical "fast clicking sound" you get when the battery is dead...

so, of course, I had to have someone gimme a jump start...that worked fine...auto windows didn't want to work for a few minutes and the only settings I lost was the clock..all presets and config data on MMI was untouched.

to my question---I am going to change the battery--anything special need to be done after I install the new battery? I read online about you have to reset the battery management module (or something of that nature). Now, I updated the MMI and lost my "battery level" section...does that make any difference?

Basically, i'm afraid that if I replace the battery--the car will still think the NEW battery is at the same battery % as the old one.


Car is a 2007 A8L, 4.2. 36k

I do NOT have a VAG-COM....I want one, quite badly, but can't see myself forking out $350 for something that should sell for $50.


This is the battery I suppose I will go with. Seems to have the best CCA out of all the other "big auto" shops.

Super Start Platinum 95RPLT - AGM Battery | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Panelhead

Car is a 2007 A8L, 4.2. 36k

I do NOT have a VAG-COM....I want one, quite badly, but can't see myself forking out $350 for something that should sell for $50.


This is the battery I suppose I will go with. Seems to have the best CCA out of all the other "big auto" shops[/QUOTE]

I already have a replacement was mine spotted. H8-AFM. I little lower output but can be 100.00 cheaper.
Use the cost difference to outset getting a Ross-Tech. The VAG-COM will pay for itself. I never hear of anyone regretting dropping the 350.00 on one.
The battery should recalibrate over time. Having a Ross-Tech will speed this up. Add one the serial number if using a VAG-COM.

MP4.2+6.0

Now widely available in many brands at many stores. Two sizes were fitted; a later one like yours may have the larger. Both sizes fit the space. If your battery is original, by seven year regardless of miles it could go at any time--and probably is right now. Your failure description is classic for it. BTW, after a battery swap (or recharge), yes about only thing besides battery coding is resetting clock (or just date sometimes) and running windows down and up a full cycle to get the auto-up/down and pinch protection features recalibrated.

Yes, you should have a VAG-COM/VCDS if you own a modern sophisticated Audi and don't want to pay thru nose for others to do work--or have a substandard ride over time as things come up you can't easily DIY. I don't agree with you at all on your $50 statement. Tool is light years beyond the P code crap out there that usually reads no more than engine codes, not whole car. If you want help from folks like me or others, no codes handicaps us and after about 2-3 P code posts, I for one move on. It's really a software license with forever updates you are buying usable on any modern Audi or VW, and someone has to pay for it. The comparison is professional mechanics systems that cost thousands, not pedestrian readers or software rip off cables. You can always resell anyway if you exit Audi/VW.

Meantime, folks report the system gradually figures out you have a new battery even without the recoding. Logical, since it also learns over time about reduced capacity of an existing battery. If you have VAG-COM in future you will also be able to restore battery meter and to recode for new battery.

CMS062407

Thanks for the reply. I will end up getting a VAG-COM, probably more recently than later (brakes are starting to squeal too, going to need one to release brake in rear)...I just don't like the price point. The software is free, though, correct? I believe its called VCDS?

back to battery----if I replace the battery today, and don't get a VAG-COM for another 2-4 weeks--then decide to recalibrate the battery when its 2-4 weeks old, will that be fine? or should it be re-calibrated as soon as you replace it? basically, if I get a VAG-COM, I will re-enable the battery meter in my MMI (went away after upgrade) and maybe it shouldn't say 100% if the battery is actually 2-4 weeks old....although, 2-4 weeks is basically still a brand new battery, considering they can last for quite a few years..7 in my case.


oh, ya, i called a local shop around here..and asked them how much it would be to just reset my battery if I replace...$150!! That is just a stupid amount of money, that I would be willing to bet would maybe take 2 minutes to do! I'd imagine its just like any other change in VCDS, change a couple numbers in specific fields, and your good to go.

MP4.2+6.0

VAG-COM/VCDS are the same product sold by Ross-Tech. Some of us veterans use the term interchangeably. I for one don't pay much attention to VAG's (Volkswagen Auto Group's) childish chasing good businesses around that don't interfere with theirs, and for a mark (VAG) that is kind of irrelevant here--that's the technical "why" of the name change most likely. Yes, the product is physically a cable, which essentially is a dongle that is the key to being able to use the software you can download free from their site to any (or many) PC's, get updates, and use forever.

Yes, I don't think coding in a few weeks will matter at all. You are basically just triggering system to think of it as a "new battery," (plus to use the given A-H/CCA rating set for a given battery choice if you actually pick a different one listed). It will typically say 100% shortly when or shortly after you drive car for any decent shape battery. Typical battery life median is probably 4-5 years, with many with Audis reporting longer lives since it is much better protected from weather extremes and engine heat by being in trunk area.

CMS062407

okay, just so I know that I do the right thing...

just download this? Version 14.10.0 Ross-Tech: VCDS: Downloads: Which One? and install to C:\Ross-Tech\VCDS\ or a similar location (not program files)

and this is the actual dongle I have to buy? HEX-USB+CAN Interface

Ross-Tech Store: VCDS License with HEX-USB+CAN Unlimted VIN (All VAG)

MP4.2+6.0

The HEX + CAN with the USB connector is the norm, and that is their current software rev. Once you activate and start using it, it will also know (if your laptop has internet access) when they release an update and then prompt you to run it.

As a Mac user myself, realize you do need at least some old throwaway PC laptop to run it (putting aside a VM). I do so on a now very old XP, which then allows me to run the Bentley manual software that was never updated to run on any OS after XP.

CMS062407

Okay, Thanks. Dang, I guess I will just go ahead and friggin buy one, right now.

Do you know how-to reset the battery once I do replace it? also, is there some sort of "how-to for beginners with VCDS"??? Because, I have about no knowledge about the program...aside from the few videos I watched on youtube (on how to re-enable instrument cluster and battery level after MMI software upgrade)...still, i don't know what he is ACTUALLY doing. but, it seems simple enough to punch in a few numbers, hit test, and save..

MP4.2+6.0

Beyond the videos and their on line materials + Wiki, I think it is more just coming up the learning curve.

If all you do is read codes and then clear them, essentially no chance you will break anything. Just exploring there will give you some experience and comfort as you open and close modules and look all around.

If you get into re coding, be careful on what you do. The battery module where you would first be is pretty tame though. The rear brakes have been documented, and are in Bentley. A few can be scary at first, like the ABS one that instantly throws up beeps and warnings into the instruments until you exit the module. The new Audis (D4's, Q5's, current era A4, A5, A6, A7, etc.) use coding that sometimes can be more convoluted and that varies from one body to another, but the D3's and others from the mid millennium are usually more cross platform friendly. If you search around a bit, you can find the common mods like lowering and raising windows (or sunroof) with remote and some other things, plus the cool stuff like the suspension default ride height tweak.

CMS062407

lol, goodness. Ross-Tech sure get you on shipping charges, too. Cheapest available is $22 to DFW.