A8nightmare

Does anyone know the proper procedure to check and change the transmission oil on an 05 A8L. Also what type of oil should be used.

mishar

Audi doesn’t recommend transmission oil change.

klm187

Audi didn't recommend changing fluid in the D2 A8 either, but we all know what happened in that instance. If I were you, I would check with an independent Audi mechanic that you trust. In fact I will be doing that on Friday when I ask my mechanic for the once over on my D2 A8. I am trying to rationalize "fixing my D2" versus buying a newer D3.

Hilden

Always a debate if good or not but check this thread and try searching for more posts on the subject and you might find more info

https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho...ansmission+oil

I know Audi will tell you it's a waste but my thinking it that it can't be negative at least, assuming that it's properly done. I had it done on my C5 S6 but skipped on the A8 so far.

I guess though it's the same procedure as on the D2 so you need to have a certain temp on the oil etc so it takes some fiddling to get everything out and to ensure you get the correct level when filling new oil.

MP4.2+6.0

that way they can keep their estimated cost of maintenance down to play in the JD Power type reporting games among other things. And of course if anything goes wrong (as it invariably will on some number of trannies w/ or w/out a fluid change), presumably they don't want to get into debates about underlying cause of tranny replacement that is very expensive at dealer prices. Fluid changes are most likely about tranny longevity at over 100K miles, long after Audi washes its hands of warranty issues.

On D2 seems like a no brainer to change the fluid, given that the fluid itself is sold with an expiration date (smaller point), ... and the maker of the tranny itself (ZF) recommends it (the more obvious flag). Owning the C5 4.2 with the identical tranny to the D2 other than gearing, what comes out of it when changed makes the case. More so on the first change than later ones when you find some light oily sludge in the pan from what may be the break in on the clutches.

D3 on the other hand, so far I am holding off for several reasons:

1) W12's automatically have the latest hot stuff blue fluid that is extortionately expensive--a hundred or two $ for fluid, gasket and filter for a C5 4.2/D2 is one thing, but when it gets to be closer to a thousand $ even for DIY with the blue gold, it causes one pause on cost of periodic maintenance vs. just fixing it if it goes south. That maintenance cost analysis doesn't apply so much though if using the more conventional fluid in a 4.2, or doing a one time (problem driven) upgrade to the expensive blue stuff to solve the "hoot" noise issue or some such.

2) Car is CPO'ed for another 15 months so not touching fluid--the point about not introducing any confusion during warranty if something were to go wrong independently.

3) Lesser than others, but the six speed doesn't seem to have developed the somewhat checkered reputation the 5 speed from the D2 did over time. And ZF did quietly update the five speed design in late 2000 to beef up internals. I haven't casually come across anything noting an obvious parts update relating to reliability issues on the six speed. Have read that they did a more general update that now offers very fast shift times (1/10 second) among other things. If I recall, Jag is still sticking w/ the 6 speed (putting aside the AWD takeoff variant)--which was used in the big Audi's, BMW's and Jags historically. Obviously Audi is moving on the 8 speed ZF's for its new vehicles. Likewise personal experience in my cars is 6 speed performs very smoothly, while 5 speed less so.

MP4.2+6.0

in vehicle ownership, you might look at my reply below for more compare and contrast.

Also on the D3, I have heard maybe the filter is integrated into a (composite?) drain pan that then drives up the replacement parts cost there too; I know on my C5 what started as close to $200 in dealer only parts for filter and gasket drifted to a $40-50 Reinz type gasket set over time, and that's with a conventional steel pan. Not sure though since for the reasons in the other post, I haven't touched the D3 yet.

I do plan to do the rear diff gear fluid for sure, given a TSB basically says the older black painted ones used in W12's and S8's (which I have; later ones are silver) are prone to noise issues and are then updated to to the newer rev if dealer has to change the rear diff out. Gear oil is cheap compared to that assembly too!

Brozee

I had it done on my A8, but only because I was experiencing an issue where I felt a small shudder and heard a small noise when slamming on the gas. If you have no problems then don't change it; it's not worth the cost. My fluid at 80k still looked very clean, I just needed the new fluid to fix the issue. So don't bother if your car is okay.

carterleeds

hi brozee,

i have that same noise like im pressing the horn when i accelreate, why does this happen?

can you advise what fluid i need for my 4.2 petrol please...?

and how to change it like just a quick overview... as i will be taking it down to the garage to do, and if i have a bit of knowledge then i can point them in the right direction. also they have ramps and i just have a floor, and by looking at fluid change procedure id rather pay £30 to get the fluid change.

thanks in advance.

mishar

You won't get it properly done for £30. May be for £100. Anyways check the other tread. You need 6 liters of ZF LifeGuard 6 (gold), filter and pan gasket.

carterleeds

cool thanks. did not realise it involved a filter and pan gasket i had a m3 for the summer 6speed manual, it was just a quick 2 bolts, fluid out in and bobs ur uncle lol.

and what do you mean by properly?