dvs_dave

The solenoids should be full open when they have zero voltage/unplugged/coil removed. What happens in that scenario? Any flow?

If you’re sure the valves and pump are working, and there’s no flow when manually operating the valves, then you have blockages in the heater cores, or there’s still an airlock in the system somewhere causing your problems. Did you follow the shop manual procedure on how to bleed the system, or was it guesswork?

kristiann

Well I did think that how will the coolant get to the solenoid motor when I flushed the system and when I took the solenoid motor out and cleaned it. I did not have the manual to see if there were any special ways Audi needs it to be done. So yeah - "guesswork" in that case is how I did it. But I must mention - yesterday when I installed the motor back then it did concern me how the coolant gets to the empty solenoidmotor to get the swirls wet and pumping. Kinda felt like it was just turning air around its flaps...

If someone has a manual where the specific bleeding is described - please so share. I shall search it myself but dont know how long that might take

kristiann

If this is what you ment by manual bleeding - then this equipment I do not have.



Any other “home methods”?

kristiann

Hi again. So I did the bleeding showd in the manual like that:


+ I rose the nose 10cm/3,94inch
+ I rose the expqnsion tank





When squeezing the hoses - the coolant movement is seen in the expansion tank. Also when the valve-motor hoses are squeezes - the coolant movement is shown in the tank





well… nothing has changed. No warm coolant get to the valve solenoids what so ever.

dvs_dave

I still think you have bad heater valves. It’s the only thing that consistently explains your continuing problems with no flow downstream of the heater valve block.

kristiann

So I went and took another pump and thought for a fast installation. Well the car did not think the same as me

bonnet cable broke… cant even pull it open

kristiann

Gd dmn there is no room to cut the outer membrane off to get the the metal cable to pull the bonnet open!
is there another way to open the bonnet?

kristiann

Ok, yeah, the car doesnt like me. I was able to cut the outer membrane off with metal scissors, but the cable just came out with threads... Did not get it open. Looks like the right side of the locking mechanism is under some kind of pressure. Left side opens easy, right side is problematic.

Anyways, I did get to order the new oe cable for the cabin side. Hope this is enough. I assume the rest is fine cause they seem to pull when I move cable so... But it seems I have to postpone all work. MAYBE I get the oe part tomorrow, maybe on monday. On monday I have the LPG uninstall and new install so I figured I might get my hands on it while the other guy does the lpg part. But... I might have to go to work instead so.. many questions here right now.

D3 bonnet cable

Ordered the nr13 cable. Looks like I have to get it from the wheel arch? Wheel off, inner fender off and then see the cable? My guess. We'll see...

dvs_dave

Bummer. Lubing the hood release cables and latches is an often overlooked preventative maintenance task.

You might be lucky and be able to get to it via the wheel well. If not, then the only option is a reciprocating saw to the latch strikes (parts 24 on diagram).

kristiann

All short: cable replaced, heater no good

First off - everyone check your bonnet cables! If you see cracks - replace them before they Make you replace them - and that will not be very fun

D3 bonnet cable
As it looks - i will be replacing the other cables asap

Some pics of the cable funI had.
1. I was able to pull the cable out of the fender arch. Innet fenders off and then fingers to the coolant tank - there is one cable to be found.



2. If the cable is good to use - problem solved. My problem was that one side of the bonnet cable had been disconnected from the deviding point. Thats why it dis not open. The plastic cover where the deviding stuff is put into gets old in time and plastik brakes. Thats what happened to mine









3. the cable in the engine side is well hidden - best install - remove the wiper stuff

4. Inside, the lever. Remove the splinter, remove the lever. Install to the wall side plastic the cables end. That will fix the movement and position of the cable. Now install the cable to the lever, install back and put the splint on



The heater.
ao I got another heater valve. It had already been tried to be fixed. 1 coolant hose separators was installed the wrong way. All caps of the valve were pushing out silicone. Both valves were full of corrosion.





So I made some more test with the ones I had. Tested sime currents with different caps. Found no difference.
Tested my own ones with blowing air straight to the valve. All seemed to work. Just to clear that the valve lets more than just air through - i out the garden hose straight up to the valves. And they worked beautifully. All valves work very well.
Took a pic just for you after the test, just added the hose to an inlet




Heater problem still not solved. Feels like low current or toooo much air in the valve itself that cannot get out

at the monent all installed back, no heat, day after tomorrow lpg un- and reinstall