lgball

OK, so I've got a pink HID lamp in my passenger side. I want to replace both so they are the same color. I'm sure the dealer will want $250+ per side to replace them, so I'm thinking DIY. I've searched the forum, and all the Bentley scans that were posted before are gone. Anyone feel like hookin a brother up and "loaning" me those pages from the Bentley? Is this something I even want to try? I'm moderatley good with mechanical stuff and have the tools, but these German cars scare hell out of me.

Thanks!

Larry

K9COP

Hey Larry, search for my threads. There was one on hightlamp bulb change that I did, that is a good step by step. It will walk you through all you need to do. It is a royal pain in the *** for sure, but if you know one end of a spanner from the other end of a wrench, you'll be OK. PM if you get stuck, and I'll supply mobile number so we can chat if needs be.

K9

p.s. will try and find link to my post...

K9COP

To get to the back of the pass side, I split the intake at the air flow meter hose, and removed the whole airbox, leaving the AFM plugged in.

Drivers' side, loosen and tie up out of the way the coolant tank and the PAS tank too, just gives you the room you need to get in the back there, but still very fiddly.

The ballast is held, essentially, in the rear covers of the back of the head light, so easy to replace, just plug and play. There is a small screw that holds the ballast in, i.e. that you need to remove before 'unclipping' the cover. The ignitors are just screw on/off on the back of the bulbs, and are a bit fiddly as the cable that goes to them has to be put in once it's attached back on there (I think. It has a kind of 'cam' thing that releases the cable from the ignitor once it's turned)

Only four bolts hold the headlight housing in. I just used masking tape all around the fender/bumper aperture, loosened the front fender bolt, and eased the light out far enough to get to the backs of them.

PM me if you get stuck.

K9

K9COP

"Remove the two OUTER torx screws on the headlamp top mount, and the bottom two mounting screws as well. That allows you to slide the lamp slightly outwards to give you more room. You can, if you really have to, remove the lamp forwards (once disconnected) without further dis-assembly. If you remove the front most fender mounting bolt, you can ease the lamp out, BUT you don't have to change the bulbs.

Passenger side, I removed the whole airbox but left the air flow meter connected electrically. It's easier to split it (air flow meter) at the rubber hose than it is to reattach the two screws holding the air flow meter to the airbox once it's back together (one is under the hose).

Driver's side, yes, I removed the coolant tank and bungee'd it aside, and I also loosened the power steering reservoir and bracket to get some 'wiggle room'.

Once you get the areas behind the lights clear, both sides, unclip the rear cover, that carries the ballast, and unscrew (bayonet fit, like a light bulb) the igniter (silver square object) from the back of the bulb. It's labelled which way to unscrew it on the back of the unit. The cable will come off the igniter after you unscrew it, and you have to reattach it as you put the igniter back on after you've swapped the bulbs.

My bulbs were held in with the regular spring clips.

TAKE NOTE THOUGH.

I've swapped both bulbs, and the drivers bulb is STILL not as bright as the passenger light, so now I'm thinking ballast or igniter is the trouble.

Take your time, buy Ebay bulbs, and never force anything. They weren't forced in, nothing needs to be forced out, or back in again."


There you go. Begin!

K9

Edd W

It's not that bad - 30 mins for the first one than about 15 to 20 for the second....

Jack up front, wheels off, liner out, remove lamp housing rear cover, ballast off, bulb out - reverse procedure & done.

The only bit I cannot recall if it necessaary is whether the air filter housings have to be opened to improve access - I was fitting new filters at the same time so I had them out anyway.

Edd W

Easier from underneath....

lgball

Thanks for all the replies, guys. I'm a little uncomfortable with EBay lamps. Anyone have a reliable source for the OEMs? Also, is the standard OEM color temp 4300K?

Thanks again for all the advice.

Larry

Brozee

4300k yes. Either go with the Philips d2s standard or the newer in my opinion better osram bulbs. Same output if not wider but a bit crisper white, less yellow. Fwiw there has been many people on here who got the cheaper or eBay bulbs and got the exact same results as OEM without spending $180 on a set of bulbs compared to $20. To each their own.

Edd W

I bought genuine Philips on Ebay here in the UK, I think both were about £25 inc postage etc...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-AUDI-SE...item2c6585a9d4

lgball

UPDATE:

Bought the lamp on Amazon for $51 shipped. I didn't trust the EBay sellers - too many counterfeits on there. Dealer charged me $75 to put it in so I got the job done for less than the cost of the lamp alone from the dealership, and I didn't have to swap it out in a sweltering garage or run the risk of breaking something I'd have to pay big bucks to fix.

I'm happy.

LGB