Intermittent starting problem?
10-10-2016, 05:53 PM
#41
AudiWorld Senior Member
You likely have a bad starter/starter solenoid. One unit. Verify with a proper diagnostic scan (read the sticky at the top of the D3 thread for details) If you have stored faults related to "stuck starter or open starter circuit", time to replace. Service manual is mandatory (IMO) as the subframe has to be dropped to access and you'll need to know installation procedure for the new torque to limit subframe bolts which are also mandatory.
10-10-2016, 06:29 PM
#42
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You likely have a bad starter/starter solenoid. One unit. Verify with a proper diagnostic scan (read the sticky at the top of the D3 thread for details) If you have stored faults related to "stuck starter or open starter circuit", time to replace. Service manual is mandatory (IMO) as the subframe has to be dropped to access and you'll need to know installation procedure for the new torque to limit subframe bolts which are also mandatory.
The starter sounds like a heck of a job...
10-10-2016, 06:37 PM
#43
AudiWorld Senior Member
Yeah, as some of us old folks (farts) know when a starter motor gets hot it will not crank over, the Armature is burnt and gets heat saturated and therefore no longer works when hot, once it cools it can start, but that won't last for long.
10-10-2016, 08:08 PM
#44
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10-14-2016, 09:10 PM
#45
Let's back this up a bit because there are two things that happen to start:
1. The starter solenoid or coil/piston must pull in first. The clearances are tight and corrosion will prevent movement of the plunger, because the initial pull-in force is quite low.
2. Once the plunger moves, it closes the "mains" (that's what the solenoid does, it's a relay) straight to +BATT connect, and the starter motor cranks over the engine.
So that delay, or EPC code that fires, or VCDS "Starter jammed....." fault is most likely due to #1 imo, unless you have huge miles or the starter has been abused (like flooded with water, overheated, etc).
You see my boat starter I've BTDT over the years and rebuilt a few as well. This year I rescued a few balky starters on the lake by lubricant injection (LPS#2) in a few key places. #1 I attack the solenoid and #2 I inject into the back end of the main body of the starter to ward off rust, in the marine application.
So I was under the dang A8 yesterday to look at the starter, way up there buried. But I did see some signs of moisture on the solenoid casing. Anyway with limited access I just doused what I could - because the starters are porous, they are not water-tight in the least. Maybe I'll get lucky.
So far it's been firing up like a champion but then the outside temps have been warm.
It's too bad there was not better access like on our inboard ski boats.
1. The starter solenoid or coil/piston must pull in first. The clearances are tight and corrosion will prevent movement of the plunger, because the initial pull-in force is quite low.
2. Once the plunger moves, it closes the "mains" (that's what the solenoid does, it's a relay) straight to +BATT connect, and the starter motor cranks over the engine.
So that delay, or EPC code that fires, or VCDS "Starter jammed....." fault is most likely due to #1 imo, unless you have huge miles or the starter has been abused (like flooded with water, overheated, etc).
You see my boat starter I've BTDT over the years and rebuilt a few as well. This year I rescued a few balky starters on the lake by lubricant injection (LPS#2) in a few key places. #1 I attack the solenoid and #2 I inject into the back end of the main body of the starter to ward off rust, in the marine application.
So I was under the dang A8 yesterday to look at the starter, way up there buried. But I did see some signs of moisture on the solenoid casing. Anyway with limited access I just doused what I could - because the starters are porous, they are not water-tight in the least. Maybe I'll get lucky.
So far it's been firing up like a champion but then the outside temps have been warm.
It's too bad there was not better access like on our inboard ski boats.
10-15-2016, 05:28 AM
#46
AudiWorld Senior Member
Let's back this up a bit because there are two things that happen to start:
1. The starter solenoid or coil/piston must pull in first. The clearances are tight and corrosion will prevent movement of the plunger, because the initial pull-in force is quite low.
2. Once the plunger moves, it closes the "mains" (that's what the solenoid does, it's a relay) straight to +BATT connect, and the starter motor cranks over the engine.
So that delay, or EPC code that fires, or VCDS "Starter jammed....." fault is most likely due to #1 imo, unless you have huge miles or the starter has been abused (like flooded with water, overheated, etc).
You see my boat starter I've BTDT over the years and rebuilt a few as well. This year I rescued a few balky starters on the lake by lubricant injection (LPS#2) in a few key places. #1 I attack the solenoid and #2 I inject into the back end of the main body of the starter to ward off rust, in the marine application.
1. The starter solenoid or coil/piston must pull in first. The clearances are tight and corrosion will prevent movement of the plunger, because the initial pull-in force is quite low.
2. Once the plunger moves, it closes the "mains" (that's what the solenoid does, it's a relay) straight to +BATT connect, and the starter motor cranks over the engine.
So that delay, or EPC code that fires, or VCDS "Starter jammed....." fault is most likely due to #1 imo, unless you have huge miles or the starter has been abused (like flooded with water, overheated, etc).
You see my boat starter I've BTDT over the years and rebuilt a few as well. This year I rescued a few balky starters on the lake by lubricant injection (LPS#2) in a few key places. #1 I attack the solenoid and #2 I inject into the back end of the main body of the starter to ward off rust, in the marine application.
I do not follow what you are getting at, YES it could be the solenoid or starter motor, but as they are matched together as a unit and if one of them is failing when hot, you would NOT only replace one or the other on a 2005 11 year old starter, NOR would you spray a lubricant that will now collect any fine particles and turn into goop, that is of course if there were an actual access area for the lubricant to get into the solenoid, which there is not, how ever the starter motor does have a small hole at the end, BUT again I would NOT spray anything in it, the fact is being that the job of replacing the starter/ solenoid is an entailed job, you WOULD replace the package as this is not an easy access boat motor job....
Last edited by Giovanni Giovino 6.0+6.0TT; 10-17-2016 at 11:18 PM.
10-17-2016, 02:32 PM
#47
I don't have time to give basic lessons on here in electrics and mechanical, other than notes where I can.
A starter will do a gazillion miles, on the brushes that is. These cars fire instantaneously there is very little stress, unless you're an idiot or it's a flood car.
Internal corrosion appears to be the issue with the solenoid
and can be for the starter itself.
Solenoid is failing under cold
Starters (armature) fail hot, certainly did for my boat. If it's failing or turning slow hot, then it needs to come apart or get the rebuilt
But for the solenoid, I propose you can drill a tiny access hole and lube the piston it should be good.
Quiz - know where that hold should be drilled?
A starter will do a gazillion miles, on the brushes that is. These cars fire instantaneously there is very little stress, unless you're an idiot or it's a flood car.
Internal corrosion appears to be the issue with the solenoid
and can be for the starter itself.
Solenoid is failing under cold
Starters (armature) fail hot, certainly did for my boat. If it's failing or turning slow hot, then it needs to come apart or get the rebuilt
But for the solenoid, I propose you can drill a tiny access hole and lube the piston it should be good.
Quiz - know where that hold should be drilled?
10-17-2016, 02:48 PM
#48
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I don't have time to give basic lessons on here in electrics and mechanical, other than notes where I can.
A starter will do a gazillion miles, on the brushes that is. These cars fire instantaneously there is very little stress, unless you're an idiot or it's a flood car.
Internal corrosion appears to be the issue with the solenoid
and can be for the starter itself.
Solenoid is failing under cold
Starters (armature) fail hot, certainly did for my boat. If it's failing or turning slow hot, then it needs to come apart or get the rebuilt
But for the solenoid, I propose you can drill a tiny access hole and lube the piston it should be good.
Quiz - know where that hold should be drilled?
A starter will do a gazillion miles, on the brushes that is. These cars fire instantaneously there is very little stress, unless you're an idiot or it's a flood car.
Internal corrosion appears to be the issue with the solenoid
and can be for the starter itself.
Solenoid is failing under cold
Starters (armature) fail hot, certainly did for my boat. If it's failing or turning slow hot, then it needs to come apart or get the rebuilt
But for the solenoid, I propose you can drill a tiny access hole and lube the piston it should be good.
Quiz - know where that hold should be drilled?
10-17-2016, 11:26 PM
#50
AudiWorld Senior Member
Now if you would like me to tell you where you can drill your hole......
