Intermittent starting problem?
#61
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UPDATE: So, my CEL came back on, and the car refused to start when warm again on a couple occasions. Luckily, my Ross-Tech Cable and laptop came in (I bought it from a forum member here--thanks!), and I was able to pull the fault codes and clear the DTC's. Once I did that, the car starts normally again... Back to scratching my head... did I just spend close to $1000 on an unnecessary starter swap? Lol--I hope I get smarter so I don't have to work harder... I'm going to read-up on the VCDS and clear the faults properly. I'm hoping not to have to throw parts at my car...
#62
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I've got great news to report - Cold temps last night, 7am got out there, fired first click, no delay/o codes. P-brake works the blazes too. I am going to do the right side as well for prevention.
Rhino - I think you may have to replace your horn. Just kidding! Bad news is $1000 bones down the drain tho, that bites. Yes your starter is unnecessary.
Post your fault codes. What is that noise you said you heard when you attempt to start?
Temperature increase can do two things - It can open tolerances for electrical contacts/connectors, increase resistance, decrease clearances of mechanical (depends on mech), or cause chips or electronics to fail, sometimes under the stress of old componentry (caps) or say dirty power.
It may also be time related (electrically). For example, turn you key on and leave the ignition ON the same duration you would normally run your engine. Then attempt to start.
You have to analyze the systems and eliminate what you can here.
Rhino - I think you may have to replace your horn. Just kidding! Bad news is $1000 bones down the drain tho, that bites. Yes your starter is unnecessary.
Post your fault codes. What is that noise you said you heard when you attempt to start?
Temperature increase can do two things - It can open tolerances for electrical contacts/connectors, increase resistance, decrease clearances of mechanical (depends on mech), or cause chips or electronics to fail, sometimes under the stress of old componentry (caps) or say dirty power.
It may also be time related (electrically). For example, turn you key on and leave the ignition ON the same duration you would normally run your engine. Then attempt to start.
You have to analyze the systems and eliminate what you can here.
#63
AudiWorld Wiseguy
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I did it!! See the little hole in the pix YEAH BABY - We'll see what happens tomorrow morning. My wading depth might be a bit compromised now ![Smile](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
https://twitter.com/Garage9_com/stat...79762703896576
![Smile](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
https://twitter.com/Garage9_com/stat...79762703896576
#64
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I've got great news to report - Cold temps last night, 7am got out there, fired first click, no delay/o codes. P-brake works the blazes too. I am going to do the right side as well for prevention.
Rhino - I think you may have to replace your horn. Just kidding! Bad news is $1000 bones down the drain tho, that bites. Yes your starter is unnecessary.
Post your fault codes. What is that noise you said you heard when you attempt to start?
Temperature increase can do two things - It can open tolerances for electrical contacts/connectors, increase resistance, decrease clearances of mechanical (depends on mech), or cause chips or electronics to fail, sometimes under the stress of old componentry (caps) or say dirty power.
It may also be time related (electrically). For example, turn you key on and leave the ignition ON the same duration you would normally run your engine. Then attempt to start.
You have to analyze the systems and eliminate what you can here.
Rhino - I think you may have to replace your horn. Just kidding! Bad news is $1000 bones down the drain tho, that bites. Yes your starter is unnecessary.
Post your fault codes. What is that noise you said you heard when you attempt to start?
Temperature increase can do two things - It can open tolerances for electrical contacts/connectors, increase resistance, decrease clearances of mechanical (depends on mech), or cause chips or electronics to fail, sometimes under the stress of old componentry (caps) or say dirty power.
It may also be time related (electrically). For example, turn you key on and leave the ignition ON the same duration you would normally run your engine. Then attempt to start.
You have to analyze the systems and eliminate what you can here.
#66
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
On my parking brake yes I did seal the hole with a high-tech silicone.
Anyway it'll be interesting to see at what temp, or how long (if ever) until I get another EPC/Jammed fault
I don't think I'll be doing a cambelt on this car, so that puts me at 300K km's disposal or 4-5 years.
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2002, a6, audi, beetle, c6, corvette, intermitent, intermittent, problem, problems, radio, start, starting, windshield, wippers