Rhino-1

UPDATE: So, my CEL came back on, and the car refused to start when warm again on a couple occasions. Luckily, my Ross-Tech Cable and laptop came in (I bought it from a forum member here--thanks!), and I was able to pull the fault codes and clear the DTC's. Once I did that, the car starts normally again... Back to scratching my head... did I just spend close to $1000 on an unnecessary starter swap? Lol--I hope I get smarter so I don't have to work harder... I'm going to read-up on the VCDS and clear the faults properly. I'm hoping not to have to throw parts at my car...

Shark_V8

I've got great news to report - Cold temps last night, 7am got out there, fired first click, no delay/o codes. P-brake works the blazes too. I am going to do the right side as well for prevention.

Rhino - I think you may have to replace your horn. Just kidding! Bad news is $1000 bones down the drain tho, that bites. Yes your starter is unnecessary.

Post your fault codes. What is that noise you said you heard when you attempt to start?

Temperature increase can do two things - It can open tolerances for electrical contacts/connectors, increase resistance, decrease clearances of mechanical (depends on mech), or cause chips or electronics to fail, sometimes under the stress of old componentry (caps) or say dirty power.

It may also be time related (electrically). For example, turn you key on and leave the ignition ON the same duration you would normally run your engine. Then attempt to start.

You have to analyze the systems and eliminate what you can here.

dvs_dave

Glad it worked and hope it lasts. A dab of silicon over the hole should seal it up. Although the damp is still getting in just the same somewhere else which is why it corroded and jammed in the first place.

Rhino-1

Will do. I am trying to figure out how to get that old Dell onto my Wifi so that I can export the results to my email/Macbook. I use a Macbook normally, and of course, the software is only Windows compatible...

Shark_V8

Easiest thing to do is take a photo of the screen or screen shot to USB stick.

Shark_V8

As you can see from the photo the corrosion on the outside of the parts. Now that air space (where I injected the lube) loc of the starter plunger pin is not officially a watertight space, has a rubber plug, also visible in the pix. I think it's a great place for condensation to form certainly in our climate. And we are talking 12 years of running here. Venting is a good thing - I am leaving that hole open for future maintenance too.

On my parking brake yes I did seal the hole with a high-tech silicone.

Anyway it'll be interesting to see at what temp, or how long (if ever) until I get another EPC/Jammed fault

I don't think I'll be doing a cambelt on this car, so that puts me at 300K km's disposal or 4-5 years.