Loss of power to MMI controler, A8 2005
#11
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Simply clean around the MMI buttons. Do it carefully. No water or harsh solvents. Try a plastic shirt collar stay, or even your fingernail to get in the cracks. If you need a little solvent, then rubbing alcohol on a lint free rag.
What can happen is a bit of fiber (like, a detailing rag at a dealer/shop, etc...) or dirt wedges into the MMI buttons. Depending on where, that can cause the system to cycle on and off and the screen go up and down. Saw it happen on my own--a good body shop that cleaned up the interior nicely but snagged some rag fibers in the buttons. Cleaned them out, and only then did it restart correctly and stay on.
What can happen is a bit of fiber (like, a detailing rag at a dealer/shop, etc...) or dirt wedges into the MMI buttons. Depending on where, that can cause the system to cycle on and off and the screen go up and down. Saw it happen on my own--a good body shop that cleaned up the interior nicely but snagged some rag fibers in the buttons. Cleaned them out, and only then did it restart correctly and stay on.
#12
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Simply clean around the MMI buttons. Do it carefully. No water or harsh solvents. Try a plastic shirt collar stay, or even your fingernail to get in the cracks. If you need a little solvent, then rubbing alcohol on a lint free rag.
What can happen is a bit of fiber (like, a detailing rag at a dealer/shop, etc...) or dirt wedges into the MMI buttons. Depending on where, that can cause the system to cycle on and off and the screen go up and down. Saw it happen on my own--a good body shop that cleaned up the interior nicely but snagged some rag fibers in the buttons. Cleaned them out, and only then did it restart correctly and stay on.
What can happen is a bit of fiber (like, a detailing rag at a dealer/shop, etc...) or dirt wedges into the MMI buttons. Depending on where, that can cause the system to cycle on and off and the screen go up and down. Saw it happen on my own--a good body shop that cleaned up the interior nicely but snagged some rag fibers in the buttons. Cleaned them out, and only then did it restart correctly and stay on.
#13
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Haven't seen them myself, but could be. Keeping it simple though, OP said it was a 2005 out of warranty. Skip the rubbing alcohol if you want--the typical issues are sodas and coffee from reading the posts over many years when someone owns up to or knows what happened--but the core advice remains simple physical cleaning around the edges of the buttons. With the button unit and trim all in place to be clear. All it costs is about 10 min. of time max.
#14
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Simply clean around the MMI buttons. Do it carefully. No water or harsh solvents. Try a plastic shirt collar stay, or even your fingernail to get in the cracks. If you need a little solvent, then rubbing alcohol on a lint free rag.
What can happen is a bit of fiber (like, a detailing rag at a dealer/shop, etc...) or dirt wedges into the MMI buttons. Depending on where, that can cause the system to cycle on and off and the screen go up and down. Saw it happen on my own--a good body shop that cleaned up the interior nicely but snagged some rag fibers in the buttons. Cleaned them out, and only then did it restart correctly and stay on.
What can happen is a bit of fiber (like, a detailing rag at a dealer/shop, etc...) or dirt wedges into the MMI buttons. Depending on where, that can cause the system to cycle on and off and the screen go up and down. Saw it happen on my own--a good body shop that cleaned up the interior nicely but snagged some rag fibers in the buttons. Cleaned them out, and only then did it restart correctly and stay on.
#15
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There's no power going to the control panel at all, non of the lights are working, theres no dirt or signs of fluid spillage, all the fuses have been checked and are all ok, I shall take it to an auto electrician and tell him all that has been suggested on here to see if he can sort it, I'll let you all know! Cheers.
#16
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Haven't seen them myself, but could be. Keeping it simple though, OP said it was a 2005 out of warranty. Skip the rubbing alcohol if you want--the typical issues are sodas and coffee from reading the posts over many years when someone owns up to or knows what happened--but the core advice remains simple physical cleaning around the edges of the buttons. With the button unit and trim all in place to be clear. All it costs is about 10 min. of time max.
#17
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You can sometimes duplicate a stuck button. Hold down a button before starting the car. Continue to hold down that button and depending on the MMI software level, you should see the lights on the MMI panel go bright and then the MMI may turn off. If it does, it usually stores a DTC for stuck button. Usually when there is truly a stuck button, the MMI will not respond to anything from the MMI control panel.
#18
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I'm seeing 4E0 910 729 but there are several variants, possibly based on VIN range and destination country.
They are not cheap either:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/4e0910729/
They are not cheap either:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/4e0910729/
#19
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If your auto electrician doesn't solve it you could try Shark Performance near Mansfield. They're not exactly local but not too far away? I've only used them once, for a remap yesterday, but using them was based on recommendations from people I know and having met and quizzed them for a few hours I will use them again when the need arises.
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I visited 2 'Audi/VW specialist auto electricians' today, one said "I wouldnt touch that" the other "I havent got the software to decode it sorry!" - seems the word specialist doesnt hold much meaning these days!
So iv bitten the bullet and booked it into Audi Liverpool for next wednesday, who want to charge me £126 + VAT for a diagnosis, although it had one yesterday and all the fault codes cleared - pointless money making exercise? Anyway in the mean time I shall be seeking a genuine specialist to try and save some money.
Thank you all for your continued advise, I shall keep you all up dated.
So iv bitten the bullet and booked it into Audi Liverpool for next wednesday, who want to charge me £126 + VAT for a diagnosis, although it had one yesterday and all the fault codes cleared - pointless money making exercise? Anyway in the mean time I shall be seeking a genuine specialist to try and save some money.
Thank you all for your continued advise, I shall keep you all up dated.