No start after Blower Motor and Resistor Change
02-03-2015, 04:24 AM
#1
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No start after Blower Motor and Resistor Change
Car is a 2004 Audi A8L V8 4.2. It ran great 2 weeks ago when i parked it, ordered a blower motor and resistor (I got the pair used for $130, but had to wait for them to get here and me to have time to install it). Good news! The new motor and resistor work great and I both get air moving and not have it work half assed while sounding like a bicycle with a card in the spokes.
Tuesday,03,February,2015,08:10:28:27211
VCDS Version: Release 14.10.1 (x64)
Address 01: Engine Labels:
Control Module Part Number:
Component and/or Version:
Software Coding:
Work Shop Code:
VCID: 55ABACB8AC6B1D896D6-FFFF
4 Faults Found:
17952 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187)
P1544 - 001 - Signal too Large
17581 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Signal too High
P1173 - 001 -
17987 - Throttle Actuator (J338)
P1579 - 001 - Adaptation Not Started
16502 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62)
P0118 - 002 - Signal too High
Readiness: N/A
The car turns over and over but doesn't fire. I checked the start authorization module and no codes. The Battery Management system keeps kicking in immediately despite that it showed good level before I did the blower motor and was programmed to the car about a year ago.
This coolant temp sensor was reading that at 5 degrees Fahrenheit with the engine not having run that day. I cleared the code and it doesn't come back. I've never seen that code before.
Clearing the codes, they immediately come back for all the throttle stuff. I replaced my throttle body about a year ago with a used one when i had a throttle angle sensor code then. I sprayed the wiring and connectors with contact cleaner when I did it; and the issue went away. Now the symptoms and issue are back; in throttle body adaptation, it shows unrealistic values for the sensors (both cant be at 99%!).
Any suggestions or further path of diagnosis?
Tuesday,03,February,2015,08:10:28:27211
VCDS Version: Release 14.10.1 (x64)
Address 01: Engine Labels:
Control Module Part Number:
Component and/or Version:
Software Coding:
Work Shop Code:
VCID: 55ABACB8AC6B1D896D6-FFFF
4 Faults Found:
17952 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187)
P1544 - 001 - Signal too Large
17581 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Signal too High
P1173 - 001 -
17987 - Throttle Actuator (J338)
P1579 - 001 - Adaptation Not Started
16502 - Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor (G62)
P0118 - 002 - Signal too High
Readiness: N/A
The car turns over and over but doesn't fire. I checked the start authorization module and no codes. The Battery Management system keeps kicking in immediately despite that it showed good level before I did the blower motor and was programmed to the car about a year ago.
This coolant temp sensor was reading that at 5 degrees Fahrenheit with the engine not having run that day. I cleared the code and it doesn't come back. I've never seen that code before.
Clearing the codes, they immediately come back for all the throttle stuff. I replaced my throttle body about a year ago with a used one when i had a throttle angle sensor code then. I sprayed the wiring and connectors with contact cleaner when I did it; and the issue went away. Now the symptoms and issue are back; in throttle body adaptation, it shows unrealistic values for the sensors (both cant be at 99%!).
Any suggestions or further path of diagnosis?
02-03-2015, 06:29 PM
#2
AudiWorld Super User
Check throttle body connector
You could try simply unplugging the throttle body connector and then plugging back in. Obviously be sure car is completely off when you do it; no VCDS ignition key on mode or anything like that.
Also, put the car on a charger overnight to be sure your battery has a good charge. You mention some things that cause me to think charge may be down (plus parked for two weeks). I had one similar experience with flaky codes around a throttle body that also triggered the EPC light. I think the battery had run down some when I did my coolant sensor and had to wait a while for a few other parts. Plus I opened the doors many times along the way that always wakes up the car and turns various things on. I did unplug the throttle bodies though to pull the intake (needed in the W12 coolant sensor job) and the ignition kicked on at one point inadvertently, so I can't be sure how the issue actually arose. But a fresh charge and pulling the errant throttle body connector and then plugging it again did make it all go away with no further codes once cleared.
You could also use some Deoxit or some similar cleaner and contact enhancer.
Supposedly if you force open the throttle by hand, you can screw it up internally. I have opened it manually on both my C5 4.2 and my W12 to wipe it clean a bit inside without anything bad happening to mine long term. But if you still have trouble after you check the connector and have a good charge, at that point I would probably just try to move the throttle plate open and closed by hand anyway to see if that helps.
If it then goes ok, doesn't show a bunch of codes and starts, run the adaptation.
Also, put the car on a charger overnight to be sure your battery has a good charge. You mention some things that cause me to think charge may be down (plus parked for two weeks). I had one similar experience with flaky codes around a throttle body that also triggered the EPC light. I think the battery had run down some when I did my coolant sensor and had to wait a while for a few other parts. Plus I opened the doors many times along the way that always wakes up the car and turns various things on. I did unplug the throttle bodies though to pull the intake (needed in the W12 coolant sensor job) and the ignition kicked on at one point inadvertently, so I can't be sure how the issue actually arose. But a fresh charge and pulling the errant throttle body connector and then plugging it again did make it all go away with no further codes once cleared.
You could also use some Deoxit or some similar cleaner and contact enhancer.
Supposedly if you force open the throttle by hand, you can screw it up internally. I have opened it manually on both my C5 4.2 and my W12 to wipe it clean a bit inside without anything bad happening to mine long term. But if you still have trouble after you check the connector and have a good charge, at that point I would probably just try to move the throttle plate open and closed by hand anyway to see if that helps.
If it then goes ok, doesn't show a bunch of codes and starts, run the adaptation.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 02-03-2015 at 10:51 PM.
02-10-2015, 02:37 PM
#3
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I did charge a long time, and cleared all codes. Now when I try to start it throws a code saying it can't get signal from g28, the engine speed sensor. The same sensor I replaced a year ago!
No more throttle codes, but meh. I'm going to charge even longer and see what happens.
No more throttle codes, but meh. I'm going to charge even longer and see what happens.
02-10-2015, 04:15 PM
#4
AudiWorld Super User
Any chance the connector on the speed sensor you replaced somehow became disconnected? Maybe take a look at it.
Otherwise, time for a new one. Confirm that you bought it from a dealer. I don't think knock-offs are available for it. If you were able to buy a non-OEM (Bosch) part, then I'd suspect the sensor. It gets pretty hot down there and heat kills electronic components which are internal to that sensor.
Otherwise, time for a new one. Confirm that you bought it from a dealer. I don't think knock-offs are available for it. If you were able to buy a non-OEM (Bosch) part, then I'd suspect the sensor. It gets pretty hot down there and heat kills electronic components which are internal to that sensor.
02-10-2015, 06:26 PM
#5
AudiWorld Super User
+1
And if the connector lock is broken, that one seems to be a complete engine run killer so should then be replaced. Audi sells the connector shells for lots of things as piece parts.
Otherwise as Mister Bally said, that sensor seems like the common denominator again to a flat out no start. Undercharged battery can lead to weird inst. panel light shows and spurious codes at times, but if starter is cranking it should kick over absent a fuel flow issue. Your codes really are pointing right back at the sensor, consonant w/ no start.
Otherwise as Mister Bally said, that sensor seems like the common denominator again to a flat out no start. Undercharged battery can lead to weird inst. panel light shows and spurious codes at times, but if starter is cranking it should kick over absent a fuel flow issue. Your codes really are pointing right back at the sensor, consonant w/ no start.
05-16-2015, 12:40 PM
#6
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I replaced the g28 a week ago. It started then next time i tried to start im getting tons of tb errors and it won't adapt. The g187 reading doesn't move at all. Any ideas? It seems if i let the carsit even a few days it has something else wrong.
I still get these codes after clearing them:
17952 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187)
P1544 - 001 - Signal too Large
17581 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Signal too High
P1173 - 001 -
17987 - Throttle Actuator (J338)
P1579 - 001 - Adaptation Not Started
I tried the disconnect of the throttle body and reconnect. I bought a used unit off of eBay, fitted it and same codes.
I still get these codes after clearing them:
17952 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187)
P1544 - 001 - Signal too Large
17581 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Signal too High
P1173 - 001 -
17987 - Throttle Actuator (J338)
P1579 - 001 - Adaptation Not Started
I tried the disconnect of the throttle body and reconnect. I bought a used unit off of eBay, fitted it and same codes.
Last edited by 80srule; 05-16-2015 at 12:44 PM.
05-17-2015, 08:24 AM
#7
AudiWorld Super User
Not sure I follow...so did you connect the x23y.59 flux converter to the z456.28/1.45 franistan? 
As in, most of us do not have the audi sensor/electronic component one-off numbers memorized and aren't going to run to a diagram to try to answer. I would provide a fuller description and use the common part names so we can try to help. But then maybe someone else understands the alphanumeric soup better than me?
As in, most of us do not have the audi sensor/electronic component one-off numbers memorized and aren't going to run to a diagram to try to answer. I would provide a fuller description and use the common part names so we can try to help. But then maybe someone else understands the alphanumeric soup better than me?
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 05-17-2015 at 08:28 AM.
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05-17-2015, 06:37 PM
#8
AudiWorld Super User
Although this is not an Audi transmission thread, here is something I once worked on which uses some of the same terminology. I still have a lab coat like the guy in the video. I also will start collecting a pension from this place within the next fourteen months:
05-18-2015, 08:58 AM
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Not sure I follow...so did you connect the x23y.59 flux converter to the z456.28/1.45 franistan?
As in, most of us do not have the audi sensor/electronic component one-off numbers memorized and aren't going to run to a diagram to try to answer. I would provide a fuller description and use the common part names so we can try to help. But then maybe someone else understands the alphanumeric soup better than me?
As in, most of us do not have the audi sensor/electronic component one-off numbers memorized and aren't going to run to a diagram to try to answer. I would provide a fuller description and use the common part names so we can try to help. But then maybe someone else understands the alphanumeric soup better than me?
The reading of G187 is a throttle position sensor reading.
05-18-2015, 10:43 AM
#10
AudiWorld Super User
You can take the cover off of the Bosch Throttle Position Sensors (be careful that you don't lose a clip, cover with a rag when prying them off. Then remove the wiper arm and add a bit of tension to the spring "fingers". Wipe the ends clean with a cotton cloth. Then wipe the black contact area (that looks like a blank piece of bakelite) with the same cloth and then reassemble.