oscarbravo

I'm thinking about trading my '98 740iL for an '04 A8...maybe an '05 but I found a nice '04 with 60K on it for what I think is a good price, $19K.

For the past 7-8 years, I've been a BMW guy. The last three have been a '97 528 and two 740iL's a '97 and '98 for a total of 150K miles plus. I love my '98 but I started traveling for my job again and the car has 153K on it. I do almost all my own maintenance and repairs which saves me a TON of money. In fact, if I couldn't DIY, I couldn't afford to own one.

So I understand what is involved with owning a German car and am OK with it. I did my research here and found some good threads as to what can/will go wrong. I think I have also learned that most of these (German) cars are pretty solid up to about 100K and between 125-150 require a LOT of attention...and cash.

So my question is, are these good to DIY? DO they share enough common components with the D2's that stuff like changing the timing belt/water pump can be done by me by using the how to posts here? What kind of things would be "dealer only" repairs and what might they cost? In fact, what could I expect (guess) to spend per year on maintenance driving 20-25K miles a year, starting at 60?

That's a lot to ask, but I'd appreciate your input.

Thanks in advance.

Mister Bally

I resemble your remarks and situation. I'd say go for it. The only thing I'd say that is dealer/workshop only would be procedures that require engine removal. Although thanks to Harbor Freight, and engine jack is under $200 these days. The timing belt is an interesting subject. The book says 75k replacement intervals but I just cant see it since the belt is quite massive, the engine is slow reving and the belt is so long that it really shouldn't need to be replaced that quick. Also, since I don't particularly abuse my engine, 150k does not seem too far fetched. I take covers off and inspect mine periodically. When it comes time, I'm not 100% certain about doing it myself as the front end removal looks like a royal pain. Then again, some have done the job without removing the front of the car. We'll decide when the time comes.

So far, with 112k miles, the only part that truly failed requiring work has been the WABCO electric air compressor for the Continental air suspension. It failed at around 70,000 miles for me.

Filters, spark plugs and oil changes are relatively easy. You must have the VAG-COM diagnostic software and interface for diagnostics and certain procedures. Well worth it. FOr example, to properly retract the rear electric parking brake function of the calipers at pad replacement time; the software is used to perform this. Some have just C-clamped the piston and pushed it back successfully. However, some reported other problems just a few weeks later.

As far as your comment about 125-150 k miles being the trigger for major work and money, my previous car, an '87 Audi 5000CS quattro with turbo I-5 engine, the big problems started between 200 and 225k miles for me. Car was bought new. It had a manual transmission so the throwout bearing went at 225k requiring a transmission pull. Two floor jacks needed for that beast. Alternator, starter, hydraulic pump, master cylinder, two or three fuel pumps (First went sooner at around 90k) Fuel lines rusted near the end and then major oil leaks around engine seals. Once it was no longer fun to repair, It was time to get rid of it. 18 years and 286k miles wasn't bad.

As far as my timing belt interval comments above go, they are my own. Follow them at your own risk and peril.

oscarbravo

That's just the kind of info I was looking for. It's not easy to leave a car you're so familiar with. There's not much on an e38 (740) I can't fix with the help of my Bentley and a great 7 series forum.

For this reason, I was even thinking about a D2. Seems like they are farther along wih their list of "how to's". As I daid, DIY is the only was I could afford driving either vehicle.

I dunno what I'll end up doing, but I'm really considering making the switch. Thanks again.

parkrog2

My 2004 A8L has 119,000 on it now. Timing belt replaced when thermostate failed and car started to overheat at 80k.(independent shop $1500.00) Brakes, oil, plugs and service easy for me but had to replaced one front wheel bearing at 98k ( indep. shop $350)and now other is making noise. Lost air conditioning compressor at 108,000 cost $1500.00 at shop. Suspension pump will probably be next. Suspension bushing upper control arm going bad, has been squeaking for over a year but not loose yet.
Best car ever owned, buy it won't be disappointed.

PAC

Sounds very similar to me, I was fortunate to keep my 98 740IL in addition to getting a new 06 A8L. The BMW has 87K on it and the Audi still pretty low with 18K. I also prefer to service the vehicles myself and any screw-ups can be costly on the A8....but it is a good way to learn. So do your research before hand. Vag Com will be very helpful and a must have. The electrical and PC involvement with the Audi will be pretty different from the BMW.(in addition to minor tweaking of onboard systems) A few other annoyances with the Audi may be low battery codes for the remote keys. Easy to fix by changing the batteries. Seems that the TPMS has annoyed others too soon as those batteries wear out. (but you can check them with Vag Com) Unless your 740 had 17"+ rims, the Audi wheels (tires) will cost more. Good snows for 18 & 19" are somewhat limited and not cheap. Good luck with the car if you get it.....Lots of great advice and help on this site!!!
thanks, peter

oscarbravo

Thanks all. I appreciate your prompt and thoughtful replies. Reading more here also has me considering a D2. Seems like they're not quite as high tech.

MP4.2+6.0

I think most stuff on a D3 is in the realm of a good DIY'er. I also own a C5 (A6) 4.2, which mechanically and systemns wise I think is quite similar to the D2.

1. I think the D3 is light years ahead of the C5 design wise. The C5 and D2 are still very solid, well engineered cars. The D3 is a whole class above it though.

2. Mechanically I don't see much on the D3 that I haven't seen on the C5--very similar concepts, design thinking, repair methods, etc. Ignore that I have a W12 relative to basic brake repair, electrical, filters, doors, CV axles, etc, etc. Obviously under warranty I don't touch too much, but a number of my mods have taken me deep into the car.

3. As others have said, if you are serious as a DIY'er, you need the VAG COM as a basic price of admission. Pretty much the same on a D2 or C5 BTW.

4. For things that I think push the envelope of most DIY'ers, probably the MMI screen, some of the audio computer components, and the auto tranny (beyond the fluid and filter). Again though, the D2 has some overlapping difficult to figure out systems like the antenna amps, and its Nav (if you even find one) is way, way behind the D3. D2 (C5) and D3 both seem to have similar HVAC stuff as well as diagnostics if it becomes an issue.

5. Important on the D2, the 5HP tranny is a known SERIOUS weak spot for many. By contrast, not too many tranny stories on the D3. A few here and there, but nothing like the repeated similar posts on the D2 and C5 board. The D3 uses a 6 speed AT, while the D2 and C5 were 5 speeds. Better mileage, better performance, less weight actually; much better shifting.

6. D2's and C5's also ate front suspension parts like clockwork. Jury still out on D3, with a fair number of upper arm reports and a TSB, but again nothing like the D3/C5. Those cars were really designed in an era of baseline 15 or 16 inch 45 pound wheel assemmblies and somewhat smaller brakes, and as wheels grew another couple of inches and 10-15 pounds plus added brake weight with bigger rotors, the suspensions really weren't really sized for the added unsprung weight. D3 parts are appropriately beefier.

7. D3 has the air suspension. Some more parts in there and they are expensive if they ever fail, but the ride is way way better than my steel spring and aluminum bits C5 ride, even with much lower profile tires on the D3. Plus it is height adjustable both on screen and further with VAG COM. Ride is one of the things that really makes the D3 top drawer for me.

Hennessy

Hello all,
I'm also thinking of buying an A8. Right now I'm considering an 06 or 07. In my research I came across this forum and it has been a great help to me in finding what I should look for and expect if I do buy one. I've noticed on some 07s they have the rear camera for parking, is this only available in 07+ models?? I can't seem to find any difference except the engine upgrade which I hear is a noticeable difference.

If anyone could help I'd appreciate it greatly.

daygo718

Hennessy, I'm in your same boat considering an 06 or 07 A8. From my research the main differences are the upgraded engine, headrests, larger information display in the dash and in later model 07's the AMI module for ipod integration. These are significant upgrades IMO and if I can find an 07 at a decent price when I'm ready to purchase in a few months, I think it will be money well spent over the 06.

MP4.2+6.0

I have a 2006 bought CPO in 2007 so may not have it all, but I followed the new car changes each year at the time.

From 2006 to 2007 the primary changes were the motor (on the 4.2) from 5v to 4v FSI, and the rear display going from a pictoral representation to an actual camera. I thought the camera was included full year, while AMI was introduced along the way.

While not advertised, the AMI software got up to what is considered to be the relatively modern versions after at least my early 2006 which still had the 2x.xx version. 33.10 was available by 2007. That is upgradable though, and many have gotten it done.

In 20" wheels, I think the new style RS4 wheels (the twin seven spokes) were probably 2007; in 2006 they were still at the old style 9 spoke RS4's that are heavier; don't recall if those were available on the 4.2 even as an option. If you are looking at 18's and 19's that are more common, they are probably the couple of common flavors out there.

I believe headrests, as well as the rectangular fogs, more squarish mirrors with built in turn signals, the restyled rear LED's, the piano black around the MMI display and other bits all came with the later mid life restyle in 2008 (the other one being in 2006 with the fishmouth grill for all but the W12, which had it from the intro in 2005). Audi also improved the soundproofing at the same time, which 4.2'ers did seem to note made a meaningful difference.