dvs_dave

Having just gone through this for another reason it's something that you need the workshop manual for (eg Alldata, $30 1yr or $45 5yr which is very reasonable) There's quite a lot of steps involved. It's not difficult but without the manual not really obvious how to do it either.

You'll need to purchase some replacement trim clips for the door card as you will break a good number of them. Impossible not to given their design and how much force is required to unclip them. Probably the hardest part of the job.

MP4.2+6.0

Yep, plus 1 on all of this. I also own a handful of those door clips for a future pull.

Looking at pic, let's figure maybe you took the speaker out. Maybe you even pulled the window winder. Then if those 2" black plastic plugs are not only out of there, but you haven't used them as access points to undo the window glass, you aren't deep enough. And if you have the window in the wrong place right now for the bolts to line up with those holes, you will be reassembling enough of the electrical and motor drive to get it to move. All of this--and what ever are going on with the shade--are now reasons 53, 54 and 55 to get the shop manual in some format.

BTDT, also on the front door, and likewise to get to the comfort close which is all integrated into the latch assembly.

dvs_dave

[something screwy going on with the time stamps on this thread on the mobile site. Hopefully this reply ends up in the right spot.]

I can tell you now that getting the carrier assembly removed (that's what the "sheild" assembly is called) is the least of your worries. To get access to the lock you have to remove the whole window frame. There is a very specific process for that, particularly the remounting if it.

Please just spend $30 on an alldata subscription for a year (which will pay for itself literally 1000+ times over if you're serious about DIYing) as you're on a path to breaking/damaging something a lot more expensive (like the window) than that by not knowing the proper procedures. Like I've said previously, it's not difficult, but it's certainly not obvious either.

firestrait

I really took those big black rubbers off for sure and unmounted the glass and also secured it up... Is that procedure really so different than front door? I can't believe it... :/ And I'm not doing this type of work first time.... This is just first door in my whole life that keeps fighting back and it does that really hard...

Maybe I'll buy that lisence for alldata...

dvs_dave

It's fighting you for a reason....you're not doing it right and wasting a ton of time. Buy the manual already. It's not like it's expensive.

chokboywonda

try these
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...ive%20unit.pdf

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...un%20blind.pdf

richard-tx

Not necessarily. I was able to R&R the latch/lock without removing the frame. It was not easy, but I did get it done.

Once you understand how the door is put together, it gets easier. What is interesting is that the sub panel has tapered dowels attached and they fit into tapered holes. That way the window adjustments are limited to something sane. It is helpful to mark the window adjustments with a Sharpie marker before disassembly. It will at least save some time.

dvs_dave

You're missing my point. If there was a specialist Audi tool that is readily available, is tremendously useful for all jobs, makes those jobs many many times easier to complete properly, and costs 30 bucks, you wouldn't hesitate to buy it would you?

Well guess what, such a tool exists! It's called a shop manual. Why wouldn't anyone buy one? Especially as folks don't hesitate to drop over 10 times that on VCDS.

chokboywonda

^^^^
You are so right times 10 but people don't realise until they get one and it helps you avoid breaking parts whilst trying to get to the broken part :-)