ltooz_a6_a8_q7

I would go back to basic,set the gear to fully open, max turn, then put the case back with the sensor as in the video at 1:28. I wouldn't do it outside the car, there's no stops and the sensor will be in the wrong position.


Cheers,
Louis

dvs_dave

I guess this is the third time now.....the position sensor cannot be put back on in the wrong position in relation to the output shaft. The sensor is driven by a keyed (D-shape) shaft that is fixed to the output shaft.

Amiko Tsanava

I'd like to finally confirm that Louis appears to be absolutely right!
Today I have corrected gears and positioned the sensor just like on the photo above (provided by Louis) and the problem with this issue is solved. I'm glad to tell you that. Alignment of the position sensor MATTERS.

Also I have extracted the little motor from the body and I think I can replace it with stronger one.



It says it is with 170NM torque.
Do I need much more?

It manages to close the lid but it has troubles with opening.

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

Bought a few of those but never tried since the spring help lifting it up.

dvs_dave

Well I’ll be damned. So the position sensor can be put on two different ways; the correct way, or 180deg out of phase? From my dismantling of the motor a while back I don’t recall this being possible, at least on the one that was fitted to my car as I didn’t run into this problem at all, and I took it apart a few times. Maybe a nuance with different versions?

Anyway, weak actuator is as far as we’ve been able to ascertain is caused by the electromagnetic clutch wearing out and not being able to transmit sufficient torque. If you can find a reliable way to replace the clutch friction material, you should be able to get it working again. However it’s worth noting that the metal body high torque version has a much larger motor, and the metal body is presumably to prevent the actuator case from flexing under load; presumably something that the plastic version was susceptible to, and perhaps also a cause of its problems.

Amiko Tsanava

Have you tried to change/correct the alignments of the mechanisms of the lid? When the motor tries to lift them, passenger side (US standard) rises significantly, while the driver side doesn't even make a tillte move.

Actually I have tried as many positions as 4 or 5 until I got to the correct point. Each time I changed the position of the sensor's gear with one tooth, the lid went closer and closer to the destination. I mean, to the latch. So, I can definitely assure you that it may be sat to many positions, none of which are correct except the one and the only I've finally achieved step by step.

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

Yes, the sensor can only put in one way due to the key, but the teeth can be off. The sensor can be calibrated by rotation but it must have a base setting which is max and min of the gear position (half moon gearing).

Amiko Tsanava

By the way, I found out that the same kind of that little motor (inside of the body) is used in many other cars for various mechanisms (for door windows open/closure and etc.) and now I think may be it's possible to find something with the same shape but with higher torque to use it as a replacement for my original little motor that I have extracted from the body?

ltooz_a6_a8_q7

Try to find one that works and let us know

Amiko Tsanava

Have you ever tried to change/correct the alignments of the mechanisms of the lid? When the motor tries to lift them, passenger side (US standard) rises significantly, while the driver side doesn't even make a tillte move.