What would cause rough idle after oil change? Here are the codes I pulled.
#1
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Hello everyone,
Do you have any ideas what I might have messed up?
I recently changed the oil in my 2006 A8 L. I didn't overfill it but I made quite a mess, spilling oil all over the place. After I was done the car ran rough and the flashing check engine light came on. I turned the car off immediately. I checked codes, cleared them, waited an hour or two, started the car again, and it ran better. No codes since. It still seems to be running a little bit rough though and I'd like to figure out why. Any clues?
Here are the codes I pulled when it was really bad:
Address 01: Engine Labels: None
Part No SW: 4E0 910 560 P HW: 4E0 907 560
Component: 4.2L V8/5V G 0010
Revision: --H01--- Serial number: AUX3Z0E5767277
Coding: 0007773
Shop #: WSC 02313 785 00200
VCID: 2E53EF56B905E268827
3 Faults Found:
16590 - Injector: Cylinder 6 (N84)
P0206 - 004 - Circuit Malfunction - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 219103 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 880 /min
Load: 69.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 35.0°C
Temperature: 26.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 0.0 mbar
Voltage: 10.160 V
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 001 -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 219103 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 917 /min
Load: 30.2 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 36.0°C
Temperature: 25.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 0.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.954 V
16690 - Cylinder 6
P0306 - 001 - Misfire Detected
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 219103 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 746 /min
Load: 30.6 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 36.0°C
Temperature: 25.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 0.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.319 V
Readiness: 0000 0000
Do you have any ideas what I might have messed up?
I recently changed the oil in my 2006 A8 L. I didn't overfill it but I made quite a mess, spilling oil all over the place. After I was done the car ran rough and the flashing check engine light came on. I turned the car off immediately. I checked codes, cleared them, waited an hour or two, started the car again, and it ran better. No codes since. It still seems to be running a little bit rough though and I'd like to figure out why. Any clues?
Here are the codes I pulled when it was really bad:
Address 01: Engine Labels: None
Part No SW: 4E0 910 560 P HW: 4E0 907 560
Component: 4.2L V8/5V G 0010
Revision: --H01--- Serial number: AUX3Z0E5767277
Coding: 0007773
Shop #: WSC 02313 785 00200
VCID: 2E53EF56B905E268827
3 Faults Found:
16590 - Injector: Cylinder 6 (N84)
P0206 - 004 - Circuit Malfunction - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 219103 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 880 /min
Load: 69.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 35.0°C
Temperature: 26.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 0.0 mbar
Voltage: 10.160 V
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 001 -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 219103 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 917 /min
Load: 30.2 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 36.0°C
Temperature: 25.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 0.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.954 V
16690 - Cylinder 6
P0306 - 001 - Misfire Detected
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 219103 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 746 /min
Load: 30.6 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 36.0°C
Temperature: 25.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 0.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.319 V
Readiness: 0000 0000
#2
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How did you clean the oil mess? If you used water it could be that you messed up cylinder 6 ignition contacts. Two hours later water evaporated.
#3
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I didn't use water but I think that you're in the right track. Perhaps oil got somewhere electrical, messed up the injector or spark to cylinder 6, and then later the oil diminished just enough for it to work again. Another possibility is that I messed something up near the firewall when I was trying to get the mass airflow sensor (MAF) and assorted plumbing out of the way.
I just wiped spilled oil up with shop towels. I did get oil on the coil pack for cylinder 6 but I wouldn't think that would cause the error that says the fuel injector on cylinder 6 is wacky. Is that right?
Since the incident I've unplugged the fuel injector connectors on the driver's side bank and cleaned the contacts with electronics cleaner. Same with the black and brown injector plugs on the front of that side.
Maybe the next thing to try is to pulls the connectors for the coil packs on the driver's side and clean them, in case oil got in them? Or maybe replace the coil pack on cylinder 6 to see if that helps?
Is there anything towards the firewall that I could have messed up with yanking on the MAF intake hardware?
The car runs pretty good right now, no errors, but it still seems to rev just a little rougher than it used to.
-Josh
I just wiped spilled oil up with shop towels. I did get oil on the coil pack for cylinder 6 but I wouldn't think that would cause the error that says the fuel injector on cylinder 6 is wacky. Is that right?
Since the incident I've unplugged the fuel injector connectors on the driver's side bank and cleaned the contacts with electronics cleaner. Same with the black and brown injector plugs on the front of that side.
Maybe the next thing to try is to pulls the connectors for the coil packs on the driver's side and clean them, in case oil got in them? Or maybe replace the coil pack on cylinder 6 to see if that helps?
Is there anything towards the firewall that I could have messed up with yanking on the MAF intake hardware?
The car runs pretty good right now, no errors, but it still seems to rev just a little rougher than it used to.
-Josh
#4
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Josh, before you start replacing things, while I accept coils can fail, remember what I was taught by the mechanic who serviced my K9 interceptor.. "It's always the last thing you did that caused the latest problem'.. something of a paraphrase, but you see where I'm going. My advice? Before you replace the coil, move it into another cylinder and see if the code moves with it, that will help determine if it's coil, connector, wiring etc.
How did you make a mess mate? What happened?
K9
How did you make a mess mate? What happened?
K9
I didn't use water but I think that you're in the right track. Perhaps oil got somewhere electrical, messed up the injector or spark to cylinder 6, and then later the oil diminished just enough for it to work again. Another possibility is that I messed something up near the firewall when I was trying to get the mass airflow sensor (MAF) and assorted plumbing out of the way.
I just wiped spilled oil up with shop towels. I did get oil on the coil pack for cylinder 6 but I wouldn't think that would cause the error that says the fuel injector on cylinder 6 is wacky. Is that right?
Since the incident I've unplugged the fuel injector connectors on the driver's side bank and cleaned the contacts with electronics cleaner. Same with the black and brown injector plugs on the front of that side.
Maybe the next thing to try is to pulls the connectors for the coil packs on the driver's side and clean them, in case oil got in them? Or maybe replace the coil pack on cylinder 6 to see if that helps?
Is there anything towards the firewall that I could have messed up with yanking on the MAF intake hardware?
The car runs pretty good right now, no errors, but it still seems to rev just a little rougher than it used to.
-Josh
I just wiped spilled oil up with shop towels. I did get oil on the coil pack for cylinder 6 but I wouldn't think that would cause the error that says the fuel injector on cylinder 6 is wacky. Is that right?
Since the incident I've unplugged the fuel injector connectors on the driver's side bank and cleaned the contacts with electronics cleaner. Same with the black and brown injector plugs on the front of that side.
Maybe the next thing to try is to pulls the connectors for the coil packs on the driver's side and clean them, in case oil got in them? Or maybe replace the coil pack on cylinder 6 to see if that helps?
Is there anything towards the firewall that I could have messed up with yanking on the MAF intake hardware?
The car runs pretty good right now, no errors, but it still seems to rev just a little rougher than it used to.
-Josh
#5
AudiWorld Super User
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This is the 2nd time people have problems with engines after oil changes. I haven't had the opportunity to do one, but it does seem like it's easy to get screwed up on D3.
Unless the 4.2L is different, I'll be doing the PaulW way, I think it's clean, logical, especially the D3 with the oil filter is accessed on the top and not the bottom. Why go crawling under the car, especially the work of removing the engine cover?
<a href="http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/d3/d3S8oilchange.html">The clean, sane and back saving oil change way</a>
Unless the 4.2L is different, I'll be doing the PaulW way, I think it's clean, logical, especially the D3 with the oil filter is accessed on the top and not the bottom. Why go crawling under the car, especially the work of removing the engine cover?
<a href="http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/d3/d3S8oilchange.html">The clean, sane and back saving oil change way</a>
#6
AudiWorld Super User
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If there are no errors could it be that you are just paying more attention than before.
Yanking on a MAF sensor is not really good idea. This cars are oldish so some rubber may give up and give you air leak. But that would create more problems at idle than on higher rpm. Disconnecting MAF on the air box side (two Philips screws) and careful lifting of upper part of the box without front intake doesn't require any yanking. Sorry for tutoring if you already know this, or have a better way.
Yanking on a MAF sensor is not really good idea. This cars are oldish so some rubber may give up and give you air leak. But that would create more problems at idle than on higher rpm. Disconnecting MAF on the air box side (two Philips screws) and careful lifting of upper part of the box without front intake doesn't require any yanking. Sorry for tutoring if you already know this, or have a better way.
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#7
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BFM engines unfortunately have oil filter underneath the air filter box. Though you don't need to crawl if you use vacuum oil remover and just suck it trough the dipstick opening.
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#8
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Thanks for the advice folks.
It was my first oil change on this car and it must have been real comedy for the neighbors, watching from their windows. I really struggled getting the air filter box back in, especially the little front grill intake connector, but then I figured out that the upper air filter cover comes apart. And then my oil catch basin air bleeder valved failed to work so the oil didn't go into the container but instead overflowed. And then, when I was trying to pour some oil into the oil filter housing after replacing the filter, I dropped the oil-filled cup something like three times, making a huge mess. And then, for good measure, I spilled oil all over the injectors/coil packs when refilling.
Mishar, I ended up doing as you suggested and removing the two screws that hold the MAF to the upper air filter cover.
Mishar you may be right that I'm just paying more attention now and that there is nothing wrong at all. It it idles and then revs up smooth but then when I take my foot off the gas, as the RPMs just begin to decrease, I feel a bit of vibration that I never noticed before. It's probably all just in my head.
Thanks again for the suggestions; hope you're all having a good weekend,
-JT
It was my first oil change on this car and it must have been real comedy for the neighbors, watching from their windows. I really struggled getting the air filter box back in, especially the little front grill intake connector, but then I figured out that the upper air filter cover comes apart. And then my oil catch basin air bleeder valved failed to work so the oil didn't go into the container but instead overflowed. And then, when I was trying to pour some oil into the oil filter housing after replacing the filter, I dropped the oil-filled cup something like three times, making a huge mess. And then, for good measure, I spilled oil all over the injectors/coil packs when refilling.
Mishar, I ended up doing as you suggested and removing the two screws that hold the MAF to the upper air filter cover.
Mishar you may be right that I'm just paying more attention now and that there is nothing wrong at all. It it idles and then revs up smooth but then when I take my foot off the gas, as the RPMs just begin to decrease, I feel a bit of vibration that I never noticed before. It's probably all just in my head.
Thanks again for the suggestions; hope you're all having a good weekend,
-JT
#9
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[QUOTE=powderlvr;24475138]Hello everyone,
"Do you have any ideas what I might have messed up?"
Idea of ancientry:
"Do you have any ideas what I might have messed up?"
Idea of ancientry: