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I have 2013 w12, that has intermittent temp issues - some days, it’ll take 15 min / 10 miles of driving to get to the middle of the operating temp gauge, others maybe 5 min / 3 miles.
Saw an older stored code for p2181, but nothing recent.
Don’t like it taking so long to get to temp, would like to get on the gas sooner thinking intermittent stuck open thermostat.
Any additional tests I can do to troubleshoot, or it’s a yep, time to replace thermostat?
And do I need to replace the full “Part 5 (07P121115E) on the attached pic, or can I just do “Part 12 (07P198210A)” ?
There is a TSB kit for this, 4rings should be along at some point to chime in with part number etc.
Try 07P198210A for now, I think that should get you what you need.
A word of warning as well, full temp on the coolant doesn't mean oil is ready to go. My drive to the shop is 14 miles and my coolant shows good to go by the first roundabout that's 1/5 of my way there in winter. Summer it sometimes shows good in 1.5 miles.....oil is still only 140 at best at those times. I usually wait till about half way to work before going full bore as that's when I'm assured to have 180*
Last edited by Striker2237; 06-28-2024 at 12:36 PM.
There is a TSB kit for this, 4rings should be along at some point to chime in with part number etc.
Try 07P198210A for now, I think that should get you what you need.
A word of warning as well, full temp on the coolant doesn't mean oil is ready to go. My drive to the shop is 14 miles and my coolant shows good to go by the first roundabout that's 1/5 of my way there in winter. Summer it sometimes shows good in 1.5 miles.....oil is still only 140 at best at those times. I usually wait till about half way to work before going full bore as that's when I'm assured to have 180*
Side note: dealer killed it on my S8 with a software rev so I have yet to put it back, but the VCDS "lap timer" mod have my oil temp. As a practical matter, when the rev limiter LED indicators on my S8 goes from the more limited 5K type level to the higher rev normal display, that is when car is saying it is at operating temp. It is coming from the oil temp apparently. The oil temp only displays in the lap timer screen once it reaches that same temp where the tach display LED's no longer show the lower rev limit.
Side note: dealer killed it on my S8 with a software rev so I have yet to put it back, but the VCDS "lap timer" mod have my oil temp. As a practical matter, when the rev limiter LED indicators on my S8 goes from the more limited 5K type level to the higher rev normal display, that is when car is saying it is at operating temp. It is coming from the oil temp apparently. The oil temp only displays in the lap timer screen once it reaches that same temp where the tach display LED's no longer show the lower rev limit.
Totally wrong. Oil operating temp is 180+ and I get full tach at only 120*
I can make a video if you want, the tach shows fine well before oil temp is appropriate for WOT and redline in my experience on my cars.
Not even 2 min and coolant shows hot 5 min, allows full revs with only 140*
I don't know about you but I don't want to be going full power until oil is flowing as readily as possible.
Last edited by Striker2237; 06-30-2024 at 12:40 PM.
Note to self from last reply--should have remembered from prior threads and others' similar prior reactions...
Meantime, yep says 140F per the pics as tach LED eases up on mine. And meantime it is 5W on cold side of typical common oil spec, 40 on warm, and typically 90% of wear is rule of thumb for first 5-10 or 30 or 60 seconds of start up (depends on who says it, newer injected, older carbs, etc.) . So, which viscosity is that at 120 or 140, or whatever well beyond ambient? On top of common Audi (and other makes) historical turbo issues (screens aside) were post shut down coking, remediated by various factory after-run systems over the decades. As in, in stock tune turbo concerns separate from internal engine are more typically hot and post shutdown, Then there is the more direct internal "cooling" part of oil function Audi has used for decades now like underside piston spray, where warm is presumably actually better than full hot. Lot's of subjectivity in here, and from there the "totally wrong" is off base. The straight oil temp theory seems itself dubious and simplistic absent viscosity, various motor subsystem contexts, and other factors Audi factory engineers actually worked through during design.
Note to self from last reply--should have remembered from prior threads and others' similar prior reactions...
Meantime, yep says 140F per the pics as tach LED eases up on mine. And meantime it is 5W on cold side of typical common oil spec, 40 on warm, and typically 90% of wear is rule of thumb for first 5-10 or 30 or 60 seconds of start up (depends on who says it, newer injected, older carbs, etc.) . So, which viscosity is that at 120 or 140, or whatever well beyond ambient? On top of common Audi (and other makes) historical turbo issues (screens aside) were post shut down coking, remediated by various factory after-run systems over the decades. As in, in stock tune turbo concerns separate from internal engine are more typically hot and post shutdown, Then there is the more direct internal "cooling" part of oil function Audi has used for decades now like underside piston spray, where warm is presumably actually better than full hot. Lot's of subjectivity in here, and from there the "totally wrong" is off base. The straight oil temp theory seems itself dubious and simplistic absent viscosity, various motor subsystem contexts, and other factors Audi factory engineers actually worked through during design.
Lol ok man. Flow rate is lower when cold and flow is what provides cooling and lubrication and is why there is an oil cooler.
Shutdown with NO oil flow at the turbos has nothing to do with carrying load when running btw, might want to familiarize yourself with the differences of those two states before using the former as an example.
You are right it's 40 weight when warm and will flow and has an HTHS of such when warm.....and warm is not 140f* it's 100c* as the spec and test sheets for oil will always show.
Cold is not 5w btw lol! Come on now you should know what variable weight specs means. It flows like it's a straight 5 weight at 0* not somehow is a 5 weight oil on start.
Lol ok man. Flow rate is lower when cold and flow is what provides cooling and lubrication and is why there is an oil cooler.
Shutdown with NO oil flow at the turbos has nothing to do with carrying load when running btw, might want to familiarize yourself with the differences of those two states before using the former as an example.
You are right it's 40 weight when warm and will flow and has an HTHS of such when warm.....and warm is not 140f* it's 100c* as the spec and test sheets for oil will always show.
Cold is not 5w btw lol! Come on now you should know what variable weight specs means. It flows like it's a straight 5 weight at 0* not somehow is a 5 weight oil on start.
No . More oversimplifying and lack of understanding. ...Pressure... And if you don't understand shutdown with early gen turbos--or any with an underdesigned system-- you "might want to familiarize yourself with the differences of those two states before.." giving us yet another misplaced conclusiory statement. I gave you the key word even that you blew right past with the keyboard (coking). If you are too young or don't otherwise understand that very real but usually now legacy issue relating to frying the turbo bearings over time when a motor shuts down when quite hot--the oil used cook at the bearing (no flow...) I can't help you. That was the big turbo killer, not some 'half baked' cold or warm up idea (already well past ambient at 120 or 140 with a multiviscocity oil spec depending on which numbers you threw out). Also why the old advice to back off and let it run at low or no load pressure shutdown after spirited driving..which afterrun systems are considered to have largely obviated--once they got to after run coolant around bearing area and not fan for underhood temps generally. And 5W was simply abbreviating what's printed as the general spec right there on the bottle..duh. But I guess we have connect every dot and cross every t on some casual forum site? Fire, ready... And so on.
Big picture, I would stop trying to out think the Audi engineers. Regardless, tone down some of the in your face and categorical rhetoric more generally. Not constructive nor welcome. As I said and recalling others' reactions, lesson learned for me...in other ways. Let's move on.
No . More oversimplifying and lack of understanding. ...Pressure... And if you don't understand shutdown with early gen turbos--or any with an underdesigned system-- you "might want to familiarize yourself with the differences of those two states before.." giving us yet another misplaced conclusiory statement. I gave you the key word even that you blew right past with the keyboard (coking). If you are too young or don't otherwise understand that very real but usually now legacy issue relating to frying the turbo bearings over time when a motor shuts down when quite hot--the oil used cook at the bearing (no flow...) I can't help you. That was the big turbo killer, not some 'half baked' cold or warm up idea (already well past ambient at 120 or 140 with a multiviscocity oil spec depending on which numbers you threw out). Also why the old advice to back off and let it run at low or no load pressure shutdown after spirited driving..which afterrun systems are considered to have largely obviated--once they got to after run coolant around bearing area and not fan for underhood temps generally. And 5W was simply abbreviating what's printed as the general spec right there on the bottle..duh. But I guess we have connect every dot and cross every t on some casual forum site? Fire, ready... And so on.
Big picture, I would stop trying to out think the Audi engineers. Regardless, tone down some of the in your face and categorical rhetoric more generally. Not constructive nor welcome. As I said and recalling others' reactions, lesson learned for me...in other ways. Let's move on.
Pressure isn't lubrication or cooling. You fundamentally don't understand that if you even brought it up in this context, you can have 100+ psi and no flow and that will kill any engine from overheating at the bearings.
Flow is what cools the engine and it's exactly why colder oil is dangerous since it has reduced flow.
I never once brought up shutdown state btw, that's all you and has nothing at all to do with what we were talking about. You think I don't know about oil coking? Haha! I didn't bring that up since it wasn't relevant at all plus these cars have after run pumps for the coolant side.
Once again for clarity we are talking about the engine running at high load not after its shutdown. You are the only one who brought that up.
Last edited by Striker2237; 06-30-2024 at 03:58 PM.
06-28-2024, 11:34 AM
2013 A8L W12 - thermostat replacement, whole housing required?
thinking intermittent stuck open thermostat.
