2014 S8 -- coming off warranty...
11-27-2017, 06:02 AM
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2014 S8 -- coming off warranty...
My 2014 S8 with 40k miles is coming off factory warranty in a month. Is there anything I should have the dealership look for / focus on? I have had the downpipes replaced but other than that, the car has been solid. Hearing some rattles and basic wear/tear items but nothing obvious....
Thank you!
Thank you!
11-27-2017, 02:34 PM
#2
AudiWorld Super User
So, being honest I would say either climb over and especially under the car and also scan it with VCDS, or ... have an indy do the same. You'll find a few tips here, but each car may have its own issues to be tracked down. Basically do (or have done) a careful pre purchase inspection. Well worth it. Your original post suggests for example things you could spend a grand on at dealer type prices, or more--the reference to "some rattles and basic wear/tear" items. Who knows what else? On my own rides, my final warranty fix bill is often literally a couple of grand. On D3 W12 it was more.
On your rattle mention BTW, you and they should look carefully at both the sway bar links and the upper control arm bushings in front. Both are known S8/A8 wear areas, both D4 and D3. When I say get under, I really mean that. Take all the covers off and look for any evidence of any kind of fluid. On D3 A8 W12, that got me all of a new radiator (minor seepage), new and very painful to replace valve cover gaskets on both sides, and an out of this world labor cost avoidance (10-20 hours!!) for the engine torque mount on a W12. All tied to fluids I found, typically small quantities and nothing smoking or any warning lights and such.
A scan may well find things buried in the modules that you won't pick up unless a light comes on or something is yet more obvious. But in a year or two, presto you come to find out. To be clear, a VCDS scan that reaches into all the electronics, not the throw away OBDII motor only type generic code readers. Finally, go over every electrical item and switch in the car, very systematically. You can do that yourself separate from any mechanic look see for the drivetrain and electronic scan. Thus, all the HVAC, every window, every seat, al the driver's switches around wheel and IP, and so on. Same as you would do with a really careful and pricy used car purchase if you want to save money and hassle. This month you just have to find it. Next month you still have to find it, but now you pay for it at Audi prices too.
On your rattle mention BTW, you and they should look carefully at both the sway bar links and the upper control arm bushings in front. Both are known S8/A8 wear areas, both D4 and D3. When I say get under, I really mean that. Take all the covers off and look for any evidence of any kind of fluid. On D3 A8 W12, that got me all of a new radiator (minor seepage), new and very painful to replace valve cover gaskets on both sides, and an out of this world labor cost avoidance (10-20 hours!!) for the engine torque mount on a W12. All tied to fluids I found, typically small quantities and nothing smoking or any warning lights and such.
A scan may well find things buried in the modules that you won't pick up unless a light comes on or something is yet more obvious. But in a year or two, presto you come to find out. To be clear, a VCDS scan that reaches into all the electronics, not the throw away OBDII motor only type generic code readers. Finally, go over every electrical item and switch in the car, very systematically. You can do that yourself separate from any mechanic look see for the drivetrain and electronic scan. Thus, all the HVAC, every window, every seat, al the driver's switches around wheel and IP, and so on. Same as you would do with a really careful and pricy used car purchase if you want to save money and hassle. This month you just have to find it. Next month you still have to find it, but now you pay for it at Audi prices too.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 11-27-2017 at 02:39 PM.
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Smiling Away (05-20-2024)
11-27-2017, 05:24 PM
#3
AudiWorld Member
So, being honest I would say either climb over and especially under the car and also scan it with VCDS, or ... have an indy do the same. You'll find a few tips here, but each car may have its own issues to be tracked down. Basically do (or have done) a careful pre purchase inspection. Well worth it. Your original post suggests for example things you could spend a grand on at dealer type prices, or more--the reference to "some rattles and basic wear/tear" items. Who knows what else? On my own rides, my final warranty fix bill is often literally a couple of grand. On D3 W12 it was more.
On your rattle mention BTW, you and they should look carefully at both the sway bar links and the upper control arm bushings in front. Both are known S8/A8 wear areas, both D4 and D3. When I say get under, I really mean that. Take all the covers off and look for any evidence of any kind of fluid. On D3 A8 W12, that got me all of a new radiator (minor seepage), new and very painful to replace valve cover gaskets on both sides, and an out of this world labor cost avoidance (10-20 hours!!) for the engine torque mount on a W12. All tied to fluids I found, typically small quantities and nothing smoking or any warning lights and such.
A scan may well find things buried in the modules that you won't pick up unless a light comes on or something is yet more obvious. But in a year or two, presto you come to find out. To be clear, a VCDS scan that reaches into all the electronics, not the throw away OBDII motor only type generic code readers. Finally, go over every electrical item and switch in the car, very systematically. You can do that yourself separate from any mechanic look see for the drivetrain and electronic scan. Thus, all the HVAC, every window, every seat, al the driver's switches around wheel and IP, and so on. Same as you would do with a really careful and pricy used car purchase if you want to save money and hassle. This month you just have to find it. Next month you still have to find it, but now you pay for it at Audi prices too.
On your rattle mention BTW, you and they should look carefully at both the sway bar links and the upper control arm bushings in front. Both are known S8/A8 wear areas, both D4 and D3. When I say get under, I really mean that. Take all the covers off and look for any evidence of any kind of fluid. On D3 A8 W12, that got me all of a new radiator (minor seepage), new and very painful to replace valve cover gaskets on both sides, and an out of this world labor cost avoidance (10-20 hours!!) for the engine torque mount on a W12. All tied to fluids I found, typically small quantities and nothing smoking or any warning lights and such.
A scan may well find things buried in the modules that you won't pick up unless a light comes on or something is yet more obvious. But in a year or two, presto you come to find out. To be clear, a VCDS scan that reaches into all the electronics, not the throw away OBDII motor only type generic code readers. Finally, go over every electrical item and switch in the car, very systematically. You can do that yourself separate from any mechanic look see for the drivetrain and electronic scan. Thus, all the HVAC, every window, every seat, al the driver's switches around wheel and IP, and so on. Same as you would do with a really careful and pricy used car purchase if you want to save money and hassle. This month you just have to find it. Next month you still have to find it, but now you pay for it at Audi prices too.
The following users liked this post:
Smiling Away (05-20-2024)
11-28-2017, 11:20 AM
#4
So, being honest I would say either climb over and especially under the car and also scan it with VCDS, or ... have an indy do the same. You'll find a few tips here, but each car may have its own issues to be tracked down. Basically do (or have done) a careful pre purchase inspection. Well worth it. Your original post suggests for example things you could spend a grand on at dealer type prices, or more--the reference to "some rattles and basic wear/tear" items. Who knows what else? On my own rides, my final warranty fix bill is often literally a couple of grand. On D3 W12 it was more.
On your rattle mention BTW, you and they should look carefully at both the sway bar links and the upper control arm bushings in front. Both are known S8/A8 wear areas, both D4 and D3. When I say get under, I really mean that. Take all the covers off and look for any evidence of any kind of fluid. On D3 A8 W12, that got me all of a new radiator (minor seepage), new and very painful to replace valve cover gaskets on both sides, and an out of this world labor cost avoidance (10-20 hours!!) for the engine torque mount on a W12. All tied to fluids I found, typically small quantities and nothing smoking or any warning lights and such.
A scan may well find things buried in the modules that you won't pick up unless a light comes on or something is yet more obvious. But in a year or two, presto you come to find out. To be clear, a VCDS scan that reaches into all the electronics, not the throw away OBDII motor only type generic code readers. Finally, go over every electrical item and switch in the car, very systematically. You can do that yourself separate from any mechanic look see for the drivetrain and electronic scan. Thus, all the HVAC, every window, every seat, al the driver's switches around wheel and IP, and so on. Same as you would do with a really careful and pricy used car purchase if you want to save money and hassle. This month you just have to find it. Next month you still have to find it, but now you pay for it at Audi prices too.
On your rattle mention BTW, you and they should look carefully at both the sway bar links and the upper control arm bushings in front. Both are known S8/A8 wear areas, both D4 and D3. When I say get under, I really mean that. Take all the covers off and look for any evidence of any kind of fluid. On D3 A8 W12, that got me all of a new radiator (minor seepage), new and very painful to replace valve cover gaskets on both sides, and an out of this world labor cost avoidance (10-20 hours!!) for the engine torque mount on a W12. All tied to fluids I found, typically small quantities and nothing smoking or any warning lights and such.
A scan may well find things buried in the modules that you won't pick up unless a light comes on or something is yet more obvious. But in a year or two, presto you come to find out. To be clear, a VCDS scan that reaches into all the electronics, not the throw away OBDII motor only type generic code readers. Finally, go over every electrical item and switch in the car, very systematically. You can do that yourself separate from any mechanic look see for the drivetrain and electronic scan. Thus, all the HVAC, every window, every seat, al the driver's switches around wheel and IP, and so on. Same as you would do with a really careful and pricy used car purchase if you want to save money and hassle. This month you just have to find it. Next month you still have to find it, but now you pay for it at Audi prices too.
Never allow free labor go to waste
12-12-2017, 07:58 PM
#5
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So, being honest I would say either climb over and especially under the car and also scan it with VCDS, or ... have an indy do the same. You'll find a few tips here, but each car may have its own issues to be tracked down. Basically do (or have done) a careful pre purchase inspection. Well worth it. Your original post suggests for example things you could spend a grand on at dealer type prices, or more--the reference to "some rattles and basic wear/tear" items. Who knows what else? On my own rides, my final warranty fix bill is often literally a couple of grand. On D3 W12 it was more.
On your rattle mention BTW, you and they should look carefully at both the sway bar links and the upper control arm bushings in front. Both are known S8/A8 wear areas, both D4 and D3. When I say get under, I really mean that. Take all the covers off and look for any evidence of any kind of fluid. On D3 A8 W12, that got me all of a new radiator (minor seepage), new and very painful to replace valve cover gaskets on both sides, and an out of this world labor cost avoidance (10-20 hours!!) for the engine torque mount on a W12. All tied to fluids I found, typically small quantities and nothing smoking or any warning lights and such.
A scan may well find things buried in the modules that you won't pick up unless a light comes on or something is yet more obvious. But in a year or two, presto you come to find out. To be clear, a VCDS scan that reaches into all the electronics, not the throw away OBDII motor only type generic code readers. Finally, go over every electrical item and switch in the car, very systematically. You can do that yourself separate from any mechanic look see for the drivetrain and electronic scan. Thus, all the HVAC, every window, every seat, al the driver's switches around wheel and IP, and so on. Same as you would do with a really careful and pricy used car purchase if you want to save money and hassle. This month you just have to find it. Next month you still have to find it, but now you pay for it at Audi prices too.
On your rattle mention BTW, you and they should look carefully at both the sway bar links and the upper control arm bushings in front. Both are known S8/A8 wear areas, both D4 and D3. When I say get under, I really mean that. Take all the covers off and look for any evidence of any kind of fluid. On D3 A8 W12, that got me all of a new radiator (minor seepage), new and very painful to replace valve cover gaskets on both sides, and an out of this world labor cost avoidance (10-20 hours!!) for the engine torque mount on a W12. All tied to fluids I found, typically small quantities and nothing smoking or any warning lights and such.
A scan may well find things buried in the modules that you won't pick up unless a light comes on or something is yet more obvious. But in a year or two, presto you come to find out. To be clear, a VCDS scan that reaches into all the electronics, not the throw away OBDII motor only type generic code readers. Finally, go over every electrical item and switch in the car, very systematically. You can do that yourself separate from any mechanic look see for the drivetrain and electronic scan. Thus, all the HVAC, every window, every seat, al the driver's switches around wheel and IP, and so on. Same as you would do with a really careful and pricy used car purchase if you want to save money and hassle. This month you just have to find it. Next month you still have to find it, but now you pay for it at Audi prices too.
12-12-2017, 08:41 PM
#6
AudiWorld Super User
Unfortunately that looks sort of like some kind of generic scanning on shop equipment that ultimately may not be seeing into the various electronic units and subsystems. It obviously is far more than a generic OBDII code reader though. There are probably 50 or more modules now in well equipped Audis if I count them all up. I saw more like a dozen but a lot in inconclusive ways. Maybe it scanned more modules though and you just took pics of the odd looking ones? What is in there is sort of a mix of stuff that sounds like the scan tool has some smarts about Audis, but then it spits out a report that seems sort of like it may not really be reading the module adequately. If this were VCDS, it would be more obvious and clear.
From what is flagged there, the only one that I can guess may be pointing at a real issue is the one about the defroster door. The HVAC system has a lot of flaps (doors) that are actuated to redirect air flow. Codes akin to that show up when a door is hanging up, whether due to a motor drive failure, just being jammed somehow or various other things. Some are easy to reach, some nightmares can get at pulling a lot of dash apart to reach. No idea of how difficult dealing with the flagged one is, or if it is just a little balky rather than an issue that matters.
You also have a couple of codes suggesting maybe something is up with adaptive cruise. The adaptive cruise one of course, but maybe the distance control one too (I'm not sure on latter without more searching). If you don't already use it, try checking adaptive in upcoming drives and be sure it functions properly.
One way to deal with question areas if you are going in for sunroof motor, you could just report to dealer that you sense the defrost function on the right side window area is acting up--not working well sometimes. Mention a mechanic looked at it and thought similarly. Can they take a look and maybe scan it to see if something is up in the HVAC system. Basically give them a decent breadcrumb trail and something actionable. I had to replace the sunroof air deflector lift motor on my D3 later on BTW; not sure if you mean that or the main drive motor.
From what is flagged there, the only one that I can guess may be pointing at a real issue is the one about the defroster door. The HVAC system has a lot of flaps (doors) that are actuated to redirect air flow. Codes akin to that show up when a door is hanging up, whether due to a motor drive failure, just being jammed somehow or various other things. Some are easy to reach, some nightmares can get at pulling a lot of dash apart to reach. No idea of how difficult dealing with the flagged one is, or if it is just a little balky rather than an issue that matters.
You also have a couple of codes suggesting maybe something is up with adaptive cruise. The adaptive cruise one of course, but maybe the distance control one too (I'm not sure on latter without more searching). If you don't already use it, try checking adaptive in upcoming drives and be sure it functions properly.
One way to deal with question areas if you are going in for sunroof motor, you could just report to dealer that you sense the defrost function on the right side window area is acting up--not working well sometimes. Mention a mechanic looked at it and thought similarly. Can they take a look and maybe scan it to see if something is up in the HVAC system. Basically give them a decent breadcrumb trail and something actionable. I had to replace the sunroof air deflector lift motor on my D3 later on BTW; not sure if you mean that or the main drive motor.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 12-12-2017 at 08:59 PM.
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