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Can I do front pads on these rotors and then order new rotors to replace or would I need new pads again? I appreciate the help.
Depends on timings. Will you get new Front rotors for sure? How long will the new pads be run on the old rotors? I would think old pads on new rotors (when you replace) is less detrimental then new pads on old rotors. Pads are cheaper then rotors usually. Some pads wear out iron rotors more then usual. Not sure if this could be measured, but it happens.
Either way, you are NOT in max performance. That might be noise, pedal feel, stopping power and most of all, stopping stability. "Pulsing" rotors shake like mad and worse at high speeds. More chance of this experience with the game that you play, which is mix match of old and new brake HW. No judgement here, I've played that game before. Good luck.
That type of wear is common on euro cars from the dozens I have seen/worked on and provided it's not shaking or in the wear sensors it is not necessarily a bad thing assuming you have the normal sliding calipers.
As far far as replacing rotors VS resurfacing very very very few modern cars have thick enough rotors to ensure they won't warp the first time you do a hard 70-0 or a 130-40 stop. With the wear you are seeing it's going to be very very unlikely there will be enough thickness to remove the surface ridges/waves and still leave enough mass to avoid warping.
For all my personal cars I always get new rotors.......but that's just how I approach it.
Last edited by Striker2237; 09-04-2021 at 09:28 PM.
Hi, my main reason is to not cause more damage to any other brake components. The rotors i need look to be at least a week away shipping and the audi options at my local dealer are $590 a piece. Ive called three shops and they cant even locate them.
I also cant find a shop that will turn them for me.
Im ok with eating the $130 on pads if I cant toss them on and change rotors in a couple weeks. I just dont want to be unsafe in the car.
I just did brakes on my car front and rear and I ordered oem rotors and pads for 900 shipped. ecstuning
Anyone who thinks ECS pricing is good for OE parts really ought to look around... About the last place I look for "value" pricing. Good part number references usually and often THE place for the best pictures of a part. But usually not on my go-to list save for a few items. Sort of the opposite to be honest--look there first for about the highest price logical to be paid for OE and then go from there.
Since they probably source from a dealer for actual OE, you are likely paying two mark ups. Here are screen shots from today of various A8/S8 rotor sizing from one of the on line Audi dealers--one mark up, not two. If you time it right, you can also sometimes pick up a 10 percent off or so (occasionally up to 20%) sale. With a part #, you can honestly also go on eBay, where some (not all) of the discount dealers post. Those listings also tend to pull in the Zimmerman ones where available for the given size.
Anyone who thinks ECS pricing is good for OE parts really ought to look around... About the last place I look for "value" pricing. Good part number references usually and often THE place for the best pictures of a part. But usually not on my go-to list save for a few items. Sort of the opposite to be honest--look there first for about the highest price logical to be paid for OE and then go from there.
Since they probably source from a dealer for actual OE, you are likely paying two mark ups. Here are screen shots from today of various A8/S8 rotor sizing from one of the on line Audi dealers--one mark up, not two. If you time it right, you can also sometimes pick up a 10 percent off or so (occasionally up to 20%) sale. With a part #, you can honestly also go on eBay, where some (not all) of the discount dealers post. Those listings also tend to pull in the Zimmerman ones where available for the given size.
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My local indy mechanic sources rotors from FREMAX and used them on my Q7 last time... same quasi two piece floating design and they are something like 380mm and they were maybe $400 for the front two...
I would agree, if you can get the P/N you can find them on ebay. Also, if you call your local audi dealer parts department they usually will take 20% off fairly easily if you ask. They make a ton of money on the margin on parts, so if you sound like you're serious, sometimes you can swing a deal.
Also in regards to that screenshot, there shouldn't be any such things as left or right rotors for those cars, they are the same side to side in the front and rear...
Additionally, I would not turn rotors.
And to the person who has 190K miles on original rotors, I have no idea what you are doing that all of us are not doing, but I am kind of speechless. Note too the rears in these cars will get eaten up quickly if you use a lot of adaptive cruise, since the brake bias is towards the rear to keep the car flat when moderately slowing down with ACC for comfort...
And to the person who has 190K miles on original rotors, I have no idea what you are doing that all of us are not doing, but I am kind of speechless.
I replaced the original pads at the first brake lite on the dash with ceramic PowerStop pads from RockAuto, and they do not eat the rotors like the stock pads do.
I did not bother turning the discs or even bother to try. I took a 4" hand grinder to the outside and inside lips of all 4 of the discs turning with the car running on jack stands and in gear with all four wheels off that the stock pads had created on the discs. I didi have to clear the code for anti-lock brakes or something like that when I was done with the VCDS.
Since going to the ceramic PowerStop pads, the discs have not worn whatsoever, and I'll be able to just swap another set of PowerStop pads on to them again without installing new discs again too. I love the PowerStop pads as brake dust and disc wear is non existant.