Oil Drain Bolt Torque value
09-05-2016, 08:29 PM
#1
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Oil Drain Bolt Torque value
Does anybody out there know the correct foot pounds of torque that should be used on the 3.0 liter engine on a 2016 Audi A8L. Thanks to anyone that knows.
My first oil change and I'd like to switch the standard bolt with an ECS magnetic drain bolt, it's a pain but you really need to do it only once so it's no big deal, thanks again.
The Grey Ghost
My first oil change and I'd like to switch the standard bolt with an ECS magnetic drain bolt, it's a pain but you really need to do it only once so it's no big deal, thanks again.
The Grey Ghost
09-06-2016, 04:52 AM
#2
AudiWorld Super User
You know, I've never used a specified torque for drain plugs. It's not a high pressure system, I've always used my judgement and just made sure it was snug. Never had a leak over the years. Is the stock plug not magnetic? I was under the impression it was or at least that there was a magnet somewhere in the pan.
09-06-2016, 02:45 PM
#3
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
Drain Bolt is not magnetic
No, the drain bolt is not magnetic. The only drain bolt from the factory that I am sure of is that MB auto trans don't have drain bolts but they in fact have a replaceable magnet in the ZF 7 speed series auto trans, which if you let the dealer do the tranny fluid change, he will charge you $35 for the magnet which must cost MB all of $5 if that much. I understand you prefer to just tighten your oil drain bolt, if you feel comfortable with that than of course that what you should do, I'd prefer to know. With that, if anybody knows pass it on, thanks.
PS - I talked to one of the mechanics at my local Audi dealer and he told me he's never even seen one much less removed one, he went on to tell me about the oil dipstick removal method, which is fine but it doesn't solve the problem of ridding the engine of the micro pieces of metal flake from the engine oil where it sits until it is removed and just changing the oil doesn't do the job, I suppose most folks don't care.
PS - I talked to one of the mechanics at my local Audi dealer and he told me he's never even seen one much less removed one, he went on to tell me about the oil dipstick removal method, which is fine but it doesn't solve the problem of ridding the engine of the micro pieces of metal flake from the engine oil where it sits until it is removed and just changing the oil doesn't do the job, I suppose most folks don't care.
09-06-2016, 11:04 PM
#4
AudiWorld Super User
PS - I talked to one of the mechanics at my local Audi dealer and he told me he's never even seen one much less removed one, he went on to tell me about the oil dipstick removal method, which is fine but it doesn't solve the problem of ridding the engine of the micro pieces of metal flake from the engine oil where it sits until it is removed and just changing the oil doesn't do the job, I suppose most folks don't care.
Besides that, despite people's love for saving time or not getting dirty or whatever, it loses one of best simple car diagnostics around. Tied to me actually with running a VCDS scan. First missed blown CV boot leading to new joint replacement job if not caught fast leading to thousand dollar bills at dealer prices changes one's tune real fast--just to name one. Tranny or diff leak not caught can be even more eyeopening, or various that leave you on side of road in a storm or Crime Central at 1 am in worst scenarios. That is, getting under there, especially under motor and tranny area and looking for leaks, loose parts, torn CV boots, etc. Several of those are on the routine Audi maintenance lists too, so how exactly do they do those either with the pump and run approach? I get it for a DIY'er in winter in cold or something, but no excuse for pump and run if owners is paying full boat for (non-existent) full service and actually doing the checklist instead of wink wink crap.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 09-06-2016 at 11:18 PM.
09-07-2016, 08:06 AM
#5
AudiWorld Super User
On original post BTW, for torque I just do it by feel--and 40 years experience.
BUT, backing up a step or two. From having gone the "cheap" way more than a few times, one thing I would say is you want to replace the sealing washer. That is the one way I have seen it leak a fair number of times on a variety of Audis is not to replace the washer. Older Audis used to use larger diameter crush washers. Newer ones seem mostly to be a relatively small washer, either copper or aluminum, relatively tightly fit to the drain bolt. The standard dealer part these days is often a bolt and washer so the techs don't even spend time changing the washer. Obviously the crush ones loose their effectiveness after they have been smashed down after a time or two--though are good for torque by feel. The newer style can get little grooves and mars with reuse that seem correlated with some seeping I have seen one full change cycles. What is the plan there w/ the ECS plug? Buy Audi or generic seal rings?
FWIW, to me this is a situation that does not really need solving. If a filter can't catch it even on single pass, something is wrong. And, I just would not put any non factory part on an oil pan during warranty. Any incident remotely associated with it can raise a needless additional warranty point--who changed oil, when, if it comes undone, major major problem, etc. Similarly why I wouldn't use the beer keg tap ones; any opening of those and I would expect a warranty punch. Having pulled probably 15 or 20 pans in my time, the only situation I have found anything in there metallic is when motor is already gone--failing rod bearing usually though one time when I pulled my dad home (with a rope...) after he reported "it just gradually lost power." Bless his memory. Yep no water followed by piston meltdown will sort of do that. As a trivia point, with Audi typical aluminum pistons even those chunks won't stick to the magnet anyway. By contrast, yes lots of stuff in tranny pans, which on Audis normally have magnets. But with clutches internally really a different design and use scenario than motors, and a very basic filter many never change or open.
BUT, backing up a step or two. From having gone the "cheap" way more than a few times, one thing I would say is you want to replace the sealing washer. That is the one way I have seen it leak a fair number of times on a variety of Audis is not to replace the washer. Older Audis used to use larger diameter crush washers. Newer ones seem mostly to be a relatively small washer, either copper or aluminum, relatively tightly fit to the drain bolt. The standard dealer part these days is often a bolt and washer so the techs don't even spend time changing the washer. Obviously the crush ones loose their effectiveness after they have been smashed down after a time or two--though are good for torque by feel. The newer style can get little grooves and mars with reuse that seem correlated with some seeping I have seen one full change cycles. What is the plan there w/ the ECS plug? Buy Audi or generic seal rings?
FWIW, to me this is a situation that does not really need solving. If a filter can't catch it even on single pass, something is wrong. And, I just would not put any non factory part on an oil pan during warranty. Any incident remotely associated with it can raise a needless additional warranty point--who changed oil, when, if it comes undone, major major problem, etc. Similarly why I wouldn't use the beer keg tap ones; any opening of those and I would expect a warranty punch. Having pulled probably 15 or 20 pans in my time, the only situation I have found anything in there metallic is when motor is already gone--failing rod bearing usually though one time when I pulled my dad home (with a rope...) after he reported "it just gradually lost power." Bless his memory. Yep no water followed by piston meltdown will sort of do that. As a trivia point, with Audi typical aluminum pistons even those chunks won't stick to the magnet anyway. By contrast, yes lots of stuff in tranny pans, which on Audis normally have magnets. But with clutches internally really a different design and use scenario than motors, and a very basic filter many never change or open.
Last edited by MP4.2+6.0; 09-07-2016 at 08:15 AM.
09-07-2016, 08:11 AM
#6
AudiWorld Super User
I put an ECS magnetic bolt in my Passat because the old bolt was looking a little chewed up and the ECS part was on sale. It came with 10 washers.
I'm with MP on the warranty issue. But it's pretty low risk.
Also I've only been wrenching since the age of twelve so I only have 30 years experience. Therefore MP's advice is probably better.
I'm with MP on the warranty issue. But it's pretty low risk.
Also I've only been wrenching since the age of twelve so I only have 30 years experience. Therefore MP's advice is probably better.
09-07-2016, 11:48 AM
#7
AudiWorld Member
Thread Starter
After calling 5 different Audi dealers who all said the same thing (they must teach these jimmy-jack kids they call mechanics to never give out any information to the customers so the customer can never be sure if what they're doing is right or wrong, hence on a big issue item they try to force the customer into taking the car to the dealers shop where what passes as a mechanic is laughable). In any case, the correct torque for the oil drain bolt on a 2016 Audi A8L is in fact 22 foot pounds.