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Suspension Stiff Problem 2011 A8/D4

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Old 05-23-2021, 08:27 AM
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No, there is no more shut off error. I noticed, when i turn on the "air. suspension. wheel change mode", this fault code occur.

Can't we see the J197 and J849 modules are working correctly via VCDS? or if this parts adaptation is wrong how can we re-adapt? VCDS can't it?

Can't we watch J197 Current via VCDS measuring blocks?

-------------------


Normal - Auto Mode


Auto mode - Rise



i try this output setting (i dont know normally is it working but) not workings for me.




Old 05-23-2021, 10:48 AM
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These are all good questions and the answers to which I don’t know. I do know that you cannot change damping unless the car is in motion. Try again with the car in motion, the module must receive signal from the ABS sensor.
Old 05-24-2021, 08:58 AM
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What if i change the relay? There is no relay error but on the internet i see somebody change the relay?
Old 05-26-2021, 01:02 AM
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Yesterday, i check the relay and track the measures of Amper. it looks normal. am i right? (system pressure is 0.1 bar always is it normal?)


comfort + raise while driving

driving

Car stopped. idle.

Fuse box

relay and fuses looks normal

Last edited by grkmspr; 05-26-2021 at 01:36 AM.
Old 05-26-2021, 02:59 AM
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Before hooking up VCDS, either connect a battery charger or keep the engine running.

If you took your car to the dealer the first thing they would probably recommend is a new battery.
Your scan shows 11.1 volts
even with engine off that is low.

once that is addressed, then the errors in the ABS brakes module need to be addressed next.



Last edited by Dville; 05-26-2021 at 03:02 AM.
Old 05-26-2021, 05:42 AM
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At this point I would highly recommend driving another A8 with as close of specs as possible to your own car (engine, wheel size, sport/non sport suspension) and see what the difference is. As the current for the dampers is correct and there seem to be no error codes for the suspension system and ride height is appropriate there are two possibilities as I see it:

1) there is a problem outside of the pneumatic system causing a harsh ride, worn bushings, hard dry rotted tires, things like that which come with age. At 140km everything should be in reasonable shape unless it spent its life on rough roads

2) the car simply doesn’t meet your expectations. There’s a chance there’s nothing wrong and the car simply isn’t as smooth as you imagined. Unless you’re driven other similar D4s you can’t write this off just yet.

You mention squeaks and rattles, there are two issues that I know of that make the D4 seem like a much cheaper car than it is: the anti roll bar links in the front make a terrible racket when they go bad- a kind of harsh rubber squeaking noise. And the dash on non-full leather cars creak and crackle, all in thanks to the two piece design.
Old 05-26-2021, 06:53 AM
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Good points.
post the brand and size of your tires.
what wheels do you have?
size and style?
Old 05-26-2021, 08:26 AM
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Hello, My car has 20" alloy tires.
​​​​​​275/40 R20 New purchased Bridgestone alenza 001.

i have diagnose the ride systems to 2 another car workshop and two of him said the front whisbone link needs to be replace. And I change them. (also front coupling rod) Nothing noticed.

Now, i have no chance to try another vehicle. I also want it to try. And i cant belive this Car's comfort is bad like this. Road sound, harsh suspension. I feel Every road lane, road fault. Vehicle not smooth too dynamic. Car does not spring.spring. I am not boss, but if I am, ı would throw this car into trash .

On the road every little up and down moment Rear seat entertainment system has squezy sounds, air vents also.

Complete anti roll bar is expensive, what if i only change the rubbers, is it solve the problem?

my friends 2004 model Toyota has better comfort.




I also had doubts about the anti roll bar, because of car but the masters did not say anything. i will plan to change the rubbers.

and now i am reading the syptoms of bad anti roll bar, i have these symtoms.

Edit: i order, 8K0411327B (front anti roll bar rubbers) and 1K0511327AQ (rear anti roll bar rubbers). When i install the new ones i will inform here the changes.

Last edited by grkmspr; 05-26-2021 at 08:18 PM. Reason: Complete anti roll bar is expensive, what if i only change the rubbers, is it solve the problem?
Old 06-30-2021, 03:05 AM
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When it comes to suspension issues, almost any fault will cause a cascade of other faults. If you see "fault due to faults in other modules" error, look for the core fault. I had three things cause a suspension and other faults on my 2013. One was a wheel speed sensor which disables all manner of stuff including suspension and the other was a ride height sensor link which caused the same thing. Another time I had a strange lean code which would up being an air filter issue. This also caused a MIL light, suspension fault, ACC, fault, etc.

Until all faults are resolved, expect a very harsh ride indeed.
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Old 07-19-2021, 02:17 AM
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I'm sorry for the late reply. I have changed my anti roll bar bushes. But only the front roll bar bushes can change. Rear antiroll bar bush can't fit, both bush is the same code, same brand (VAG) original, but it didn't fit. It looks like rear bush When compressed, it takes the shape of a sway bar. But the master can't fit it rear bush so i changed only front bush. i looked at the workshop manual and it says don't remove bush from the antiroll bar. Is anybody know how can i install new bush? because in my cars service history it looks like rear bushes changed 2 times before at the dealer.

well after i change the front bushes, didn't notice anything.


new

old

new-old



and In this process, I tried to understand my car. My guess is the suspensions are working correctly. because when I go into bumps slowly, the suspensions spring up nicely. But when I go through bumps fast or in potholes, the car hits with a high-pitched sound instead of a solid one. and everything in the car crackles.

Last edited by grkmspr; 07-19-2021 at 02:50 AM. Reason: last note


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