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So today I picked my car up from the Audi of Cool spring .
I was inquiring about transmission fluid replacement and filter and check to see how health the turbos are.
Turbos $ 480 plus tax Transmission fluid/filter $ 2400 plus tax.
Talk about a fkn crime...
GPO did a build on my S7. Probably reach out to Corey.
Thanks
Sounds good. Insist on OE trans fluid - not Liqui Moly. It caused havok in my S8 when they did my trans service because they did not use OE fluid. Corey is aware of this and would have prevented it from happening in the first place if he had known. Corey doesn't spend as much time in the shop as he used to. Its going to cost you more but will save you some aggravation.
From D3 experience, suggesting doing at least a 2x cycle change on it--all during one service, with a warm up to operating temp in between. Audi used to say 3x in its definitive D3 tranny fluid related TSB. That's because of what is left behind in torque converter, cooling related passages, valve body, etc. My field measurement from D3 (6 speed) said about 55% comes out, and 45% stays behind. Thus takes 2x cycles to get to 80%. 55% + (.45 x.55) = 0.8. Takes a third cycle to get close to 90%.
From draining it first person, on second drain it is still noticably dirty, On third drain it is close to starting fluid color. Visually that helped confirm to me 3x was fine but dimishing returns. From 1x to 2x was meaningful.
Basically costs another 5 or 6 liters of fluid, another hour of time. You only do filter once--if you do it since it's a pan drop (and I think on the 8 speed built into pan itself?). Only do the final level setting and check once. I pump it full after drain, then start, then pump it full again when still cold. The tranny fluid pump action pulls level down when running. Then I quickly close it up for any planned further drain--as it heats it will also overflow around a liter if you pump it full when still close to cold. That nuance is probably what gets to 80% or so on drain #2. With no pan pull or filter change, you come up with somewhat less (at least a liter) drained if you start from the spec standard level setting done as the work wraps up.
Yes, use the OE fluid--ZF. Widely available online and you can price shop it if DIY. Shops presumably can get easily too.