1992 audi 100 won't start. HELP
03-18-2008, 03:45 AM
#13
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Re: That's the separator between DTCs. you're getting 4444 (no codes stored). So...
Using a standard spark plug tester. One end attaches to plug the other end attaches to plug wire from coil pack. I even tested the tester on another car the make sure it was working. Found no problem with the tester. I checked the coil packs all wires are attached and sound. Nicely tucked under each coil pack. The timing belt is nice an tight, If the timing belt did jump a tooth, what is the process for checing this?
03-18-2008, 04:15 AM
#14
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Hmmm....lets go back to flashing codes one more time
did you by chance 'clear the codes' before flashing them? ...or maybe you have one of the ECUs that require jumping the pins to advance to the next code.
the writeup at 12v.org says:
"On some 1992-1993 models (those with the MMS200 ECU), if you have multiple DTCs stored you need to momentarily connect the pins (the ones you just shorted) to advance from the currently displayed code before the next code will be displayed.
When you have looked at the codes, fixed the problems, and are ready to test your work, you can clear all of the DTCs by shorting the other two pins on the two connectors for three seconds."
If the codes were cleared then you'd have to crank the engine again to generate new DTCs. The memory in the ECU is supposed to be non-volatile, though I suppose there's a chance it could malfuntion and lose the codes when the ignition is turned off. If it were me, I'd crank the engine for 10 seconds, leave the ignition on, and start the code check sequence.
It sounds like you checked for spark appropriately. Might not hurt to double check, just to be sure. I like to clamp a spare plug to a good ground with a pair of locking pliers, hook a plug wire to it, and crank.
Then it might be time to inspect the wiring harness in the "whip zone" very carefully for evidence of any damage. Sometimes these old wires get brittle and can fail. After that, I'd try swapping in a known good ECU. The Bentley repair manual has a lengthy procedure for testing the ECU inputs/outputs and wiring harness. You can pick up the Bentley on CD or DVD for around $70 here:<ul><li><a href="http://www.bimmerzone.com/audimanuals.htm">http://www.bimmerzone.com/audimanuals.htm</a</li></ul>
the writeup at 12v.org says:
"On some 1992-1993 models (those with the MMS200 ECU), if you have multiple DTCs stored you need to momentarily connect the pins (the ones you just shorted) to advance from the currently displayed code before the next code will be displayed.
When you have looked at the codes, fixed the problems, and are ready to test your work, you can clear all of the DTCs by shorting the other two pins on the two connectors for three seconds."
If the codes were cleared then you'd have to crank the engine again to generate new DTCs. The memory in the ECU is supposed to be non-volatile, though I suppose there's a chance it could malfuntion and lose the codes when the ignition is turned off. If it were me, I'd crank the engine for 10 seconds, leave the ignition on, and start the code check sequence.
It sounds like you checked for spark appropriately. Might not hurt to double check, just to be sure. I like to clamp a spare plug to a good ground with a pair of locking pliers, hook a plug wire to it, and crank.
Then it might be time to inspect the wiring harness in the "whip zone" very carefully for evidence of any damage. Sometimes these old wires get brittle and can fail. After that, I'd try swapping in a known good ECU. The Bentley repair manual has a lengthy procedure for testing the ECU inputs/outputs and wiring harness. You can pick up the Bentley on CD or DVD for around $70 here:<ul><li><a href="http://www.bimmerzone.com/audimanuals.htm">http://www.bimmerzone.com/audimanuals.htm</a</li></ul>
03-18-2008, 04:40 AM
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Re: Hmmm....lets go back to flashing codes one more time
I printed the write-up at 12v.org. Tried all test, as you suggest, just to be sure! I have looked and looked for any wire, hose, harness that might be damaged. Have fixed quite a few hoses but no wires or harnesses. I am lost at this point.
03-18-2008, 11:01 AM
#20
Austindo hit the nail on the head, IMHO.
"The timing belt is fine and everything is moving."
This is not convincing. Sounds like you popped the covers off and looked at the belt. That's not good enough. You need to verify that the cams are in time.
It is not uncommon for bits of a damaged serp belt to get jammed under the lower timing cover and force the belt to jump.
Check the cam timing.
This is not convincing. Sounds like you popped the covers off and looked at the belt. That's not good enough. You need to verify that the cams are in time.
It is not uncommon for bits of a damaged serp belt to get jammed under the lower timing cover and force the belt to jump.
Check the cam timing.