About to undertake a BIG job and looking for advice
#1
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Well i was just in Germany so i picked up a few things for my 1992 Audi 100cs which include;
Head Cover Gaskets
Valve Cover Gaskets
Valve Rings
Timing Belt
Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley
Timing Belt Idler Pulley
Water Pump
Accessory Belt
Both Oil Pan Gaskets
Trans Pan Gasket
Spark Plugs & New Wires
I plan on starting this job in a few days and was wondering if anyone knows where i can get the tech data on setting the timing belt and if its possible to get it without buying that expensive manual. Also any other bits of advice that people want to give me and if it looks like I forgot anything please either post it or send me an email...
Head Cover Gaskets
Valve Cover Gaskets
Valve Rings
Timing Belt
Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley
Timing Belt Idler Pulley
Water Pump
Accessory Belt
Both Oil Pan Gaskets
Trans Pan Gasket
Spark Plugs & New Wires
I plan on starting this job in a few days and was wondering if anyone knows where i can get the tech data on setting the timing belt and if its possible to get it without buying that expensive manual. Also any other bits of advice that people want to give me and if it looks like I forgot anything please either post it or send me an email...
#3
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They are not to expensive and much easier to change when you have everything pulled apart. Also maybe the oil cooler seal.
#4
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I just did all of that to mine last weekend. It only took me an evening to do the timing belt and all associated with it. There are two main things I would suggest you watch out for.
1. Don't strip the $!@#$ bolts that hold the crank shaft pulley to the dampner. The lame hex head WILL strip, and yes, I am speaking from experience. If you have an air ratchet (a RATCHET not a torque wrench) I would use it on those. after I screwed up, I did the rest with my air ratchet and I think it puts a more even torque on them so they are less likely to strip. Also, clean out the hex head with a little pin or whatever and blow the dirt out. This will insure that your hex drive is seating as far into the head as possible and minimize the chance of stripping.
If you do strip one, the way I remedied it was to use a Dremel with the long bendy extension drive thing on it. I spent HOURS grinding down the head and once I could get the pulley off, I was able to remove the rest of the bolt by hand... trust me, you don't want to do this.
2. Bleed the air out of the system after you get it all put back together. I mean REALLY bleed it. Let it run for a long time with the cover off of the tank. Massage the hoses a little bit as it warms up... she likes that. Use the bleeder screws. You might not get it all out the first time, so let it cool down over night and do it again.
-Good Luck
1. Don't strip the $!@#$ bolts that hold the crank shaft pulley to the dampner. The lame hex head WILL strip, and yes, I am speaking from experience. If you have an air ratchet (a RATCHET not a torque wrench) I would use it on those. after I screwed up, I did the rest with my air ratchet and I think it puts a more even torque on them so they are less likely to strip. Also, clean out the hex head with a little pin or whatever and blow the dirt out. This will insure that your hex drive is seating as far into the head as possible and minimize the chance of stripping.
If you do strip one, the way I remedied it was to use a Dremel with the long bendy extension drive thing on it. I spent HOURS grinding down the head and once I could get the pulley off, I was able to remove the rest of the bolt by hand... trust me, you don't want to do this.
2. Bleed the air out of the system after you get it all put back together. I mean REALLY bleed it. Let it run for a long time with the cover off of the tank. Massage the hoses a little bit as it warms up... she likes that. Use the bleeder screws. You might not get it all out the first time, so let it cool down over night and do it again.
-Good Luck
#5
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of the cooling system. I drain the radiator by removing the fan switch, it just unplugs and unscrews. Flush several times, including draining the engine block. A T-handle 8mm allen wrench is the right tool to drain the block. Just follow the procedure in 12v.org for the timing belt replacement, through the draining procedure. Then run prestone "super radiator cleaner" (NOT SUPERFLUSH) through the system for 4 to 6 hours, do it over maybe two days (go take a drive for fun) then get it out of there and do your service. My experience is that this chemical often damages waterpumps (which you are replacing) and hoses (if you leave it in too long), but it cleans really good and you won't believe the crap you'll get out of there. And boy, will it make a difference.
Jim
'97 A6qw
Jim
'97 A6qw
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How much is a full timing belt replacement going to cost me and whats the breakdown of parts / labor
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