DHaralson

Hi Folks, original issue in the thread below.

https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/80185.phtml

Visited the alignment shop yesterday to figure out which tie rod I need to adjust to help get the rig back to normal. I need to fix the drivers side as suspected. Hopefully this weekend.

Anyway, they also say my camber is out of whack pretty good and claim I need to get the frame checked. However, the camber has never been an issue previously on this car. It has no accidents, at least none that were reported to CarFax.

Looking for opinions. It has new front struts on both sides completed in January of 2007 w/new mounts and bearings. It was aligned at that time w/no issues for camber. Now that the new control arms, sway bars are in there, it's all out of whack (tie rods are part of the problem which I'm working on fixing).

Anyway, I think I should re-check and attempt to re-tighten the nuts for the sway bar at the control arm connection. I surmise that could affect the camber if these are not fully seated or tighten as far as possible (which I thought I did on install and went so far as to torque wrench them). Perhaps even use a come along to put a slight amount of pressure on the control arm towards the front of the car. Then re-torque the sway bar stud bolts down.

Do you think that could affect the camber sweep enough? I'd rather not go the route of visiting and paying for a frame alignment if one is not needed.....

Anyones, thoughts are appreciated.

- Dave
dharalson

austinado16

Remember that Camber is how much the top of the wheel is either leaning inward or outward. Castor is how much the wheel swings forward or rearward.

Sounds like you need a new alignment shop to me.

Audi Logic

did you loosen the subframe? if so you may have shifted it left or right

DHaralson

Sorry, meant to say caster when referencing the sway bar bushings.

Audi Logic

subframe still applies here as well

DHaralson

No, I didn't loosen or adjust the subframe mounts in anyway. Unless, I'm affecting the alignment in a strange way by unbolting the inner control arm mount and replacing w/ a new bolt when installing the new arm??

austinado16

They need to move the top strut mount as needed, and then put an air gun on the sway bar bushing end nut and either run that in tighter, or back it off a bit.

You might it's worth going to the dealer for the alinment.

Audi Logic

It can be a bitch sometimes to remove and replace..

DHaralson

Yes, removed easily w/the lug nut method and replaced when bolting in the new control arm.

hammer 10

I agree, the right wheel was back 3/8" on my 95 wagon, I loosened the subframe bolts and pulled on the right suspension with a come-a-long till it was square with the left side and tightened everything back up. You can check for squarness by measuring back to rear suspension mounting points, the measurement should be the same on both sides. I used to check the front ball joints like this on every uni-body car that was hit in the nose when I was a heavy man in the collision business. It doesn't take much to knock things around but it seems odd that this shows up after changing control arms. Are the ball joint bolt holes oversize so you can shift things around ? I haven't done any suspension work on my low mileage 95 yet so I really don't know. Another thing it could be is the problem was already there and the alignment shop didn't tell you. Most alignment guys are lazy, they want to set the toe and get paid for the alignment job --- sad but true. Always get the alignment print out of what your car is at presently, this is from someone that has straightened out hundreds of car but never done a alignment in his life --- me. Good luck, I have to go back to work ~ John Buchtenkirch