pelletman

Gentelemen,

We had some catalytic converters sawed out of cars and as a result I need to remove the exhaust manifolds and change the studs so I can put another exhaust on the car. The manifolds are already halfway off as my son started work on the car, but he tells me it is too tight to get them out. Any advice? Does the engine need to be pulled? Thanks!

upallnight

Check the Humane Society? Couldn't resist. LOL

pelletman

Doh! :-)

pelletman

Nobody knows how to get exhaust manifolds out of these cars?!

1gcrazy

Why not just weld on a new cat??

pelletman

My son has already got the manifolds most of the way off

Prospeeder

i did manifolds and studs on my 12v 100. uhg, Most of the studs on the manifolds broke, and i ended up just pulling the heads and replacing them, and doing a valve job while i was at it.

egp320i

Why bother taking off the manifolds? did they saw them off before the 3 point flange?
If they did you can get flex tubes and have new ones welded in, if not you can get aftermarket cats which bolt right on.

Check Davico 16185 on ebay, new bolt on cats run around $200 each.

If you are going to have some welded check magnaflow, good cats for a cheap price.

a6hcw

For 1996 Audi A6 wagon with a 2.8L AFC engine:
If the exhaust manifold studs break off, then the right exhaust manifold may be removed. First remove the heat shield at two nuts and one or two small screws. Next, remove the studs which hold the right exhaust manifold to the right head. The right exhaust manifold should come out.
The left exhaust manifold has the EGR Valve tube attached at the rear and is next to the antilock brake module and the large coolant pipe. The large coolant pipe goes under the intake manifold.
Right now I am removing the power steering rack to replace a torn boot, so I had to remove the brake booster assembly. Since, most of the brake lines to the antilock brake module had to be disconnected or removed, I removed the module.
To remove the EGR Valve tube I modified a closed end 7/8" wrench by cutting a notch in the closed end so that it will pass over the EGR tube to engage the ERG tube nut. The oxygen sensor has to be removed before using the modified wrench.
Two of the studs on the left hand exhaust manifold broke off and one on the right hand manifold, when I remove the catalytic converter so that I could remove the right axle assembly with a torn boot.
I was able to remove the left exhaust manifold. The heat shield was hitting the Nippondenso A/C compressor, so the three long bolts which attach the compressor to the mounting plate were loosened along with two A/C line brackets. To do this the belt must be first removed. The compressor was then resting on the oil filter. The small coolant pipe for the coolant tank does not have to be removed, but may be relocated by pushing it rearward off of it's rear mounting stud. The large coolant pipe had one small bracket with a grounding wire at the front heat shield mounting stud which had to be removed.