yvk_99

I had a coolant leak which was attributed to the heater core...neck of the heater core to be precise.

What would happen is when I would fill up the system upto max mark...it would leak on the transmission and then sometime on the ground.
If I step out I smell coolant...not in the car...
Sometimes strangely when the level would be just below MIN mark...I would have no further leaks and everything would be fine.


Well the mechanic replaced the heater core. Now after a week the coolant has started leaking again and also I get a burning smell from the vents in the car...just like when you "iron clothes and clothes are burnt with hot iron".

The coolant and the water I add leaks almost within 10-15 miles and I have the coolant warning flashing....I think I would have to just tow it tomorrow.

Also another thing I noticed is the climate control...at times when I "feel" the system ("probably coolant") is under pressure/load the buttons stop working....meaning all the digits controls on the climate control freezes...the vents keep blowing air at the specified temp but I cannot increase decrease temp/fan anything....other times when I "feel" it not under load/pressure it works like a charm...could it be the temp flap motor ???

Anyone???? Thnks

zytec

.... I ask because it's a big job and if he has just bodge the job with smeg or similar it's likely to return..

The fact it sometimes doesn't happen when the level is lower could be due to expansion pressure of the coolant. Less coolant in the system means more expansion space so it is possible there is slightly less overall system pressure and as such not reaching a point that opens up the leak.

If it's now leaking within 10 to 15 miles it should be obvious where it's coming from, big puddle in the footwall or garage floor? if not the engine could have developed a drink problem, along with the original small leak you can smell returning.

also check the jubilee clips on the matrix & engine hoses under the panel at the rear of the engine bay that the mechanic has had apart in case one is loose.

Vag-com might give you some insight if it's a flap motor issue with the HVAC

yvk_99

thnks for reply

He told me its a big job and would take him long as he would have to take off the part below the dashboard (drivers side) to access the heater core. He charged me $750 for this.

Also when I told him that I could order the core for him for autohaus he said he would rather order it that too from an authorised dealer.

He said he did not want to take any chances with the core as its a big job.

He charged me $154 for the core (included in $750) whereas I think autohauz price is way below that.

I spoke to him today over phone and he says his boys might have cracked the core while putting it in.

zytec

...but I do agree with him on using an Audi core.. the job is a pita and you'd not want to do it again. I think on left hand drive models it's prudent to reaplace the blower motor too while it's all out because stupidly the heater has to come apart to get it out!! On right hand drive versions, its just 3 screws and a plug under the bonnet and it's out..

Still wonder if it was bodged up thinking they'd do it properly if the bodging didn't work, but I'm a very sceptical SOB where mechanics / repair shops are concerned..

It's actually not that bad a job when you done a few times, the fact you can get the heater unit out the engine bay helps, seem to remember a previous 100 / 5000 Quattro the whole dash had to come out completely! that was a Nightmare!!

4Driver4

Check the coolant valve in the water tray for leakage.