Richard E.

Sorry I haven't posted in a while, but it has been a little crazy. AOA finally responded to my letter to MR. Hunt about 2 weeks ago. The responce was from an Annette Johnson, Audi's southeast division regional coordinator. Basically she referred me back to FSK Audi, as she states, "this is a workmanship issue." She also stated, " Regrettably we are not able to reimburse you as you have asked and encourage you to contact FSK as your concerns relate to issues that center around the dealership." She also says my warranrty information was sent to me in error and that my car,s warranty expired 1-25-02. I wrote the BBB and sent them copies of all related documents I sent AOA, but have not received a responce. Basically I'm finished, the Audi is running fine and I consider this an exspensive lesson. I will take the advice on this forum more seriously in the future. One last input, the leaky moonroof. I took the car back to FSK to have the leak fixed after they supposedly repaired the moonroof while the car was in for the lifter repair. Last week it rained very hard here and the moonroof leaked again. I checked the rear rain channel as beep beep suggested and it was no where in sight. Both of the little arms were broke off and the channel was lying back in the headliner. FSK must have neglected to look at this item. I called FSK informing them that the moonroof was still leaking and again that it did not start to leak until they replaced the motor and switch. Once again FSK says it has to be a coincidence, that they would have to see the car to make a judgement. I chose not to let them touch my Audi again, even though I believe they are responsible. To rerair the rear rain channel here is what I did. First, my 2 small arms that attach the channel to the moonroof are made of cast aluminum. They seem too small to drill or try any mechanical type of repair. I decided to glue them. www.thistothat.com is an excellent resource for advice on what adhesive to use. For a metal to metal bond they recommend Lepages Metal epoxy, Faststeel, or J-B Weld. I used J-B Weld because it was readily available. I began by putting the moonroof in the full tilt position and pulled the rain channel forward.I then used a small file and an emory board to remove all of the paint on the arms and broken peices. I removed an area of about a half inch total area on all four sides with both peices joined. I then took four strips of duct tape and placed them along the length of the channel. They need to be long enough to go over the moonroof and support the channel. Here is the important part, getting the broken parts to match and be at the correct angle with the moonroof tilted, then use the tape to hold the channel in position by taping to the moonroof.. Once this is completed, mix the epoxy, as I said I used JB Weld. Let it stand for 5 or 10 min. so it is not to thin. Recheck the angle and position of the channel. Apply the epoxy. I started with the broken ends on both sides first. Applying epoxy to both edges and joining together. I adjusted the duct tape to keep the joint as tight as possible. I them applied the epoxy to the entire arm where I had removed the paint, covering all sides in a liberal coat. Any excess that tried to run or drip I smoothed back. I watched this for approx. 30 min. and it seemed to gel enough to leave it stand overnight. The next day I checked it and was suprised how smooth it had dried. After it had sat for about 14 hrs. I removed the duct tape and tested the moonroof for operation. With it operating properly I took the car to the car wash and sprayed the moonroof with direct shots. No Leaks! Thanks Beep Beep for pointing me in the right diretion. I hope this procedure helps anyone who does not want to have to dismantle the car to fix the rain channel. The JB Weld dries very hard, I did a stress test by pulling on the channel with a fair amount of force and it didn't budge.

beep-beep

Nice. I will do the same. BTW Did you relubricate the rain chanel?

Richard E.

Yes, I used a high viscosity silicone lubrcant, avoiding getting any on the parts to be bonded. Thanks again for the direction.
Ric

Richard E.

P.S. Let me know how yours turns out. I was fortunate to have enough area on the parts to give a fair amount of surface area to the bond. Good luck.

whilst

For repairs:Ray Kremer@ Len Stoler Audi,Owings Mills,MD. Ray lives in Taneytown. Excellent tech!