Natureboy

I've got a couple annoying problems that just popped up on my 97 A6 Avant: first is that after filling up yesterday, the needle stayed on empty and didn't creep up until I had driven it a quarter mile or so. Then, the next time I drove it, it stayed on E. Every time since then, when I start the car, the needle creeps up to about 1/4, then quickly drops back down to E and the gas light comes on. It's not that big of a deal - I can figure out when I need to refuel by the mileage, but the flashing gas pump light sure is annoying...
Second, the flashing temperature light has been on for a few days - it comes on right when the car starts, so it's not overheating. Sometimes it goes away for a few minutes, then comes back on. I thought I had read somewhere that this could mean that the system should be bled. Any ideas? Should I just drain the system completely and start over?
Related question - how detrimental is it to use the green coolant that should works for any car vs. the pink coolant specifically for Audis? The dealer was trying to convince me that you couldn't mix the two together, but I'd like a second (or third!) opinion. Thanks

lleiro

it is from a 92 and the odometer is broken but the gas gauge is good.

If you are sure is within the cluster you can have this one for cheap.

If there is not a big upgrade on the 97 it should be a 1' swap after you take the cluster out.

Write me back if you are interested.

Natureboy

Thanks for the offer, but I'm not sure if an instr. cluster from a 92 would work or not - or if the problem lies in the gauge itself. Hoping someone out there may have had a similar problem and found the cause or could tell me how to troubleshoot it.
Also would appreciate input on the temperature/coolant issue. Thanks

austinado16

Might be worth your time to do an ohm reading back at the sender in the fuel tank and see if the sender is dead.

Your flashing coolant light is probably an indication of low coolant.

Not sure I'd go mixing coolants. If green is in there now, stick with it. But make sure you're using phosphate free....otherwise, you get internal corrosion from electrolosis

rmccomiskie

Local Audi mechanic replaced the sender in the fuel tank. Works fine now.

I flushed all coolant out of the system and replaced with Prestone 50/50 antifreeze. It's phosphate free and safe for aluminum. I wouldn't mix different types.

Natureboy

Thanks, Todd - I think you and Bob are right. I had a feeling it was most likely a problem in the tank itself.
Sounds like flushing the old coolant and refilling with a green 50/50 would be my best bet. Phosphate free - I'll make sure of that.
I feel better using a more universal coolant vs. what I would get from Audi.
I just have to say that I've had this car for 6 weeks and I've done more to it than any other car I've had:
Replaced back hatch glass day after I bought it (freak accident I think, won't go into detail)
When this happened, I had to take off the dreaded hatch trim and clean out the glass (while I was in there, I found that the screws holding the rear wiper in were completely loose)
Replaced front brakes (Bendix) and rotors
Back brake light was out and ended up having to take a steel wire brush to the housing to clean off all the corrosion, then it worked.
Installed new Boost Sensor.
Reconnected random vacuum lines that were inexplicably disconnected.
At one point, the car was totally losing power on the road - checked air filter and found that it was an Audi brand from 1999!
Car was missing spare tire, so got an original Audi rim and tire from junkyard for $75 (dealer wanted $300).
There's probably a few things I forgot...
but somehow, I still feel like it's worth it.

BTW, Bob - with that fleet of yours, it looks like you are truly "Audi for Life".

Really appreciate the input guys!

Nate

austinado16

.....especially if it's been treated poorly like yours seems to have been.

Just focus on putting it back to being "correct" and you'll really love it.