I get to do my heater core again! Insert F-word here--->........
#31
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#32
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The side panels on my center console, and I assume other C4's, have clips up front that do a sliding male/female thing as the console is pushed forward toward the firewall during installation.
If I were to grab these side panels and simple pull them away from the tunnel, it would break the clips and if it didn't, it would dissengage them and then they couldn't be reconnected without moving the console rearward, lining the clips up and then pushing foward.
Watcha think?
If I were to grab these side panels and simple pull them away from the tunnel, it would break the clips and if it didn't, it would dissengage them and then they couldn't be reconnected without moving the console rearward, lining the clips up and then pushing foward.
Watcha think?
#33
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If there are clips it could be that mine are broken, but if so I'd say that the clips aren't necessary (no squeaks or other movement evident without them). I guess it's possible they changed this post-94, I'll let you know when I replace the blower motor on the 96 someday (first I am going to try the WD40 trick again.)
You don't actually need to bend them much if at all. I'm going by vague memories from 2 years ago here, but I think if you get your head back in the footwell and look up you can detach the ductwork from there. Removing the electrical connectors for the flap motors is harder, but that can wait until the heater core is partially removed, which gives more access.
In the end it probably doesn't save a ton of time, but I've always found the console removal and replacement to be annoying. As a result I am missing some cosmetic piece that goes under the handbrake lever and part of the phone connector shell... minor but annoying (sort of like the way that my stupid steering column cover won't stay together anymore, after I swapped in the trip computer stalk.)
You don't actually need to bend them much if at all. I'm going by vague memories from 2 years ago here, but I think if you get your head back in the footwell and look up you can detach the ductwork from there. Removing the electrical connectors for the flap motors is harder, but that can wait until the heater core is partially removed, which gives more access.
In the end it probably doesn't save a ton of time, but I've always found the console removal and replacement to be annoying. As a result I am missing some cosmetic piece that goes under the handbrake lever and part of the phone connector shell... minor but annoying (sort of like the way that my stupid steering column cover won't stay together anymore, after I swapped in the trip computer stalk.)
#34
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On the passenger side the center console simply has a plastic tab. This engages a metal clip that's gripping a metal bracket on the tunnel.
On the driver's side, there is a stud with a flanged nut held off a bit from the metal bracket on the side of the tunnel. This engages a plastic cutout on the console.
Both of these are a slide rearward to disengage, slide forward to engage type of assembly, although there is something hidden behind the carpet on the driver's side.....like a 1/4 turn plastic screw or something.
Looks like my heater core has come in, so time to go pick it up and then get this back together.
On the driver's side, there is a stud with a flanged nut held off a bit from the metal bracket on the side of the tunnel. This engages a plastic cutout on the console.
Both of these are a slide rearward to disengage, slide forward to engage type of assembly, although there is something hidden behind the carpet on the driver's side.....like a 1/4 turn plastic screw or something.
Looks like my heater core has come in, so time to go pick it up and then get this back together.
#35
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Well the saga continues.
The AKG heater core arrived and it too had the 15mm fitting, even though IMC's website spec'd the 18.5mm fittings.
Called Stevens Creek Audi in the San Jose, CA area (about 200mi north)and they had a heater core and measured the fittings 3/4"(19mm) so that one should be here tomorrow. I didn't even ask about price. The part number on it is just like the others: 443-819-030 and there were no call outs in their parts data that said anything about fitting size, or use such-n-such hoses, etc.
The AKG heater core arrived and it too had the 15mm fitting, even though IMC's website spec'd the 18.5mm fittings.
Called Stevens Creek Audi in the San Jose, CA area (about 200mi north)and they had a heater core and measured the fittings 3/4"(19mm) so that one should be here tomorrow. I didn't even ask about price. The part number on it is just like the others: 443-819-030 and there were no call outs in their parts data that said anything about fitting size, or use such-n-such hoses, etc.
#36
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I just checked and both of mine are intact and grip firmly. I guess I bent the side piece enough to reengage the clips when I was done. I haven't had the center console out since before I did the heater core. This is a late 1994 MY S4...
#37
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Yesterday I ordered a heater core from the nearest dealer and had them measure the hose fittings to confirm they were 18.5mm(19mm=3/4").
It arrived today and it took just under 5hrs to finish the job completely. The dealer heater core was $133, about double the price of the wrong one I received from www.pelicanparts.com. and 3 times the price of the POS Meyle core.
I also installed a cabin filter today: Meistersatz #4A1820367. It fit perfectly.
So all told about 6.5hrs total and probably $250 including the special pink VW/Audi coolant. Hopefully I don't ever do this job on my own car again!
It arrived today and it took just under 5hrs to finish the job completely. The dealer heater core was $133, about double the price of the wrong one I received from www.pelicanparts.com. and 3 times the price of the POS Meyle core.
I also installed a cabin filter today: Meistersatz #4A1820367. It fit perfectly.
So all told about 6.5hrs total and probably $250 including the special pink VW/Audi coolant. Hopefully I don't ever do this job on my own car again!
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