I want to tackle my strut bearing project.
#1
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<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/20597/strut.jpg"></center><p>Does anybody know what I get if I order a strut bearing replacement from an online vendor. Can anybody post an exploded view of the strut assembly. I guess, according to the Bentley, the strut assembly must be removed to replace the bearing, but others said it can be done without removal. Has anyone here done their own? If so, please post the procedure.
Any help would be appreciated, since I don't feel like spending much to get this job done if I don't have to.
Thanks,
Wagon Lover
'97 A6Q Wagon
'95 BMW 525i Touring Wagon
Any help would be appreciated, since I don't feel like spending much to get this job done if I don't have to.
Thanks,
Wagon Lover
'97 A6Q Wagon
'95 BMW 525i Touring Wagon
#2
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It's not overly difficult to replace. The biggest trick is getting the big nut to turn around the strut, as the lubed strut will turn in it's housing along with the nut. To get the strut insert to stay put on the OEM struts, I had to use a 1/4" Craftsman Flat-head screwdriver inserted in the top hex opening. This is because the opening takes a 7mm hex wrench, which pretty much doesn't exist anywhere around here... Since I was replacing the strut inserts, there was a different issue tightening the nut later on because it was a different design on the top.
In any case, make sure that you:
a) Mark the location of that bearing plate. This will help ensure that the alignment stays pretty much the same after the replacement.
b) Have the car on a flat, level surface and have the parking brake engaged so that it cannot move. If that car moves around, it'll be extremely difficult to get the alignment back in place. I know this from a little confusion amongst instructions when replacing the first insert. I had the car in the air. BAD IDEA.
c) Have a second pair of hands, if available. They'll be rather helpful, esp. to take off the nuts and to help get the plate re-aligned.
d) Make sure that second pair of hands doesn't belong to a smart-aleck.
e) Allow 2-3 hours. It should actually only take about 30 minutes per side. Replacing the inserts would have taken about 45 minutes per side had I not run into a few issues along the way. Replacing the inserts, incidentally, involves maybe 2 or 3 more steps than this process, but one of those steps involves loosening a hard-to-get-to nut.
f) Don't beat yourself up if it takes you longer. Take your time and get it right the first time. The satisfaction and money saved is worth the time, in my opinion.
Hmm... I've rambled again. Dang. Hope this helps!
In any case, make sure that you:
a) Mark the location of that bearing plate. This will help ensure that the alignment stays pretty much the same after the replacement.
b) Have the car on a flat, level surface and have the parking brake engaged so that it cannot move. If that car moves around, it'll be extremely difficult to get the alignment back in place. I know this from a little confusion amongst instructions when replacing the first insert. I had the car in the air. BAD IDEA.
c) Have a second pair of hands, if available. They'll be rather helpful, esp. to take off the nuts and to help get the plate re-aligned.
d) Make sure that second pair of hands doesn't belong to a smart-aleck.
e) Allow 2-3 hours. It should actually only take about 30 minutes per side. Replacing the inserts would have taken about 45 minutes per side had I not run into a few issues along the way. Replacing the inserts, incidentally, involves maybe 2 or 3 more steps than this process, but one of those steps involves loosening a hard-to-get-to nut.
f) Don't beat yourself up if it takes you longer. Take your time and get it right the first time. The satisfaction and money saved is worth the time, in my opinion.
Hmm... I've rambled again. Dang. Hope this helps!
#3
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Im using Kyb's does anyone have any complaints about them.. Is bilstein really that much better, especially since im using eibach springs? Thanks
#4
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Other than the fact that I still have to replace my strut bearings. If I had known that going into it, I'd have bought them at the same time. I need to find the directions I used, the ones that came with the KYBs weren't very helpful.
A note on the KYB's. They come with these really beautiful new brass nuts that have nylon threading. They sure look nice, but you can't get them onto the stupid struts. As soon as you get to the nylon, the strut just spins in place with the nut. Also, you'll likely need a second pair of hands and a second pair of pliers (preferable channel-locks) to hold the top of the strut while you tighten it down, as it's a notched-off cylinder on the top, as opposed to the OEM Allen-key set up. I'll post pics of the parts and the top when I get a chance.
A note on the KYB's. They come with these really beautiful new brass nuts that have nylon threading. They sure look nice, but you can't get them onto the stupid struts. As soon as you get to the nylon, the strut just spins in place with the nut. Also, you'll likely need a second pair of hands and a second pair of pliers (preferable channel-locks) to hold the top of the strut while you tighten it down, as it's a notched-off cylinder on the top, as opposed to the OEM Allen-key set up. I'll post pics of the parts and the top when I get a chance.
#6
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Thanks for your info on the strut replacement. I have a '96 A6 with 80k and I think I'm ready to change the struts, did you change your springs with the KYB's if so which springs. Also do have pics of the strut assembly and parts as you mentioned in your post. Any help would be appreciated.
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