Archie Bunker

Think my power steering hose is leaking, the hose that goes from the pump into the rack. I think it's leaking at the point behind the engine block, where it is coupled to another hose, sitting on top of a J-hook.

the part is $191 new, assuming this is called the "power steering hose". Has anyone ever experienced this? What did you do?

Archie Bunker

searched the archives - found the info thanks

Archie Bunker

I want to make sure that we are talking about the same hose. If anybody could help me out and post/send me some pics, please do so. I'm mechanically adept, so I'll be able to do the work but I don't want to buy a manual with the exploded diagrams.

this is the post, I think he's talking about the hose that begins on top of the passenger side engine block, and disappears near the pressure accumulator (think that's what it's called). Where's the banjo bolt? my leak is behind the block, above the rack.

any more help would be awsome:

If you're replacing the same hose I was, it's gonna be a pain. It can be done without removing the brake booster, but it takes time. The only fitting you'll struggle with is putting that banjo bolt on the steering rack, so I'll concentrate on that. I first removed the air box and attached oil breather hoses. I also removed the bracket holding the two sensor connections just to the left of the brake booster (unplug the connectors and move them out of the way - they're for one of the O2 sensors and one of the knock sensors, by the way). I also loosened the lower coolant hose from the back of the engine that goes to the heat exchanger. The ring clamp is right below the throttle body inlet. To loosen the bolt, use a straight 19mm wrench; loosen the bolt with the wrench. Position the wrench to come down through the gap immediately to the left of the vacuum booster. It's slow (1/8 turn at a time) and it sucks. Remove the old hose. Make sure that the curly bend and fitting from the new hose are aligned like the old hose's were. If not, bend the new hose banjo fitting to match the angle (this makes aligning the new bolt and starting the new thread easier). My new hose needed a different banjo bolt and used copper or aluminum gaskets instead of the old hose's o-ring setup. This is a further pain in the a$@. Put the new banjo bolt and gaskets on the new hose's fitting. Cut a rubber band, and then tie it around the threads at the fitting (double knot and leave long ends hanging out). Feed the curly fitting back to the steering rack and align the bolt with the hole. Try to turn the banjo bolt and get the thread started into the steering rack. Begin cursing profusely as you try and jamb your hand in far enough to turn the bolt. If it doesn't turn in easy, don't force it; re-align and try again. You really don't want to cross-thread this bolt Once the thread is started in the new hole, remove the rubber band by pulling on the loose ends until it snaps. Make sure all the rubber band is off of the threads before tightening further. Tighten the bolt using the 19mm wrench; it's slow - it sucks. Once that bolt is tight, attach the other end (when you first remove this end, wrap the metal-hose end from the steering pump with plastic and secure it with a rubber band - this will minimize the amount of fluid that leaks from this junction and onto the motor/ground/everything else in the way) and reinstall all the other parts. Add Pentosin, start the engine, crank the wheels lock to lock a few times, add more Pentosin and you're done. All told, it took me around 6 hours. Hopefully, it will take you less. -Karl

samm

Sounds like the hose you are talking about. It has a connection right along the fuel rail on the passenger side of the engine under the plastic cover.

I just replaced mine, it is quite common for these to leak. I removed the plastic air intake from the back of the engine and also removed the brake booster. I thought about trying it without removing the booster, but decided it would be more trouble than it's worth. I am glad I did remove the booster as the hose is very accessible with the booster removed, and there was a lot of dirt and grease around the connection to the rack that I was able to clean off before removing the old hose.

The job was easier than I anticipated. The hardest part is getting the booster out, and back in again.

Dissconnect the 2 brake lines from the master cylinder and gently bend them out of the way. go inside the car and remove the plastic cover under the drivers side dash, and remove the footwell vent & light.

Remove the pin that attaches the brake pedal to the arm from the booster. The pin is held in by a clip that you slide off.

Remove the foam plug at the firewall where the brake booster arm goes through. There are 4 nuts behind the foam that you need to remove. This is the hard part. I used a combination of extensions and swivels to get to the nuts.

Once the nuts have been removed the brake booster is free. You will have to gently push the steel brake lines out of the way as well as some vacuum lines as you fanagle the booster out of the firewall.

Once the booster is out you will have a clear shot at the end of the hose where it goes into the rack. This is where the banjo bolt is.

I suggest you clean the area around the banjo bolt so that no dirt gets into the system when you remove the hose. Be sure to use new copper washers on the banjo bolt.

Once you have everything back together. Add power steering fluid as needed. Jack up both front wheels and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock several times(engine off) to bleed the system. After you have done this, lower the car, add fluid as needed and idle the car until warm with the wheels pionted straight ahead. Re check the fluid level. Any air still in the syatem will bleed as you drive, just keep checking the fluid level often for a few days.

Good luck.

Archie Bunker

thanks samm, might be emailing you next weekend with questions - when I have chance to do this.

Archie Bunker

When you disconnect the brake lines, did you get break fluid spraying all over the place? Once the booster is back together, it is necessary to bleed all of the brake lines, correct?

thanks again

thoraudi

I believe the hose is leaking due to deterioration. What happens is that due to age + heat the inner layer of this high pressure hose is starting to leak and the fluid follows the path between the inner and the outer rubber layer. Impossible to see actually where it is leaking, but the oilspill will normally take place just behind the engine. Solution is to change the hos which runs through the V-of the engine (under the plastic cover).

samm

Yes fluid will seep from the lines and master cylinder. Stuff as many rags as you can find all around the area to avoid brake fluid on the paint.

Once back together you will have to bleed the brakes. On my wagon there is a proportioning valve you need to open before bleeding, I am not sure if the sedans have this.

It's funny because once you get to the power steering hose it's a 5 min job to change it, getting to it is the time consuming part.

godek

do you have any pics of this?