my eyes refuse to search anymore, need help!
01-09-2008, 05:02 PM
#1
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my eyes refuse to search anymore, need help!
so i've been searching for a DIY on valve body removal and install for our quatro 4 speed automatics.... i have the pan off, so im right there. i dont really like diving in, removing bolts, without being fully prepared. anyway, i cant find @#%^. anyone have a link? any help is appreciated.
01-09-2008, 06:09 PM
#3
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Probably doesn't shift correctly and is hoping this will fix it.
I haven't a clue how, automatic transmissions are voodoo to me. Try a european auto place, they may have manuals for this. Or an AAMCO etc. You could even write to ZF and see if they will hook you up with some instructions via email.
01-09-2008, 06:17 PM
#4
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Bentley specifies which bolts to remove.
Did you run through the transmission "test outputs" section of the VWTOOL or VAGCOM software? It would give you some good info where to focus your search.
01-09-2008, 08:51 PM
#5
German Transaxle in Bend, Oregon (find them online) may be willing to help.
If you can talk to one of the techs for a few minutes.
One thing to consider in all this is the multi-function switch hidden up on the driver's side of the transmission sort of between that left transmission mount and the trans body. You'll see the transmission shift cable goes to it.
It's a box with copper contacts inside. When you shift, the box internals are moved so that the transmission, the transmission computer, (maybe even the engine computer) and the dash display knows what gear you've selected.
The multi-function switches are known to get water inside and get corroded and fail, or fail due to wear, etc. The one in our car is bad for Reverse gear, so when I shift into Reverse, my reverse lights don't come on, and my right mirror doesn't dip all the time. Sometimes, in the middle of backing up, the reverse lights will suddenly come on and the mirror will dip.
Anyway, it would be worth taking this out, drilling out the rivets that hold the cover on, and inspecting, cleaning the contacts and lubing it up inside. It's got to be clocked a certain way, so mark it before removeal. During installation, there's a metal rod (like a drill bit) that goes down through the linkage at the top of it, and into it's housing, in order to let you know you have it clocked right. Pay attention to that.
Also, follow the big wire harness out of the trans that heads forward and has a big round coupling below the firewall down low on the driver's side. This, and the wiring inside the jacket are known bad spots. The jacket gets brittle and cuts the wires, and the round connector gets water/road salt/etc. inside and corrodes the terminals.
I would do all these checks before I pulled the valve body...because maybe the trans ECM doesn't know you've shifted into Drive. Maybe it thinks you're running around in "3" so it's only giving you 3 gears.
One thing to consider in all this is the multi-function switch hidden up on the driver's side of the transmission sort of between that left transmission mount and the trans body. You'll see the transmission shift cable goes to it.
It's a box with copper contacts inside. When you shift, the box internals are moved so that the transmission, the transmission computer, (maybe even the engine computer) and the dash display knows what gear you've selected.
The multi-function switches are known to get water inside and get corroded and fail, or fail due to wear, etc. The one in our car is bad for Reverse gear, so when I shift into Reverse, my reverse lights don't come on, and my right mirror doesn't dip all the time. Sometimes, in the middle of backing up, the reverse lights will suddenly come on and the mirror will dip.
Anyway, it would be worth taking this out, drilling out the rivets that hold the cover on, and inspecting, cleaning the contacts and lubing it up inside. It's got to be clocked a certain way, so mark it before removeal. During installation, there's a metal rod (like a drill bit) that goes down through the linkage at the top of it, and into it's housing, in order to let you know you have it clocked right. Pay attention to that.
Also, follow the big wire harness out of the trans that heads forward and has a big round coupling below the firewall down low on the driver's side. This, and the wiring inside the jacket are known bad spots. The jacket gets brittle and cuts the wires, and the round connector gets water/road salt/etc. inside and corrodes the terminals.
I would do all these checks before I pulled the valve body...because maybe the trans ECM doesn't know you've shifted into Drive. Maybe it thinks you're running around in "3" so it's only giving you 3 gears.
01-10-2008, 04:00 AM
#7
I called them when I having trouble with the tran on the bro-in-law's car. Extremely unhelpful.
I called a couple of times and some woman answered the phone. She refused to let me talk to a tech and insisted on diagnosing the issue herself.
Car would not move in drive until it shifted into second but was fine if shifter was in first. She insisted that the problem was electrical. I replaced the bad trans to fix it. Thank god I didn't listen to that crazy bish and waste more of my time.
No good review for German Transaxle here.
Car would not move in drive until it shifted into second but was fine if shifter was in first. She insisted that the problem was electrical. I replaced the bad trans to fix it. Thank god I didn't listen to that crazy bish and waste more of my time.
No good review for German Transaxle here.
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01-10-2008, 04:57 AM
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while in drive, tranny shifts into 4th then slips
well, its hard to tell if it actually shifts into 4th or cant completely make it into the gear. it tries to shift to 4th then rpms sky rocket, then limp mode.
01-10-2008, 05:01 AM
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the MFS was going to be my next part to remove and inspect...
after the valve body. anyone know where i can get a new MFS other then the dealer. any online vendors?