jschick

I changed my oil non-return valves about a month or so ago and posted the part #078103175d which are $32.45 each, their are 2 of them under the valley pan. I really don't think this is the main problem though, they did help the noise but yesterday I found the real problem and replaced the check valves in the heads, part#078103363p which were $18 each, and that solved my noisy lifters. First the problem, if your car ticks loudly when cold and eventually it goes away (commonly called lifter noise) then chances are your oil check valves are bad, their are a total of 4, one in each head and 2 under the valley pan. First of all I found that the cheap ones in the heads tend to bust so they acctually restrict oil flow in the heads and since they are also the cheapest change them first, it took about 30-45 minutes to change them, just remove the valve covers, unscrew the valve (be carefull not to loose the little pieces if they are busted like mine were) I used tweesers to get the pieces out, then screw the new ones in and replace valve cover. The old valves require a torques bit to remove, but I did not have one and they are a very soft metal so I tapped a slot headed screwdriver in them and they came right out. the new ones are haqrdened steel and take a 10MM socket, I also did not bother replaceing the valve cover gasket I just used a very thin layer of gasket sealer. so intotal it cost about $40, now if this does not solve your problem try the oil non-return valves under the valley pan, these will tend to leak and slowly let the oil drain out of the head, but will not restrict flow so I will bet you will not need these even though these were recomended by many here on this board. to do these you need to remove your intake and valley pan, You will see the 2 valves, the 2 valves then unscrew, you will also need a valley pan gasket and intake gaskets, while you have the intake off now is also the time to clean out your intake, and the egr passage, I cleaned mine and the car really runs much better, but time involved may take up to 2 hrs. and cost will likely run close to $100. Now enjow a smooth quite running Audi

A6Gary

check valve(s) need replacing. With only 46K miles, I suspect my problem is one of valves in the left cylinder head (apparent location of the sound). So, the valves in the heads will be the first to be replaced.

snowman '92 100

Anyone have pics of the heads with the valves in them?

A6Gary

Funny, my Bentley Manual only shows the oil retention valves under the intake manifold.

Mr Dre

Where did you get those valves from. My dealer quoted me ~$48 a piece=$200 job plus gaskets?? Any web sites will be appreciated

Laura

Just want to say THANK YOU to the forum..the part numbers and check valve information on this page saved us...fixed us right up. I hope that everyone contributes to keep us OLD car fanatics hanging on.

vonGo

I have ticking all the time, I think I may be to late to save them! Anyone have pictures of these? I'd like to know what I'm getting into before I start.

Laura

Are you speaking about the retention valves? What model and year do you have?

F6RTY

Sorry to revive this old thread, but it seems that many have success in stopping lifter noise by replacing the valley pan valves and/ or the head pressure relief valves.

I, on the other hand, have done all this and more and still have lifter noise. I've put a thread on the '12v Discussion' section too but want to put another here as it relates to my 100 Quattro.

Any thoughts on what problem I may have? Engine is very clean inside so seriously doubt that sludge etc is causing any problem.

Alan