Fuzzbeaner

Alright boys, gather round, I need your help on this one.

I pulled my car from the road in August as I was headed to school. Hoping to bring her there for the last month, I dewinterized her (started right up! :-D). As I pulled her from the garage, something felt...sluggish. I called my father down to observe, and as he noted, the rear right wheel was stuck! Quattro made it drive ok, though, hah.

Soooo, I pull the wheel, knock her around a bit, (fails), then decide the car can do it herself, and drive it forward and back quick 5 or 6 times, and it breaks loose. YAY! The problem?

The wheel still squeaks whenever it moves. The car won't idle forward, and I need to rev her to 1100 RPM before it takes off. What may this be, and what can I/should I do for cheap? I fear I"m going to have to bring her in to the local brake place and pay money I don't have to get it running. Don't tell me I have to leave my car off the road this summer!!

Thanks,
-Jeff

brick8

You might just have a stuck parking brake cable. I think it can be released with a screwdriver where the cable goes into the caliper. Maybe someone else can give you detailed instructions.

jljohnson85

Did you have it parked with the e-brake up? If so you could have the caliper seized shut.

A6Gary

If not your parking brake, then the caliper carrier, which is suppose to float, is probably frozen.

Fuzzbeaner

ok. It idles backwards and forwards it goes forward a foot or two before stopping. It WANTS to be free, I can feel it!

-Jeff

marvgomez

use it to force the ebrake mechanism back to it's stopped, or off position. If you follow the ebrake cable to where it connects to the caliper, you'll see it slides into a lever mechanism. When you pull the ebrake, the lever rotates and with old calipers, stays there...8-(
50% of the time, it's that mechanism, the other 50% it's the rusty cables not wanting to go back into the cable sleeve.

You just need to coax the lever back the other way by forcing with the screwdriver. Just remember not to reengage the ebrake till you free up the mechanism (or, I've seen folks use a BIGGER return spring to get that extra umph to bring it back!).