Oops! I did it again... TB without Audi tool.
#12
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...differently.
If you don't use the tools, the absolute best you can hope for is to get the belt on as well as the last guy did. You can get the car back together and make it run, but you can't be sure that the belt is on right without the tools.
It's that simple: The right way to do the job is to verify that the timing is right.
I'm glad you got your car back together without issues, but please don't try to sell the idea that skipping the tools is a good thing to do.
If you don't use the tools, the absolute best you can hope for is to get the belt on as well as the last guy did. You can get the car back together and make it run, but you can't be sure that the belt is on right without the tools.
It's that simple: The right way to do the job is to verify that the timing is right.
I'm glad you got your car back together without issues, but please don't try to sell the idea that skipping the tools is a good thing to do.
#14
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However, I didn't buy the cam sprocket puller because I couldn't get my head wrapped around the idea of how the cam sprockets spun, and why that was important....but the cams themselves didn't move.
Thanks to this forum, I learned more when "FairCape" emailed me a detailed photo of how the cams mount on the sprockets.
I'm familiar with the rotating cam "thing" because that's exactly what you do to put a t-belt on a VW/Audi diesel or set the injection pump timing.
So, first time around, I did it quick and easy with just crank pin tool and the cam holding bar.
As you say Dave, you can only get it as good as the previous guy did.
Once FairCape schooled me with a photo, I ordered the sprocket puller....but not before checking my work. Sure enough; with the crank marks lined up and the cam holder in the right cam, I could not get the cam holder to drop into the left cam's holes. It wasn't even close (that's the photo I posted previously). So, all I'd done was recreate the previous guy's work.
So could I do it without the tools? You bet, all day long. Would it be correct? I doubt it. Would it run? Sure.
I know use all 3 tools, no matter what. They're accurate, and fast. No need for being careful, watching the marks, rechecking my work, figuring out a way to keep the crank from moving while I break loose bolts. Just wham-bam, done, drive it away and know it's on the money.
Thanks to this forum, I learned more when "FairCape" emailed me a detailed photo of how the cams mount on the sprockets.
I'm familiar with the rotating cam "thing" because that's exactly what you do to put a t-belt on a VW/Audi diesel or set the injection pump timing.
So, first time around, I did it quick and easy with just crank pin tool and the cam holding bar.
As you say Dave, you can only get it as good as the previous guy did.
Once FairCape schooled me with a photo, I ordered the sprocket puller....but not before checking my work. Sure enough; with the crank marks lined up and the cam holder in the right cam, I could not get the cam holder to drop into the left cam's holes. It wasn't even close (that's the photo I posted previously). So, all I'd done was recreate the previous guy's work.
So could I do it without the tools? You bet, all day long. Would it be correct? I doubt it. Would it run? Sure.
I know use all 3 tools, no matter what. They're accurate, and fast. No need for being careful, watching the marks, rechecking my work, figuring out a way to keep the crank from moving while I break loose bolts. Just wham-bam, done, drive it away and know it's on the money.
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