jossa

hi, i have tried everything on my 95 s6

i have A/C and climatronic

thing is, no heat inside car under 3000rpm
i have tried:

• purging the air
• refilling the system using a vacume filler system
• checked the heat flap in the heater box
• both the pipes on the heater gets hot
• no vagcom codes (exept for one on the inlet beaing out of range but the flap is open)
  
  so.. i am getting kind of desperate here.. -10C outside and temp dropping... any ideas?
  i think i have read every post out there.. but if you got any links ore ideas just let me know!
  
  
  
  
  

jossa

forgot to write .. it is an 2.2 AAN engine and i do have exelent heat above 3000 rpm...


btw how do i edit posts in this forum? :S

terryn

Hi there, I'm afraid I can't be of much assistance as I have the same problem. The same 96 S6 avant with climate. I have the same symptoms thou they have changed once or twice. Do you know if the air distribution is correct also. IE I don't get any air from face vents only footwell and screen (but only when screen is selected not the upper setting) Therefore I have heat and distribution probs. but cooling side is ok. I am led to think the system needs an Audi reset. I will get back to you if it's successful.I've been told a flat battery or jump start can upset the workings of the climate.
regards terry

Ben2

There's a bleeding procedure in the QW FAQ, make sure you follow it to the T to get all the air out of your system:

http://forums.quattroworld.com/a6100/msgs/3.phtml

Also make sure the vacuum diaphragm on the driver's side of the airbox (under the hood) that opens and closes the coolant flow when the heat is on is opening all the way.

jossa

hi guys, thanks for the replys.

i have tried different things now and i think i am on to somthing

after weryfying that the heat mix flap is moving, (removed the temp sensor in the fan housing and watched it move, i began to look at the heater core again.

i knew the closing walve was working (not closed) and the hoses became hot, but hot enough?

so what i did was, i remowed the hoses for the heater core (from the plastic t pice with the sensor and from the metal tube off the termostat housing) and i hooked it up to my magical machine.









and that circulates HOT water and acid troug what ever you hook it up to.. so i left that for 4 hrs just changing the direction of flow now and then..

meanwhile i got working on the rest of the system, drained the head and replaced the thermostat with a blank one i made of a old thermostat, choped off ewerything exept the outer rim holding the o-ring in place making a positive seal to the housing and then making an "air escape hole™ " making it posible for air to get out



i then put the machine on the engine and the radiator and cleaned that..

put the hoses back and filed her up with my vacume filler system





and then using a funnel and overfilling the reservoar i "burp bleed" the system on 2-3000rpm for 3-4 min..


also used the time to change the coupe filter.... it was about time...

new filter on the left


and finaly... the heat had returned, somwhat.. instead beaing from 3000 rpm and up.. now it is more like 1500 rpm and up..

this leads me to beleve that my core was cloged somhow..
so i am going to do a new flush to confirm that and order a new core and fan and just change that..

any one have any input on this?

Ben2

There's some info on the blower motor/heater core procedure in the QW FAQ. Basically very little of the dash has to come apart, just the radio and climate control head, you don't have to take out the console like the instructions say. Took me maybe four hours to do start to finish.

http://forums.quattroworld.com/a6100/msgs/10.phtml

jossa

yea i gues i just have to start.. i can see from the FAQ that there are a gazilion different heater cores.. any tips on what to choose, prise is not that important.. i just dont want to do it again in 3 weeks.. (i am going to change the fan too)

i am thinkin OEM.. but is there a big difference in OEM audi and 3party parts?

i am used to honda and they had 100X better parts then 3party ones..

Ben2

From what I understand they come in two varieties: OEM metal and non-OEM plastic. The metal ones last longer, but the hoses ports are the wrong size so you have to use some collars to adapt them. The plastic ones are OK quality but the ports are the right size out of the box. I used the plastic one when I did it a couple years back and it's been OK since.

jossa

ok how far off are we talking here? like a couple of milimeters ore totaly oposite ends of the tank?

i could rebuild it to fit i gues.. but how is the heating on the all mettal one? i am guessing that they used a convensional core and they might not have the same cap. as the aluminum fins that the plastic type have..

i am just thinking out loud here..

anything else i should change while i am in there?

Ben2

From what I understand they're in the same location, the hoses are just smaller diameter than the stock so you have to slip something around them for it to bolt up. The plastic ones bolt right up just like the factory.

Before taking it apart run a diagnostic on your CC head and make sure all the flap motors are working, if any of them aren't it's a good time to replace them while it's apart. Instructions for pulling CC codes are in the QW FAQ. You can also open up the flap motors and grease them if that's something you feel like doing, though I didn't.