Ribbed (flat) belt idler
07-28-2003, 12:47 AM
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Ribbed (flat) belt idler
Has anyone investigated whether the idler bearing can be replaced? The dealer wants $180 for the entire assy, says bearing is not available separately.
07-28-2003, 09:25 AM
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Re: I changed it on my 95 along with the tensioner.
I replaced the complete idler bearing assy, tensioner assy complete, water pump and belt.
<img src="http://mywebpages.comcast.net/marcogyver/audiworld/timing8.jpg">
I know the timing belt design has changed at least once. On my vechile the idle is behind the letter 'd' and fixed with one bolt. The tensioner is offset to the left and lower from 'd' and is also fixed with one bolt.
<img src="http://mywebpages.comcast.net/marcogyver/audiworld/timing8.jpg">
I know the timing belt design has changed at least once. On my vechile the idle is behind the letter 'd' and fixed with one bolt. The tensioner is offset to the left and lower from 'd' and is also fixed with one bolt.
07-28-2003, 09:42 AM
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Re: I changed it on my 95 along with the tensioner.
I think there is some confusion: the belt in question is the flat / serpentine belt, not the timing (or gear) belt. The belt you are describing seems to be involved with the water pump, which means that it is the timing belt idler that you changed.
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07-28-2003, 11:48 AM
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Well I'll share my experience with you
I have a 95 A6Q Just replaced both belts, water pump, thermostat. Immediately after the tensioner pully (serpentine belt) starts making noise. I took it apart, slapped in some grease behind the cover, noise went away for about 2 weeks.
Found a replacement for the bearing ($6) but here's the catch: the pully is actually two pieces and the bearing/retainer are sandwiched between both pieces, you cannot remove the bearing.
I noticed that the tensioner pully from a 94 Buick 3.8L was about the same diameter and used exactly the same bearing. Bought a Buick pully ($34) but it doesn't fit because of the ribbed design of the plastic pully. Dealer wants $187+ for a new assembly. Found an aftermarket selling for $112. All this to replace a $6 bearing!
If you find any other solution let me know.
Found a replacement for the bearing ($6) but here's the catch: the pully is actually two pieces and the bearing/retainer are sandwiched between both pieces, you cannot remove the bearing.
I noticed that the tensioner pully from a 94 Buick 3.8L was about the same diameter and used exactly the same bearing. Bought a Buick pully ($34) but it doesn't fit because of the ribbed design of the plastic pully. Dealer wants $187+ for a new assembly. Found an aftermarket selling for $112. All this to replace a $6 bearing!
If you find any other solution let me know.
07-28-2003, 01:17 PM
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Re: Well I'll share my experience with you
Good try though! I have looked at the pulley: it is possible to grind off the rivets and replace the bearing (which should push out easily from the 'halves'). Probably, you would bolt the halves back together again.
I have the bearing number, but the manufacturer, NTN Bearings, does not recognize the part number extension. It is a 6203 "LM" bearing with seals both sides. I asked for their recommendation for 15,000 RPM rated, 220F, and dusty environment. Waiting on that.
You might have the ID correct, but unless you looked up the 6203 dimensions, you might not have the right OD (with the Buick part).
But, if the OD is correct, please let me know: you have a 6203 bearing in hand, (and can replace the defective one if you want to) maybe I'll go after the bearing that way, too.
I'll advise when I
I have the bearing number, but the manufacturer, NTN Bearings, does not recognize the part number extension. It is a 6203 "LM" bearing with seals both sides. I asked for their recommendation for 15,000 RPM rated, 220F, and dusty environment. Waiting on that.
You might have the ID correct, but unless you looked up the 6203 dimensions, you might not have the right OD (with the Buick part).
But, if the OD is correct, please let me know: you have a 6203 bearing in hand, (and can replace the defective one if you want to) maybe I'll go after the bearing that way, too.
I'll advise when I