T90

Hey guys and gals, just as the topic states, I am goingto dive into a front brake pad replacement on my 93 100Q, ow I need to know what tools will be required as well as any tips or pointer syou mayt be able to share with me.

Thanks so much!

Trev

A6Gary

previously, you'll have no problems. Besides new pads, you'll also most likely need new rotors - the wear limit is only 1-mm per side.

T90

Excellent , thank you. Now when I go to tackle the rears what can I expect?

A6Gary

using either a special tool (e.g., metalnerd.com's tool, VAG tool, or event the brake cube available from eBay), or a pair of channel lock pliers and a large C-clamp/bar clamp. If you use the later, just be carefull not to pinch the rubber piston boot with the pliers. Before I had any special tool, that's how I compressed the piston. But now I have both the brake cube (~$20) and the VAG-equivalent tool from metalnerd.com ($50). The official VAG tool runs ~$100 on eBay. One other point - to remove the rotors, you'll probably need to use some pentrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster) to break the bond between the rotor and the hub (corrosion causes the vertical interface to "bond" together).<ul><li><a href="http://shop.metalnerd.com/index.cgi?code=3&amp;cat=8">Metal Nerd Tool</a></li></ul>

az100

As anyone will tell you the front is like any other car. A 15mm socket and a mid sized C-clamp will do the job. As far as the rear goes, my 2 caliper bolts actually take a hex key. You could buy a socket hex ( I wanna say 8mm ) or do like me and just use an allen key and a box wrench as a breaker bar. You'll neen a set of pliars or channel locks to remove the E-brake cable from the mechanism (only because it interferes w/ the top bolt. However, I have been able to bypass in the past using a wobble and some patience) Regardless, you will more than likely have to turn the piston before pushing it in (god damn Detroit pistons, you'd think they would have won tonight)sorry, I lost a bundle. Anyway, I have also found if the E-brake is disenguaged and you back the car up slightly, a C-clamp will push the piston in w/ no rotation needed. Kinda hard to explain but if your mech inclined you should be able to figure it out.

T90

LOL, ok no sweat. I did the fronts after I got home from work tonight with the help of a trouble llight. The car only claimed a small amount of skin, but left me one heck of a bruised and swollen hand. I am glad I did do the brakes because I did see that my passenger side CV boot is torn, and will need replacing, and I guess the next logical step would be to replace the rear pads

Thanks for your input and help guys.

Trev

beep-beep

I used large clamp.

beep-beep

also check the tech section. It has post on how change brakes.