Yesturday my parking brake got frozen.
#1
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I drove 150Mi to Hunter mtn though the snow/water and left my parking brake on overnight sitting in deep snow. On next morning I drove and after first mile, I could smell rear brakes burning. Questions:
1. what to do when brake frozen? I do not see overheated caliper and failing brake.
2. Do you recoment to do not use hand brake at all? I used it, because I did not want to put stress on transmission in parming position.
3. Is there any preventinve steps to do not have them frozen again.
1. what to do when brake frozen? I do not see overheated caliper and failing brake.
2. Do you recoment to do not use hand brake at all? I used it, because I did not want to put stress on transmission in parming position.
3. Is there any preventinve steps to do not have them frozen again.
#3
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I had a problem that my parking brake would not release when the handle was lowered. What I had to do was to get under the back of the car and push the parking brake release lever back to the "off" position. Fortunately it was still under warranty and the dealer solved the problem by replacing both rear calipers.
Of course, it could just be that your cable is binding.
Of course, it could just be that your cable is binding.
#5
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but we have had very mild winters for the last few years so I do not think I have had to do it for at least 10 years.
I think that if it was the actual calipers that were frozen, then it could be that there is an ingress of water in the back of the caliper body, where the cam that operates the handbrake is located.
You can sometimes get oil to work its way down into the housing by removing the caliper from its bracket then flooding the area around the spindle that the bell crank is mounted on with oil. Then manually work the lever back and forth until the oil has disappeared into the caliper. Oy can remove the return spring and its stop to make it easier to do. It sometimes helps to pull the spindle out slightly, about ¼" or so, to create some suction effect to help get the oil in past the seal.
This chamber is completely separate from the hydralic chamber so it will not have any effect on the hydraulic braking side of things.
You will possibly find that the lever begins to operate more easily as you work it.
You will need to keep on screwing the piston back in before it comes out too far.
We had a -4.5°C on Monday morning with no problems and a perfect sunny day dawn to dusk.
but we have had very mild winters for the last few years so I do not think I have had to do it for at least 10 years.
I think that if it was the actual calipers that were frozen, then it could be that there is an ingress of water in the back of the caliper body, where the cam that operates the handbrake is located.
You can sometimes get oil to work its way down into the housing by removing the caliper from its bracket then flooding the area around the spindle that the bell crank is mounted on with oil. Then manually work the lever back and forth until the oil has disappeared into the caliper. Oy can remove the return spring and its stop to make it easier to do. It sometimes helps to pull the spindle out slightly, about ¼" or so, to create some suction effect to help get the oil in past the seal.
This chamber is completely separate from the hydralic chamber so it will not have any effect on the hydraulic braking side of things.
You will possibly find that the lever begins to operate more easily as you work it.
You will need to keep on screwing the piston back in before it comes out too far.
We had a -4.5°C on Monday morning with no problems and a perfect sunny day dawn to dusk.
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