1984 4000 S
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Mileage 35,000.. Summer car..
The other day I got Temperature, Red Warning on the dash..
Temperature is normal, but light flashed randomly..
Thinking it maybe connected to the sensor located under the coolant return tank..
I'm not a mechanic, so only a guess..
If it is the sensor..
How do you find a replacement and how difficult is it to change..
The other day I got Temperature, Red Warning on the dash..
Temperature is normal, but light flashed randomly..
Thinking it maybe connected to the sensor located under the coolant return tank..
I'm not a mechanic, so only a guess..
If it is the sensor..
How do you find a replacement and how difficult is it to change..
#2
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I assume you checked the coolant level?
I had the same problem on my '84, and so I just leave the sensor disconnected. I can pretty much guarantee it's nothing to do with temperature. It's really just there to warn of low coolant levels, but since the temp gauge is independent of that, you'll still be able to see if it's overheating, and if it's got low coolant it'll probably be overheating, so to me it seems redundant.
But I realize not everyone is a daredevil, so to replace it is pretty easy, but I've never checked to see if replacements are available. Try to figure out if it's a connection or the float in the tank or the sensor itself though, because it could be any of those.
-Rog
I had the same problem on my '84, and so I just leave the sensor disconnected. I can pretty much guarantee it's nothing to do with temperature. It's really just there to warn of low coolant levels, but since the temp gauge is independent of that, you'll still be able to see if it's overheating, and if it's got low coolant it'll probably be overheating, so to me it seems redundant.
But I realize not everyone is a daredevil, so to replace it is pretty easy, but I've never checked to see if replacements are available. Try to figure out if it's a connection or the float in the tank or the sensor itself though, because it could be any of those.
-Rog
#4
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I think they're just prone to going bad. I also had an '84 Coupe GT that did the same thing. But I also think it's one of the least useful sensors on the car.
I don't think I've ever been driving down the road, engine seizing up and melting into a puddle of goo, temp gauge needle off the chart and saying "I'm sure everything's fine, the coolant level light hasn't come on yet!"
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
-Rog
I don't think I've ever been driving down the road, engine seizing up and melting into a puddle of goo, temp gauge needle off the chart and saying "I'm sure everything's fine, the coolant level light hasn't come on yet!"
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
-Rog
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When it rains it pours,, I guess..
Just noticed a slight anti-freeze leak from the front of the engine..
On the lift it looks like a water pump problem ..
Somewhere there must be a hidden pump.. "Well hidden"
I maybe wrong but it may take some convolving to get it changed..
Wondering just how to go about it ??
Seems like changing the timing belt & idler may make sense ..
I'll keep you posted, assuming we can locate the parts..
Just noticed a slight anti-freeze leak from the front of the engine..
On the lift it looks like a water pump problem ..
Somewhere there must be a hidden pump.. "Well hidden"
I maybe wrong but it may take some convolving to get it changed..
Wondering just how to go about it ??
Seems like changing the timing belt & idler may make sense ..
I'll keep you posted, assuming we can locate the parts..
#6
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Yeah, it's a routine thing that you have to do as far as changing the timing belt and water pump. Don't want the belt going out or the engine's toast...
I've found some of the best prices on Amazon.com, believe it or not. And their free shipping over $25 still applies, so that makes it hard to find a better deal. They have several brands of water pump as well as the timing belt. It's good to change all that stuff at once.
To change the water pump, you'll have to remove the power steering pump (you can leave the hoses attached and just move it to one side), then remove the timing cover. You'll see the water pump right there. Set the #1 (front) cylinder to TDC. I believe a lot of the bolts will be hex keys, so be prepared for that.
Then just reverse it for the new one and fill with new coolant. I like to loosen the temp sensor on top of the top hose right where it goes into the engine as I fill it, then tighten it as soon as coolant starts coming out of it. It's a good way to make sure there aren't any air bubbles.
-Rog
I've found some of the best prices on Amazon.com, believe it or not. And their free shipping over $25 still applies, so that makes it hard to find a better deal. They have several brands of water pump as well as the timing belt. It's good to change all that stuff at once.
To change the water pump, you'll have to remove the power steering pump (you can leave the hoses attached and just move it to one side), then remove the timing cover. You'll see the water pump right there. Set the #1 (front) cylinder to TDC. I believe a lot of the bolts will be hex keys, so be prepared for that.
Then just reverse it for the new one and fill with new coolant. I like to loosen the temp sensor on top of the top hose right where it goes into the engine as I fill it, then tighten it as soon as coolant starts coming out of it. It's a good way to make sure there aren't any air bubbles.
-Rog
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also check out
http://www.autohausaz.com/
very rarely do i ever find anyone who can beat their prices. and free shipping over 50 so if im under i usually grab a door handle or something along those lines too just to help build the parts shed up.
http://www.autohausaz.com/
very rarely do i ever find anyone who can beat their prices. and free shipping over 50 so if im under i usually grab a door handle or something along those lines too just to help build the parts shed up.
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If you're mechanic is nervous about a timing belt job you really should find a new mechanic. And yes, on the JT code five cylinder engine you need more than some hex wrenches. You need a special tool (VW 2034 I belive) to hold the crank pulley to get it off, then another to put it on. You also need a beefy impact wrench to get the cam pulley off. I'm not sure what's require for the four cylinder. You'll probably want the Bentley. I've taken a JT apart, but I've yet to get it back together.