Rich_OOOO

<center><img src="http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c295/rcougle/hsjhd.jpg"></center><p>This is going from a 4000 Q into my UrQ. I'm gonna add the extra vac lines to operate the diff locks seperately. I'm pretty sure I got the electrical down, but I need a little help with the vac line placement. Not sure about which lines go where.

1. Backlight Ground

2. Voltmeter Ground/Diff lock Ind Ground

3. Oil Temp Ground

4. Backlight Hot/Voltmeter Hot

5. Rear Diff Ind/Hot

6. Center Diff Ind/Hot

7-12. Not sure which vac lines go to which
diff lock

Katman

How about this?

You should be able to see the colours.

<img src="http://www.frankdekat.com/pics/vac%20hoses.jpg">

Looks like the lines match up with the M-Geek diagaram in the link, too!

For the wiring: You have the pins numbered correctly (as per the manual), but not correctly assigned..

<img src="http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c295/rcougle/hsjhd.jpg">

They should be:

1. Backlight Feed (From dimmer)

2. Voltmeter / gauges / Diff lock Ind power (=Switched igniton)

3. To Oil Temp sender

4. Ground for gauges / backlights

5. To Rear Diff Ind (Ground turns on light)

6. Center Diff Ind (Ground turns on light)


Here's another idea:

Replace the complete gauge/diff lock panel with the 3 round gauge panel that comes from a fwd 4k or coupe maybe. (so you get some useful gauges)

Then take the rotary vac switch out of the 'new style' digital gage panel (Pull off the **** to get at the screws), and mount the rotary diff lock controller somewhere else (Ash tray? Between the window switches? in the dash kick panel? In the cubby over your left knee?


That way you can have useful gauges and still keep the diff lock system..<ul><li><a href="http://www.motorgeek.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=25877#305760">MG diff lock post / digaram</a></li></ul>

gmbchef

was remove the 3 gauge pod that was in my urq when I bought it, finally replaced them with a diff lock panel.
I then took the 3 gauge pod and mounted it vertically along the right hand side of the instrument bezel, with the angle facing up. Oil pressure on top, boost in the middle, A/F ratio on the bottom.
I did it by using double sided tape to hold the pod in place while I drilled two holes through what is originally the top of the pod and through the bezel. There is plenty of thickness in the bezel right behind the switches to hold the pod with instruments steady using sheet metal screws.
The wiring goes through the removeable triangular panel and through the dash to the engine compartment behind the brake M/C.
Needs to be cleaned up a little, but I like it. Easy to see, doesn't block the center vent, and all switches work.
One thing...I had to trim the mounting screws for the bottom gauge as it WAS interfering with the center vent.
HTH

Rich_OOOO

thanks, this should be all i need. i know what you are talkin about with the 3 gauge pod, i have one of those from the FWD 4000 in my corrado, but i think i'll stick with this for now