4kq big brakes: What's out there? Can you use g60's? Thanks.
#4
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Switch to the 2 piece struts from an 80 or 90. Then you can run the camber adjustment bolts from those cars along with the G60s. I am running the 2 piece housings with porsche 944t calipers and euro A8 rotors on my 4ktq. Not installed yet but ill be sure to post some pics when I do. On my CGT race car I run Hawk blues and they don't seem too bad, but with race rubber they seem to get real close to fading if I'm not careful. Could be that I am braking too much though
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#5
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If I switch to 80/90 front tubes, can I still use my 4kq H&R springs and Bilstein Sport inserts? Thanks for the reply.
#7
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I have been told that you can still use 4kq strut inserts (I will let you know next week as I have 4kq bilstein sports), and I am sure you can use your lowering springs since many people use the 80/90 springs as a "rally" lifted setup on 4kqs. You will however need to use different ball joints. The G60s will fit under most 15inch wheels as thats what they came with from the factory... but some offsets might not work.
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#9
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Pads are the cheapest upgrade, and probably the most effective. I have used Hawk pads and been very happy with them. Make sure you select the right pad for your uses; they offer pretty good descriptions of the various compounds. I was very happy with the Blue pads, though they make some nasty residue that sticks like glue if it gets wet. On the BMW race car I'm running HT-10s, I think. Another effective pad without the dust issues.
If it's track only and you still have problems with fading, then I'd start engineering some ducts to cool the front rotors. Also, be sure to check the rotors for cracks after every event. Cruising slowly through the paddock after your run without applying the brakes will also prevent this somewhat. DO NOT buy cross drilled rotors for track use.
Only after trying a few pad compounds and running ducts would I worry about spending money re-engineering the brakes. Just because you can do something doesn't always mean you should.
If it's track only and you still have problems with fading, then I'd start engineering some ducts to cool the front rotors. Also, be sure to check the rotors for cracks after every event. Cruising slowly through the paddock after your run without applying the brakes will also prevent this somewhat. DO NOT buy cross drilled rotors for track use.
Only after trying a few pad compounds and running ducts would I worry about spending money re-engineering the brakes. Just because you can do something doesn't always mean you should.
#10
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I would like to eventually pick a set of these up as I have heard mixed reviews about the benifits of swapping to G60's.<ul><li><a href="http://www.rpiequipped.com/us/product_info.php?cPath=84_226_256&products_id= 755">RPI Equipped</a></li></ul>