4kq ebrake RR?

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Old 06-20-2006, 07:45 PM
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Default 4kq ebrake RR?

I got some fairly new ebrake cables from Chris Burgo at Carlisle. I came to the conclusion today that I need to get these things taken care of soon.
So how is the RR on these things to do? Pretty simple and self explanatory? Any tips or tricks? Ive never messed with them before...
Old 06-20-2006, 08:17 PM
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Default Hard part is adjusting them..

It's a pretty straight forward RR.You may have to cut the old ones out in sections at the rear if they are original. Make sure you see how they fit before you do it though..Did you get new rear calipers? If they aren't workin right, they will negate all of your hard work.
Old 06-20-2006, 09:15 PM
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pb blaster the adjuster nut at the lever.
Old 06-21-2006, 03:40 AM
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2nd on the rear calipers. Just had to replace mine in order to get my ebrake working again!
Old 06-21-2006, 04:17 AM
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Default My mechanic told me>>>

that he hated the whole project on my '86, labor intensive, and PITA to do.

'Course mine were "abused" by my trip back from carsile, and in none too good a shape before I got the car... and 'course that's why I paid to have someone else do this!
Old 06-21-2006, 05:48 AM
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Default Cables are different lengths..

Be aware that the two cables are supposed to be different lengths. Partly becasue they travel a slightly different path, and partly because the hook at the lever is staggered.

Hopefully, you can figure out from the part numbers, what side what cable goes on!

I'd put no faith as to the hook at the lever end being the right way around, as it can easily be flipped over.

I've also had to remove that 'hook' from the car with the cables still attached, as rust wouldn't let me get them off while still under the car.

And to do THAT, you have to have the adjusting nut loose. You *can* get at it without dropping the driveline or exhaust, with a deep socket, and a long extension. Hold the rod with soem visegrips, and make sure you've soaked it with your fave rust penatrating oil ahead of time. If it's stiff to undo, work the nut back and forth, squirting penatrating stuff on it as you go. IF you jsut try to undo it al;l the way, the rust WILL jam it up, and you'll probably snap the threaded rod.

And if you DO break that threaded adjsuting rod, not too much of a problem to remove the rod and mechanisim from the parking brake inside the car. Then you can weld another piece of (longer!) threaded rod back on and reassemble.

Take a look at the clips that hold the front end of the cable to the car floor. If they are gone, or all crusty, order new ones ahead of time. You'll be glad you did.. Nothing more fun that trying to use those stupid, crusty clips over again..

And 3rd on the "make sure you caliper arms move properly" before you even start on the cables..!

Have fun!
Old 06-21-2006, 07:12 AM
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Default I forgot about maybe needing calipers

New ones are pricey. If I can snag a job here soon though I could afford them, along with other goodies. The cables are marked so I know which is which. Looks like its another project that will have to wait.

Thanks for the reminder, I forgot about maybe needing new calipers
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