- GT Style -

Don't get disheartned, just a minor set back.

sic_fast

I had that same exact problem with my 4KQ. Every time I would come to a stop the idle would drop way down no matter what I did. It would almost die every time until one day it did and it took a good 15 minutes to get going again. I couldn't figure out what would cause this just by shifting the momentum of the car. I finally wound up replacing all of the vaccuum lines which helped a little but the revs were still dipping below idle when stopping, then just for fun I swapped fuel distributors with another car I have and pretso. I have no idea what could have caused this in the distributor but that's my story.

Katman

You check the codes the same for no start sort of the same way as checking the normal codes.
It's just that the car doesn't start before you pull the codes.

You crank for the perscribed 15 seconds or whatever, then stop cranking (But leave the ignition on).

Then pull the codes as normal.


On testing the flywheel senders:

Checking as per bently specs may or may not tell you much, if you have an intermittant problem.

(Remember, the Bently tests are for the 'ideal world', where a part is good or not. Not much help on flakey problems. Think about your past problems that you've figured out. How would the Bently tests have helped you finding them?)

Anyway.. THe flywheel sensors are basically coils of wire. So the test is the measure the coil's resistance. Their continuity, as it were.

So essentially, if the pickup (sensor) coil of wire resistance is even near what the Bently says, it's probably good AT THE TIME YOU TEST.

But who says the sensor stays good when you take it out for a run, and it heats up? What does Mr. Bently have to say about that? :-)

Typically in these situations, you have to use some common sense, intuition and luck to figure out weirdness!