B3 strut housing thread
#1
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B3 strut housing thread
Decided to make a new thread instead of jacking Justins more .
Ok, so these things bolt on with the usage of the correct ball joints (B3), correct? The 4kq calipers bolt up fine?
What are the gains/losses of going to the 2 piece design? I think it would be better, IMHO. But what are the negatives? NOTHING else has to be changed in order to get this to work but the ball joint, correct?
How much further out will the front wheels sit?
Ok, so these things bolt on with the usage of the correct ball joints (B3), correct? The 4kq calipers bolt up fine?
What are the gains/losses of going to the 2 piece design? I think it would be better, IMHO. But what are the negatives? NOTHING else has to be changed in order to get this to work but the ball joint, correct?
How much further out will the front wheels sit?
#2
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calipers are different.. 2 piece b3's use the wider carrier that can take g60's..
b3 ball joint needs to be used... i had a thread on this a while back and i got a response that only the drivers side axle fits just fine, but the passenger side needs the b3 outer cv joint, which fits right on the 4k shaft.. however, this was all referring to a 20v b3, not sure if its the same as a 10v b3..<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/4000/msgs/137685.phtml">my older thread</a></li></ul>
#3
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Camber, camber, camber.....
You can get special offset bolts that put a "kink" in the strut/knukle union, it'll give you some serious camber without camber plates on the top of the strut.
I also want to try an experiment, the rear ball joints from a 90 quattro are offset about 1" to 1½".
If these are put in the front so they shift the wheels forward 1", that could be good for 5+ deg of castor.
I have ½" offset aluminum subframe bushings, that give me 2.5° of castor, so a 1" shift should be good for 5°...
I also want to try an experiment, the rear ball joints from a 90 quattro are offset about 1" to 1½".
If these are put in the front so they shift the wheels forward 1", that could be good for 5+ deg of castor.
I have ½" offset aluminum subframe bushings, that give me 2.5° of castor, so a 1" shift should be good for 5°...
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you think those balljoints can take the stress when flipped around?...
i dont see why not, just wondering what more of your thoughts are on that, it sounds great
#5
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more on castor options..
i might be using the 2 piece struts and cast/forged (whatever they are) control arms from my 90 20v.. they have the 3bolt ball joints.. which are also offset, swapping them left to right, right to left would move them forward, but the cast arms arent perfectly triangular, the offset of the balljoint makes up for that, so im not sure if it would weaken the system or not
although, i suppose many control arms in the automotive world are "sickle shaped".. but they were designed to take the stress that way
although, i suppose many control arms in the automotive world are "sickle shaped".. but they were designed to take the stress that way
#6
like qezel said...
calipers/carriers are different. So you'd need rotors, calipers and carriers for the B3.
Other than that, I'm not sure of any other differences AT THE MOMENT.
I won't be able to give a tried and true tit for tat swap though since I'm molesting mine so I can put the 5 lug hubs in them, which will result in a different bearing than a typical 4000 and use the rear axles in the front.
There is a way to do it though, and I don't think it's all that difficult.
Other than that, I'm not sure of any other differences AT THE MOMENT.
I won't be able to give a tried and true tit for tat swap though since I'm molesting mine so I can put the 5 lug hubs in them, which will result in a different bearing than a typical 4000 and use the rear axles in the front.
There is a way to do it though, and I don't think it's all that difficult.
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