Can I get some imput from the CIS-E thinktank members??
08-12-2008, 07:20 PM
#1
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Can I get some imput from the CIS-E thinktank members??
Ive posted this a few months back,
86 KX motor wont rev past 3500 rpm
runs very rich
I pulled the air box off to access the metering arm, with the boot and vac lines attached. With the engine runnning I open the throtle to the point where the motor starts to bog down , and pull the metering plate (leaning out the air/fuel ratio),, the engine screams until the rev limiter kicks in
There are no vac leaks
engine bay is vey clean with good ground connections
the fuel dis. was replaced from a working JT
the FPR was replaced from a working JT
the wires to the FPR are good to the ECU plug
runs the same with or without the coolant temp
sensor conecte
runs the same with the o2 connected or not
Any ideas ???
Thanx
Michael
86 KX motor wont rev past 3500 rpm
runs very rich
I pulled the air box off to access the metering arm, with the boot and vac lines attached. With the engine runnning I open the throtle to the point where the motor starts to bog down , and pull the metering plate (leaning out the air/fuel ratio),, the engine screams until the rev limiter kicks in
There are no vac leaks
engine bay is vey clean with good ground connections
the fuel dis. was replaced from a working JT
the FPR was replaced from a working JT
the wires to the FPR are good to the ECU plug
runs the same with or without the coolant temp
sensor conecte
runs the same with the o2 connected or not
Any ideas ???
Thanx
Michael
08-12-2008, 08:09 PM
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hmm.. im no CIS expert but..
it sounds like your ECU is doing absolutely nothing and its just running a static mixture with no dynamic changes from the ECU..
i'd really check your grounds at the intake manifold and look for any breaks in those wires.. they're thin and get baked.
iirc.. when the idle switch is on.. the car is simply in an idle loop, and runs off the ISV.. when you go part throttle, the ECU reads the o2 and adjusts mixture for emissions and mileage... then the WOT switch goes to a rich mixture for power. perhaps your idle or WOT switch is stuck on, preventing the ECU from adjusting the mixture.. the WOT would make more sense as you're saying its running rich.. which would also make sense with the coolant temp switch not affecting anything (unplugged being full cold and rich).. because either way the system would be running an overly rich mixture.
bad ecu also a possibility?
sorry for the long post on something that may be completely wrong, but just a thought.. hth
i'd really check your grounds at the intake manifold and look for any breaks in those wires.. they're thin and get baked.
iirc.. when the idle switch is on.. the car is simply in an idle loop, and runs off the ISV.. when you go part throttle, the ECU reads the o2 and adjusts mixture for emissions and mileage... then the WOT switch goes to a rich mixture for power. perhaps your idle or WOT switch is stuck on, preventing the ECU from adjusting the mixture.. the WOT would make more sense as you're saying its running rich.. which would also make sense with the coolant temp switch not affecting anything (unplugged being full cold and rich).. because either way the system would be running an overly rich mixture.
bad ecu also a possibility?
sorry for the long post on something that may be completely wrong, but just a thought.. hth
08-13-2008, 08:40 AM
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Re: In desperation,,I ve tried the shotgun approach, ie. replacing everything electronic
#1 back to basics here check cam timing using mark on flywheel. #2 put milliamp meter in series with differential press reg ,do you get a reading? if no reading check for power on 1 pin of harness conector should have 12v if not check for power at ecu. if none of this gets you anywhere a fuel pressure check shoud be next. you can get cis-e so for out of adjustment that it cant self correct.if you need more info email me m.allen@embarqmail .com
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08-13-2008, 10:42 AM
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Ok.. A try.
Assuming that there are no massive leaks, and that the fuel pump is goign ok..
>runs the same with or without the coolant temp
sensor conecte
Ok, now that's odd. Either the ECU isn't powered (but that usually makes it run way lean, as no power to the DPR) or the mixture is WAY off. Something ususlly happens, for better or worse.
>runs the same with the o2 connected or not
Again, a bit odd. If the mixture *was* way off, and the ECU IS working, pullling the o2 sensor should make *some* difference too, as ECU goes from closed lop to open loop.
I'd make sure that the ECU IS getting power (Spare fuse is good, IAC hums or can be felt vibrating a bit, or DPR connector has voltage). If ECU has power, and DPR is doing something, undoing it's connector should make a difference (good or bad) too.
If that's all good, I'd next undo the o2 sensor (putting the ECU into open loop, with current through the DPR to default value (measure it too), and adjust the mixture to where it runs better. Then connect up the o2 sensor again, and see what the DPR curent goes to.
All an adventure..? (Or not!)
>runs the same with or without the coolant temp
sensor conecte
Ok, now that's odd. Either the ECU isn't powered (but that usually makes it run way lean, as no power to the DPR) or the mixture is WAY off. Something ususlly happens, for better or worse.
>runs the same with the o2 connected or not
Again, a bit odd. If the mixture *was* way off, and the ECU IS working, pullling the o2 sensor should make *some* difference too, as ECU goes from closed lop to open loop.
I'd make sure that the ECU IS getting power (Spare fuse is good, IAC hums or can be felt vibrating a bit, or DPR connector has voltage). If ECU has power, and DPR is doing something, undoing it's connector should make a difference (good or bad) too.
If that's all good, I'd next undo the o2 sensor (putting the ECU into open loop, with current through the DPR to default value (measure it too), and adjust the mixture to where it runs better. Then connect up the o2 sensor again, and see what the DPR curent goes to.
All an adventure..? (Or not!)
08-13-2008, 11:01 AM
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My 2 cents worth>>> try removing the little screens inside each>>>
fuel outlet coming from the FD. These get clogged, and the cars we all love are getting some age on them. I found that removing them was easiest with a open hemostat [using one half of it] to remove the screen. You need to really do some digging to get them out. When you inspect them once these are out, you will likely see that it's a wonder that any fuel a'tall gets by them. Mine were black and very dark brown on the distal ends. I'm betting that these started out life as stainless.
I had my FD out at the time I removed the screens. Also, make sure that the plunger inside the FD slides easily.
If you decide to clean that FD, do it out of the engine bay, have a couple of cans of carb cleaner, and clean the s^*t out of it. Reinstrall, bleed the air out, and maybe that will cure what ails your car.
good luck!
I had my FD out at the time I removed the screens. Also, make sure that the plunger inside the FD slides easily.
If you decide to clean that FD, do it out of the engine bay, have a couple of cans of carb cleaner, and clean the s^*t out of it. Reinstrall, bleed the air out, and maybe that will cure what ails your car.
good luck!