Tony Hoffman-4000Q

but if it's really bad you don't want it going into the engine. Generally they aren't that bad.

When it's refering to the auxiliary air valve is on the back of the Intake, IIRC. I have a Fox out back that I can take pics of if need be. Anyhow, it has a coil of flat spring steel in it much like a choke. When you turn the key on, it starts to heat up.---When it's cold, there is a passage that is completely open. As the coil gets warm, it slowly pushes a flap over the passage till it's completely closed off. This device basically bypasses the throttle plate, so it acts the same as you holding the throttle open.

As suggested, check the injectors and hoses. And, the Distributor is another good place to look. Aside from that, I'd let the car warm up, and adjust the base idle. IIRC, you disconnect and plug the vac retard side of the distributor if so equipped before adjusting. Basically, your car is supposed to idle just a bit high when cold(about 1000-1200 from my experience), and go down to the base as it warms up. It should also say under the hood on a sticker what the base timing and idle is. Oh, and it wouldn't hurt to check the timing first, unless you have already done that.

BTW, there are five CIS systems that I know of: K-Jetronic, KE-Jetronic, CIS-E, CIS-E3, and CIS-Motronic. Your car has the first generation of CIS, K-Jetronic. It does not use an O2 Sensor, which is what differs it from KE-Jetronic. Because of this, there is no ECU for the engine. it is a purely mechanical system.

Tony

SCarGo02

I got a timing gun, so I'll give that a check -- might bump the idle up a bit so it won't die on me and then go from there.

Also got myself a tach so I'll be able to properly set the idle once I check the timing, injectors/hoses, clean the TB and check the aux. air valve.

Thanks for all the tips/help! I'll report back once I've (hopefully) solved the issue.

boxerfan

This is just a guess. The best way to check would be to pulla a spark plug qickly and see if you smell loads of fuel or nearly nothing.

Since it has been like this since you acquired it then someone may have adjusted the CO to compensate for the intake path leaks.

Now that you have plugged the leaks it may be adjusted to run too rich. Is the CO adjustment open and accessible? If so you might want to try backing it off a little 1/16 of a turn at a time. the adjustment is very sensitive.

Write down each adjustment done so you can back track if necessary.

SCarGo02

...in the idle. I did bump the idle up just a bit - when it's warmed up in park it idles at about 1150-1200. Once it's put into drive the idle drops to about 950-1000 which is high enough to keep it from stumbling.

SCarGo02

...as well as afterward. Thanks for the thought though!

SCarGo02

...In park it's at 1160-1200 RPM and in drive it's now at 950-1000. Good enough for now and it's not dying. I think the engine has more problems than I originally though, so I don't think I'll mess with it too much until I figure out what my next plan of action is....

Thanks to everyone for their help so far!

boxerfan

But did it get worse or better after the leaks were repaired?

SCarGo02

Neither it still warmed up and died, beforehand and afterwards.