Spannerhead

Ho-kay. Timing belt, etc, replacement time. Blau wants $109 for the crank locking tool (2084). I'm not about to ante up that much for a single piece of metal.

From what I've read it's recommended that I use tools 2079 (wrench) and 2084 (locking tool). Is there any downside to using a regular socket and 1/2" drive 3' breaker bar on the front bolt, assuming I have the pulley locked in place with 2084 or an equivalent?

Also, does anybody have any other (read: cheaper) sources for this tool other than Blau? Anybody local I could borrow it from? I'm in central NC.

Thanks!

OWDLVR

A BFS (big f'in screwddriver) against a flywheel tooth and the tranny case.

then I use a 1/2" breaker bar with a 4-6foot pipe on it to remove the crank bolt.

Installation of crank bolt is via my impact gun.

-Dave

Spannerhead

So I'm assuming you remove the starter to get at the flywheel?

OWDLVR

I use the same window that you look through to set the timing. Either that or one below it...anyways, there is an open hole you can see with the flywheel teeth as you look down from the driver's side of the engine bay.

One person holds the screwdriver...the other loosens the nut.

Be careful though, you don't want to chip a tooth!

-Dave

Jeff Doble

Basically like this except for you're torquing the front crank bolt.

<img src="http://www.pbase.com/jeffdoble/image/30125003.jpg">

Katman

On the circumfrance of the flywheel are some 'large diamater holes'. (Maybe for balancing?). THese hole line up with some opening at the rear of the motor/front of transmission. You can drop a suitable sized bolt through the hole, and it will grab the hole in the flywheel.

Perhaps a bit better that the large screwdriver in the ring gear? In reality, I've done both together, as it just seems safer.

Very Big BTDT Tip: Don't forget to take out the bolt, before starting the motor!

I think that the proper tool IS better though, as you don't put all 400 ft/lbs of torque through the crankshaft. Remembering too, that the tightening torque is something like 330 fl/lb, if you done't have the fancy Audi wrench extender tool..

Next time I try this job, I'm going to get to try out the new 3/4 drive air gun!




From Phil Payne's website:

(Note 4)
"The value given (332 ft lb) here for the harmonic balancer (crankshaft pulley) bolt is the true value at the bolt. Other values apply if Audi's #2079 service tool is used. Alternative techniques have been documented by Audi - the 09/93 workshop manual for the ABY engine specifies 200Nm + 180° and the 10/93 Technical Service Bulletin for the ABY and AAN engines specifies 150Nm + 180°. The crankshaft should be locked with Audi's #2084 service tool - this can be bought from any dealership. Under no circumstances should the transmission (gears/brake) be used to hold the crank stationary."

Loads more good Audi Information:
http://www.isham-research.co.uk/quattro/<ul><li><a href="http://www.isham-research.co.uk/quattro/torque.html">Phil Payne: Torque settings</a></li></ul>

Spannerhead

Thanks! Great advice.

4ktq_smin

That's what I did, worked like a charm.

quattrocoach

That's what I did. They are allowed to borrow certain tools over the weekend as they need them.